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  • Barcelona, Spain

    Barcelona is one of our favorite cities in Europe and with good reason- it has something for everyone. From the best tapas restaurants to beach clubs and Irish pubs, Barcelona is always a good time. Some of our top Barcelona recommendations include a Korean BBQ spot (Seoul Nadri) and a Michelin Guide spot focused on fresh produce and seafood (PUR). We recommend staying in Eixample over Las Ramblas, and whiskey fans need to check out La Whiskeria.

    Traveling around? See our guide for other Mediterranean Port Cities.

    Don’t know what to pack? Here’s Jess’s Packing List.

    Top Restaurants

    PUR

    Overall: Recommend

    Service: 7.5/10    Atmosphere: 8.5/10    Food: 8/10    Wine List: 7.5/10

    This is a clean, sophisticated, and modern restaurant- boasting an open kitchen and a section of still-moving fish on ice. This Michelin Guide restaurant specializes in fresh seafood and produce, along with some excellent looking grilled meats. They typically also offer several vegetables, so we were able to try guisante lágrima (teardrop peas, the most precious peas in the world). We would suggest this restaurant for any age range, and they have bar seating overlooking the kitchen, which makes for a great date night. Online, it mentions that they have a separate bar, but it has been closed for years (as of 2024).

    Paco Meralgo

    Overall: Recommend

    Service: 7/10      Atmosphere: 7/10 (semi-private room)      Food: 7.5/10      Beverage Program: 6/10

    If you want a tapas dinner in Barcelona, Paco Meralgo is our top recommendation. They offer the traditional tapas, and an incredibly large menu- do make sure not to order too much fried food (it’s not super clear on the menu, so ask). We sat upstairs in the “attic” because we were with a larger party (which is part of why our ratings are probably lower than they could be). Reservations are a must, because this place gets busy.

    China Crown

    Overall: Recommend

    Service: 7/10     Atmosphere: 7.5/10      Food: 8.5/10      Beverage: 6/10

    Our entire family loved this Chinese spot nestled in the trendy Eixample neighborhood. Truthfully, we were surprised by this- we expected a quick and mediocre lunch to sate our Chinese food cravings- and we were greeted with amazing food and we almost didn’t leave. The peking duck was solid, but not our favorite dish0 we highly recommend the spring rolls, soups, entree proteins, and veggies. We even ordered seconds of the noodles. 

    Seoul Nadri

    Overall: Highly Recommend

    Service: 8/10     Atmosphere: 5/10 (but 10/10 for Korean BBQ)      Food: 9/10      Beverage: 4/10

    This is our favorite Korean BBQ spot in Europe. It leans younger, there are no backs on the chairs, and the beverage situation is tricky (they do have “frozen” beer and soju, so there’s something fun to try). We loved it and visited twice (almost 3 times) in 4 days. If you’ve never been to Korean BBQ, you typically sit in front of a grill and cook your own meats (they also can cook it in the back if you want to sit at a grill-less high top). Plus, you get “banchan” (veggie sides) to eat along with your meat (along with spicy dips, kimchi, lettuce wraps, etc). Must orders at Seoul Nadri: Galbi short rib, Beef Bulgogi, and the bibimbap (we like to order this to start). Reservations are encouraged (unless you go early). They are closed Monday/Tuesday.

    Top Bars

    Solange

    Overall: Highly Recommend

    Service: 8/10   Atmosphere: 9/10   Bar Program: 8.5/10

    Solange bar feels like stepping into a James Bond movie- and they have the elegant cocktails to match. We have returned to this bar every time we have visited Barcelona, and it always has great service and ambiance (while never being too busy, in our experience). In a city filled with top 50 bars that can get busy and a little overrated, this (non-top-50-bar) is our favorite high-end cocktail spot.

    La Whiskeria

    Overall: Recommend

    Service: 9.5/10    Atmosphere: 8/10    Bar Program: 2/10 or 9/10

    This is a place for whiskey lovers and (pretty much) whiskey lovers alone. So, what were us 2 gin lovers doing there? It was an accident, sort of. We walked in at opening because we happened to walk by and it looked nice. We ended up staying because the service was great and despite not liking whiskey, we really enjoyed ourselves (they do have like, 3 gins). It is comfortable, spacious, and feels high-end. If you love whiskey, this is your place. Ask for Liv at the bar.

    More Restaurants & Bars...

    Overall: Consider

    Service: 8/10     Atmosphere: 7.5/10       Food: 7/10        Beverage Program: 7/10

    This is a 1 Michelin star Asian-tapas fusion restaurant, and we have been 3 times (which, in general, should say good things about this place). The rating above is an average of the last 2, most recent visits. Our last visit wasn’t great, but part of that is because we went with a large group with many questions, and the food wasn’t our favorite (but the menu has changed by about 95% every visit). Typically, there is some sashimi, asian ribs, and several dishes that require a few creative steps. Dos Palillos has counter seating (and bar seating up front) directly surrounding the kitchen where the chefs meticulously prepare their dishes. We would consider visiting again, but 3 times might have been enough.

    Overall: Consider

    Service: 7/10     Atmosphere: 6/10      Food: 7/10        Beverage Program: 6/10

    Dos Pebrots is the more casual sister restaurant of the 1 Michelin star Dos Palillos. It is pretty standard tapas items, with a wood fire oven (making chef’s counter seats hot) creating beautiful fish and meat dishes of much larger portion size. Be careful not to order too much, as many of the dishes are huge. 

    Overall: Consider

    Service: 8.5/10     Atmosphere: 7/10       Food: 6.5/10      Wine List: 7/10

    This 1 Michelin star tapas restaurant requires reservations well in advance, and works in tasting menu format only. It has a small indoor space, and offers beautifully and intricately prepared dishes. Now, our experience may have been different (and they change their menu a lot), but we found the food to be bland, so we didn’t love it. The service, on the other hand, was excellent.

    Overall: Maybe

    Not rating

    This is a members-only bar/lounge that Barcelona bartenders go to after work for a late night out (hours are 10PM-5AM). There is a pool table, friendly bartenders (it is a bartender bar of course), and it’s a bit grungy. If you need a late night spot near Las Ramblas, but aren’t interested in nightclubs, this is a good option. You can become a member at the door easily, just ask. 

    Overall: SKIP

    Service: 7/10    Atmosphere: 6/10    Bar Program: 1/10

    Ranked #1 bar in the world in 2024, Sips was at the top of our to do list, so we made a reservation. Turns out, the reservation for bar seating is for their ‘cocktail tasting experience’- all fine. And their cocktail tasting experience included “tastes” of drinks that looked thoughtful… but were all mostly made with sherry, and almost no other alcohol. There was just an incredible amount of sherry. And, no, it was not a sherry tasting (even if it felt like it). On one side… we can see fans of gastronomic dining, dreaming of being in the movie “The Menu”, kind of liking this experience (but still, maybe not the drinks). It just wasn’t for us. After they told us to “drink the cocktail from the bowl like soup” for the third time, we were eyeing the exit.

    Overall: Consider

    Service: 5/10     Atmosphere: 6/10     Food: 6.5/10        Beverage Program: 6/10

    We don’t often mention value places in these reviews, but if you are looking for sushi in a value place, Shunka is your spot (and this kind of explains the high ratings elsewhere online). It might be worth a stop if you are staying in Barcelona for an extended time. Skip the yaki soba. Order a bottle of sake.

    Hotels

    There are good and not-so-good elements of El Palace. The good: It’s located in central Eixample, the main lobby bar is very comfortable, the rooms are very spacious, and they have some of the largest and nicest bathrooms we have seen in Barcelona. The not-so-good: The pool is tiny, freezing, and service there is confusing. The gym fits 3 people max. The elevators are old and tiny. The nice restaurant has strange hours (including being open 1 hour for lunch while we were there?). And the communication inside the hotel is off (it took 48 hours and almost 10 phone calls/concierge visits to get water).

    If you want to stay on the busier (more touristy, but also quite walkable) Las Ramblas, Sonder DO Plaça Real is a solid option. It’s certainly better for younger travelers (there was either no elevator or it was broken during our stay, so we took the stairs up and down). But it is also super walkable to many great bars and restaurants. This hotel has a bit more of a bed and breakfast feel, with less amenities, but it is nice waking up in the morning overlooking the square of Plaça Real.

    The Mandarin Oriental in Eixample was fully booked out during our last visit to Barcelona, but this is likely where we would stay next time.

    Tourism & Travel Notes

    It has been many years and many moons since we ventured down to the beaches of Barcelona. Some of the tips still stand: Make sure you get a table reservation at clubs, or are on a guest list (which you can find a way to get on by looking a club up online). The lines get long. & If you want paella at a restaurant on the beach, many of these spots will offer cooking classes and let you cook them yourselves. But a lot of the beach restaurants can be quite touristy, so just expect that. Enjoy!

    There is a lot of pickpocketing in Barcelona. And do not follow strangers down alleyways if they offer to show you a great shawarma spot!

    Notable Places Visited & Not Reviewed

    Belushi’s: Do. Not. Go. Even if it’s the only place playing the F1 race you want to watch, just find somewhere else. Cecconi’s: Connected to Soho House, this is not a bad spot if you’re craving some standard Italian food. Irish Pub Temple Bar (on Ferran): A fun, late night was had here. We recommend. James Joyce Pub: Quaint and friendly Irish pub in Eixample, can get a little warm on hot days. Tandem Cocktail Bar: Skip it. Two Schmucks: We had an average time, but would like to revisit.

    favorite moments

    China Crown peking duck
    China Crown peking duck
    Late nights at Solange
    Late nights at Solange
    Seoul Nadri
    Seoul Nadri
    Seoul Nadri
    Seoul Nadri
    La Whiskeria
    La Whiskeria
    Teardrop peas!
    Teardrop peas!
    Irish pub puppy
    Irish pub puppy
    3 for 3
    3 for 3
    Two Schmucks
    Two Schmucks
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  • Mediterranean Cruise Stops

    It is hard to beat a summer on the Mediterranean. Whether you are traveling by land or by sea, here are some of the best restaurants  that Mediterranean port cities have to offer. Some of our top recommendations include Da i Gemelli in Portofino, Italy and Il Camino in Mallorca, Spain. Barcelona is excluded from this guide, as it deserves its own complete guide.

    View the full Barcelona Guide here.

    For travel packing recommendations, check out Jess’s Packing List.

    Mallorca

    El Camino

    Overall: Highly Recommend

    Service: 7.5/10    Atmosphere: 8/10    Food: 8/10    Wine List: 6/10

    This delicious tapas restaurant is in the heart of old town Palma. There are tons of fresh daily specials, as well as a standard menu including pan con tomate and the like (do not miss out on the jamon iberico- possibly the best we have ever had!) For lovers of Sabor in London, El Camino in Mallorca is a must-visit. It is modern, trendy, lively, and the food is delicious. El Camino has two main seating options- a large and long bar overlooking the kitchen, plus high-top tables in the back. Reservations are strongly encouraged (and we would almost say required). If you have one meal in Mallorca- make it El Camino, you won’t be disappointed.

    There is a charming square less than a 2 minute walk from El Camino, which has several good bars for a drink on a beautiful day. We tried to go to Gibson Bar, but it was too busy and we ended up at Bar Nicolás next door. We would recommend going to this spot for drinks before a great lunch at El Camino.

    Cannes

    La Guérite

    Overall: Highly Consider

    Service: 6.5/10     Atmosphere: 8.5/10     Food: 7.5/10     Wine List: 7.5/10

    Ignore the bad google reviews, this place is worth a visit. El Guérite mixes a beach club atmosphere (live music eventually turns into a DJ around 3), with a charming and classy space that is suitable for older age ranges (which we recommend going earlier). Reservations are a must (send in a request through Seven Rooms and they will email you back). Don’t wear nice heels- the floor is sand- but do bring a bathing suit if you want to venture down their private beach and take the stairs down to the (icy!) water. The food is also good- the crudité was humongous, and our favorite item on the menu was the signature La Guérite pasta (excellent for cheese lovers).

    Getting there is an adventure- it is located on it’s own island, a 5-10 minute boat ride from Porto Canto, which is right in Cannes (but often on the other side of town from where cruise ships dock). You can arrive in your own small boat, alternatively the restaurant offers transportation in their speed dingies after you make a reservation, and they recommend you arrive at the port 15 minutes before your reservation time.

    Monte Carlo

    It is very important to know that there are an extremely limited number of taxis in Monte Carlo, and the city is on a steep hill. It takes about 45 minutes to walk uphill from the part of port closest to town, up the hill to the “central” area near the casino. 

    Uber/Lyft/etc is not allowed to pick you up in Monte Carlo. However, if you are arriving from an outside city (such as Cannes, for example), Uber is allowed to drop you off.

    Taxis generally need to be called 30 minutes before you need them, but sometimes restaurants can call them in quicker (here is the official government taxi company).

    This casino used to be a nice and elegant place to get a pre-dinner cocktail, but they have since removed the bar seats, added a minimal entrance fee for “tickets”, and dropped the once heavily enforced dress code. It is packed, there are ripped jeans and flip flops, and there is almost no seating. Since times have changed, we will skip this place moving forward.

    Overall: Probably Skip

    Not rating

    Buddha Bar used to be really cool 5+ years ago, and you can feel it. It’s a bit outdated and the food is just okay, but on a nice night it does offer a great outdoor terrace for hookah or a bottle of wine. We may or may not go back, but there are probably better places. If you go, do dress for a night on the town.

    Portofino

    Da i Gemelli

    Overall: Highly Recommend

    Service: 8/10     Atmosphere: 6.5/10     Food: 8/10     Wine List: 7.5/10

    Portofino is not our favorite spot because it can get so packed with crowds of tourists (hence part of the atmosphere rating). However, it is absolutely worth getting off the boat to visit Da i Gemelli, an Italian restaurant that has been run for 8 generations and is now in the hands of the Gemelli twin brothers, Paolo and Matteo. It is right in the center of town, and the outdoor seating can get a bit sunny, but it is worth booking a reservation via email ([email protected]), and securing your spot for an outstanding lunch. The seafood is fresh, and we highly recommend asking for the price of a fish and ordering it baked with olive oil and potatoes. Skip mamma’s tomato pasta (sorry!) and make sure to get some fresh seafood apps (but be careful not to order too large of portions! ask for smaller ones). They also have a full wine list, with some good options.

    Villefranche-sur-Mer

    Olivula

    Overall: Recommend

    Service: 8/10     Atmosphere: 7/10     Food: 8/10     Wine List: 6.5/10

    This is the perfect spot for lunch in Villefranche, and the google ratings do not lie- this place is good. We walked up that morning to secure a reservation for later that afternoon, but we would probably recommend making a reservation ahead of time (though it did not get busy on the Sunday we were there). This nice restaurant is located along a row of spots by the harbor, and it offers some excellent French-Italian cuisine with fresh ingredients. The risottos are the best we have ever had. 

    Eliott’n’Bobbie’s

    Overall: Highly Recommend

    Not rating

    This is a very casual spot in the center of town offering burgers, chicken tenders, and nachos. Do not get the nachos. H0wever, the chicken tenders are outstanding, crispy, delicious, uniquely coated, and simply… great. We highly recommend ordering some chicken tenders as a snack (with some dry rosé wine), or taking a to-go order of tons of these little guys back to your boat. They’re even good room temp. We did both of these things and did not regret either. 

    Antibes

    Mamo Michelangelo

    Overall: Consider

    Service: NA     Atmosphere: 8/10     Food: 7/10     Wine List: 8.5/10

    This is the place to see and be seen, and the celebrity photos lining the wall certainly bolster that reputation. You can probably tell from the name that this is an Italian restaurant, and it has the stone-lined walls of the restaurant give that ambiance. We would recommend dinner for a more “sceney” vibe than lunch, and our service wasn’t great the time we went- but we have heard that it is typically much better (so we though it unfair to rate). They brought out a truffle pizza, which was delicious, but our favorite item on the menu actually turned out to be the side of penne all’arrabbiata. 

    Louroc

    Overall: Consider

    Service: 6/10     Atmosphere: 9.5/10     Food: 7.5/10     Wine List: 8.5/10

    This one-star Michelin restaurant has the attitude of a one-star Michelin restaurant, and the service ranged from a 10 to a 2, so we averaged it out at 6. However, this is probably one of the most luxurious and romantic restaurants in France. The view is outstanding, overlooking the ocean, the lighting is dim but there is no need to turn on a phone flash light, the ceilings are high, and the decorations are ornate. This all makes sense because Eden Roc is one of the nicest hotels in the world. We were with a large party, so we had to do a set menu, which was good overall (with the exception of the tiny cheese plate). You go here for the “experience” (we have heard that they make an outstanding rice dish at lunch though, so do keep an eye out for that).

    favorite moments

    El Camino in Mallorca
    El Camino in Mallorca
    Gio and Jess's sister on boat #1
    Gio and Jess's sister on boat #1
    El Guerite crudite
    El Guerite crudite
    El Guerite fruit plate
    El Guerite fruit plate
    Gio and Jess's dad swimming at El Geurite
    Gio and Jess's dad swimming at El Geurite
    Louroc at Eden Roc view
    Louroc at Eden Roc view
    The ship
    The ship
    Breakfast on ship
    Breakfast on ship
    Quaint streets of Antibes- would go back!
    Quaint streets of Antibes- would go back!
    Langostines at Da i Gemelli in Portofino
    Langostines at Da i Gemelli in Portofino
    Da i Gemelli portofino
    Da i Gemelli portofino
    Jess and her sister on boat #1
    Jess and her sister on boat #1
    Secret Trivia on boat #1 was a success
    Secret Trivia on boat #1 was a success
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  • Smaller Cities of Germany

    Here is our guide to some of the best restaurants and the best bars in three of the smaller cities of Germany, including: Cologne, Dusseldorf, and Frankfurt. Out of these cities in Germany, Frankfurt has our favorite restaurant- Restaurant Lohinger. Also, we think the Frankfurt airport is the best airport in Europe. While Frankfurt may not necessarily be a “smaller” city, we haven’t visited enough times for a complete travel guide (yet).

    Traveling around Europe? Check out our Paris Guide.

    Don’t know what to pack? Here’s Jess’s Packing List.

    Top Restaurants

    Restaurant Lohinger

    Overall: Highly Recommend

    Service: 8.5/10    Atmosphere: 8.5/10    Food: 9/10    Beverage Program: 8/10

    After our first visit, this Austrian restaurant immediately became one of our top restaurants in Europe- and this is certainly our favorite restaurant in Germany. It is comfortable, cool, modern, and an excellent lunch stop. We highly recommend ordering the schnitzel- which is their prized dish- and the potato salad that comes with it is simple, clean and the best we have ever tasted. Additionally, the tomato pasta was phenomenal. There are a few menu items with Asian inspiration- including a starter salad with Matsuhisa dressing (for Nobu fans, you should know that this dressing is legit). 

    Gaffel Am Dom

    Overall: Recommend

    Service: 7/10   Atmosphere: 8/10    Food: 7/10    Beverage: NA

    Our top recommendation for a traditional brauhaus (brew house) in Cologne is this centrally located spot. The ceilings are high, the traditional tiny Kolsh beers are refilled endlessly (and kept track of by writing on coasters), and it is a more comfortable spot than many of the cramped brauhauses in the area. We enjoyed our currywurst!

    Top Bars

    Overall: Highly Recommend

    There is a cozy road in downtown Düsseldorf offering some of our favorite pubs in the world! Here are our recommendations: At Sutton’s Irish Pub ask for Mervin, skip Bei Fatty’s, at O’Reileys ask for Simon (who looks and speaks like he stepped out of Peaky Blinders), at McLaughlins ask for Danny. Then, at the end of your night, order a Pizza Diavola from Matteo’s, which is delicious and open until 4am. 

    More Restaurants & Bars...

    Overall: Consider

    Service: 7/10   Atmosphere: 6/10   Food: 7/10      Beverage Program: 6.5/10

    The Duchy is a hotel restaurant that boasts an impressive “fresh raw seafood” counter (with a tiny menu, ran by a tiny and talented chef). We highly recommend trying some of these creative dishes, and maybe skipping some of the menu standards.

    Overall: Consider

    Service: 6.5/10   Atmosphere: 6/10   Food: 6.5/10      Beverage Program: 3/10

    This cute and quaint sushi restaurant seems very good for sushi in Cologne, but compared to sushi restaurants worldwide, it’s nothing all too special. There is no sushi counter, and they only serve hot sake. However, it should be noted that the day we went the toro was amazing and the tuna clearly came in fresh that day. We would consider going back if we returned to Cologne.

    Overall: Consider

    Service: 6/10   Atmosphere: 6/10   Food: 6/10    Wine List: 8/10

    Go to this Italian restaurant for the wine list, which is the best we saw in our time in Germany. We went for lunch, and while we did not like the pastas (so sweet), we did see some locals ordering fresh fish and veggies, so we switched to that instead and enjoyed it.

    Overall: Consider

    Service: 6/10    Atmosphere: 6.5/10    Food: 7.5     Beverage Program: 5/10

    We enjoyed the sushi at this spot in Düsseldorf’s Japanese district, but most people seemed to go for the ramen, which we didn’t try but would suggest ramen lovers try out.

    Hotels

    The Steigenberger Frankfurter Hof is a historical hotel in a great, central area of Frankfurt. However, the hotel is really old (including tiny, scary elevators that shake) and it is boiling hot (the AC in the rooms do not work so we had to sleep with our balcony doors open). Next time, we would stay at the Sofitel, which some businessmen in our hotel recommended instead.

    Another older hotel in Germany, Excelsior Hotel Ernst is centrally located directly across from Cologne’s cathedral. This appeared to be the best hotel in Cologne, so we would recommend it. We also really enjoyed the hotel bar, which had a bit of a classic boat/ boys club feel, plus a good club sandwich. There is apparently a good sushi restaurant inside the hotel, but it was closed during our visit.

    We stayed at the Breidenbacher Hof Düsseldorf, and it was in a great, centrally located spot that we really did enjoy (specifically because it is walkable to the street with all the Irish pubs!) The gym was small but had the basics, and the pool was large but in a very heated space. The rooms were more modern and spacious than many of the other spots in Germany, the beds were very comfortable, and we would stay there again if we returned to Dusseldorf.

    Tourism & Travel Notes

    Carnival in Cologne is a quirky, costume-clad which opens at 11 minutes past 11 on the 11th of the 11th month November. It is wacky, and locals dress up for literal months at a time in traditional costume, and they are incredibly committed to it. If you go to Cologne during this time of year (and many other times where carnival is resumed), you will likely find yourself very confused. But also, finding opportunity for a lot of fun.

    Starting in November and ending early January, the winter markets in Germany are absolutely worth a visit. There is cheese, there is mulled wine (which is arguably disgusting), there are carols, and performers, and ice skating, and joy! We recommend it.

    Frankfurt airport officially gets the designation of our favorite airport in Europe. It is efficient, it is easy, and the food options inside of KLM’s main terminal are good (the small little circle immediately upon entry is the place to be. The bar is nice and there is an Italian spot with fabulous breakfast paninis and Aperol Spritz- this is where Jess spent the morning of her 31st birthday! If you have to spend it in an aiprort, Frankfurt is not bad at all.)

    Notable Places Visited & Not Reviewed

    Frankfurt– Burbank, Via Monte, and The Sekai: We were looking forward to these restaurants, but had to cancel our reservations due to jetlag. Let us know how they are! Oscar’s: Surprisingly fresh salads, but an average hotel restaurant vibe. Zukaya: Dark and moody. The service was great and the food was pretty good despite some weird menu items (we were too jetlagged to truly enjoy). Cologne– Brauhaus Fruh Am Dom- Cramped and crowded, skip. Hans Stube- Average food, kind of uppity ambiance, decent wine list. Düsseldorf– 20 Restobar– Skip, not very good food. Concept Reisling– Fine wine bar in market for a sip of local stuff, but not worth going out of your way for. Mayur India– Skip, curry very sweet.

    favorite moments

    Restaurant Lohinger in Frankfurt- the best
    Restaurant Lohinger in Frankfurt- the best
    Sunrise in Frankfurt
    Sunrise in Frankfurt
    Frankfurt airport is wildly impressive
    Frankfurt airport is wildly impressive
    Winter market in Cologne
    Winter market in Cologne
    Fresh raclette at winter market in cologne
    Fresh raclette at winter market in cologne
    Peaky Blinders!
    Peaky Blinders!
    Gio enjoying Kolsch Gaffel Am Dom
    Gio enjoying Kolsch Gaffel Am Dom
    Currywurst at Gaffel Am Dom
    Currywurst at Gaffel Am Dom
    Mulled wine at winter market in Cologne
    Mulled wine at winter market in Cologne
    Restaurant Lohinger in Frankfurt- the best
    Restaurant Lohinger in Frankfurt- the best
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  • Cotswolds & Bath, England

    The Cotswolds are having a well-deserved “moment”, and if you have done research on the Cotswolds, you understand just how spread out the area is. Our favorite spot is Castle Combe, a tiny town with two pubs and one castle/hotel The Manor House- which we highly recommend. A quick 30 minute drive from The Manor House is the larger city of Bath- home to Roman spas and infamous for hen parties- but also host to one of our favorite bars in the UK: The Dark Horse.

    On a UK tour? Check out our very complete London Guide.

    Don’t know what to pack? Here’s Jess’s Packing List.

    Top Restaurants

    Castle Inn Pub

    Overall: Highly Recommend

    Service: 8/10    Atmosphere: 7.5/10    Food: 9/10    Beverage Program: 4/10

    Maybe we are biased because Jess had the best dish of her life in this tiny pub in the middle of a very romantic and quaint town (it was the seasonal homity pie… think cheese and leeks and fresh garden peas in a perfectly buttery flaky crust.) This restaurant is part of The Manor House, located just down the cobblestone road and in the corner of town. Reservations are required (yes, for a pub, but it’s brilliant), and you’ll be surprised to find that the ambiance is much more up-and-coming-small-restaurant than that of your traditional pub. The wines are limited, but it’s the food that counts here.

    The Scallop Shell

    Overall: Highly Consider

    Service: 7/10    Atmosphere: 7/10    Food: 7/10    Wine: 6/10

    Before you see the score and feel like there’s a chance you could get away with skipping this place, don’t (instead, make a reservation for the downstairs section). Here’s why: the fish and chips are amazing, airy, and crispy- possibly the best we’ve ever had. Plus, as much as we don’t want to admit it… we didn’t love the food in Bath. Scallop Shell is the best bet. And, somehow, despite not loving the food scene, we still loved Bath and we would go back in a heartbeat. The city is charming, the spas and bath waters do seem to have a healing charm, and (here’s the real reason) the bar scene is incredible.

    Friend’s Takeaway

    Overall: Highly Consider

    Service: 9/10    Atmosphere: 2/10    Food: 8/10   

    We never thought we would put a to-go shawarma spot in our ‘Top Restaurant’ list, however Friend’s deserved it. A year after our trip to Bath, we still remembered these delicious gyros and the incredibly sweet service of one of our favorite late-night shawarma spots in the world. Go to Dark Horse bar, then go here after.

    Top Bars

    The Dark Horse

    Overall: Highly Recommend

    Service: 10/10    Atmosphere: 8/10    Bar Program: 9/10

    There is no explanation for why we did not have this on our travel plans in the first place. Maybe the photos made it look too— well— dark. But being on the World’s Best Bars radar, we should have known better. Turns out, we found this place by wandering around the cobblestone roads, seeing a group of people being turned away by a bouncer outside of a seemingly unmarked door, and then asking what the deal was. Reservations are required, but we were able to make one for later that night, which turned out to be the right call. The Dark Horse is one of our favorite bars in the UK, and it would rival almost any bar in London (other than The Connaught). We went two nights in a row. Trust us, it’s worth a stop. Note: They do not take bar seat reservations unless you ask very nicely.

    Full Glass Bar

    Overall: Highly Consider

    Service: 9.5/10   Atmosphere: 10/10   Bar Program: 9.5/10

    Located in The Manor House, this small and cozy bar is basically like having your own personal bartending staff in your living room (if your living room had an antique fireplace, oak paneling, leather-bound books, and plush seating). For history buffs: this is where Margaret Thatcher sat and wrote her memoirs. For cocktail buffs: they offer over 100 types of gin. For us: There is almost nothing wrong with this place unless, say, you hate gin and relaxing environments. If we built a house right now, we would have a room modeled after this. Also, this place can be fun, depending on the hotel’s guests. We had all the CFO’s of the UK’s top football teams stop by for a nightcap on their first night in, and many great stories were shared. It was one of our top nights ever. (They usually close when the last guest goes to bed.)

    More Restaurants & Bars...

    Overall: Consider

    Service: 6/10    Atmosphere: 5.5/10    Food: 7/10    Wine List: 7/10

    This 6-year-running Michelin star restaurant is located inside The Manor House in Castle Combe, and if you are in Castle Combe you should 100% go. On the greater scale of worldwide Michelin restaurants, this would not make our top 20. Part of this is our fault (honestly, we spent quite a bit too long sampling the 100+ gins the hotel has to offer in their cozy bar just down the hall before we made our way to the meal). This is also partly because it’s similar to many other Michelin-starred joints: medallions of meat, cheese cart at the end, the whole shebang. The restaurant was mostly empty, and there was no music. However, there were very memorable dishes… everything with butter (the UK and Ireland have some of the best), so if you are a butter fan, this is certainly up your alley (seaweed butter on the fish dish, a beautifully buttered bread and pastry, etc.)

    Overall: Worth A Visit

    Not rating

    When it comes to Bath, there are drinking holes down nearly every alley in the center of town. A favorite walk-in bar of ours is The Bath Distillery Gin Bar (formerly Canary Gin Bar), which offers unique gins in a slightly crowded bar with a slightly mature crowd. Weekends in Bath can be quite filled with Hen and Stag parties, and this place generally stays away from that.

    Overall: Recommend

    Service: 7/10     Atmosphere: 5.5/10    Food: 6.5/10   Beverage Program: 6.5/10

    It’s a little hard to give good ratings to an afternoon tea, because we are not big dessert people… and, as much as we try, we are not huge tea drinkers. That being said: The afternoon tea service at The Royal Crescent is very likely the best tea service in Bath. And the finger sandwiches were very good. We do wish the room was a little livelier and that the view was better (it’s just a back garden in the hotel), but we would still recommend doing this in Bath. It’s something interesting to do.

    Overall: Recommend (but not for everyone)

    Not rating

    Outside The Manor House’s Castle Inn Pub, there is only one other pub in Castle Combe. It is called The White Hart and it is certainly worth the short walk to explore this cozy drinking hole. However, fair warning— the owners are a lovely married couple. They express their feelings very directly through their incredibly dry sense of humor. We liked it. It’s not for everyone. They pour chili on chips here and it’s delicious.

    Hotels

    If you are going to Bath, we recommend staying at The Gainsborough Hotel. It is in a central location, and the spa is one of the few locations to provide direct access to the infamous thermal “bath” waters. The spa is a reason to stay at the hotel- it offers a stunning pool and a variety of “treatment” rooms with red light therapy, shaved ice, saunas, steam rooms, and more. The bar is small but comfortable. The whole hotel kind of smells like the spa.

    Our first time in the Cotswolds, we stayed in the village of Castle Combe at the romantic castle hotel The Manor House. This memorable castle has all the ‘quaint-ness’ of a bed and breakfast mixed with the perks of a high-end hotel. The property feels a bit like stepping into a fairy tale. They offer a Michelin-starred restaurant, a nearby gastronomic-focused pub, golfing, tea, clay pigeon shooting, and a fully stocked (gin focused) bar that stays open “‘til the last guest goes to sleep.” This is one of the most memorable places we have ever stayed, we have sent family members there, and we highly recommend it.

    The Vineyard is Napa vitner Peter Michael’s property in Newbury, a town in the Cotswolds. The nearby town was a little rough around the edges… and we left early, which probably says enough. 

    The next time we go to the Cotswolds, we will likely just return to The Manor House… however, if you want more options: Hampshire’s Four Seasons is just outside of central London (we were scared away a bit by how kid-centric the property is). We’ve also heard good things about the Soho Farmhouse in Oxfordshire (which you can book through the Soho Friends option if you’re not a Soho House member).

    The most famous hotel in Bath is The Royal Crescent, which we might consider more seriously next time (though we did like The Gainsborough).

    Tourism & Travel Notes

    On our first Cotswolds trip, we also stopped by Cardiff in Wales (about an hour drive from The Manor House). We stayed at The Parkgate Hotel, which was very business-y but seemed to be the best option in the downtown area. We didn’t stay long enough to merit a full post for Wales (and we’re likely going to Wales next year, so we can do a full post then), but we do have two great recommendations: Best Bar- The Dead Canary (Aka Here Be Dragons), Best Restaurant- Purple Poppadom (get an Uber because it’s not in the best area, but this family-owned Indian joint makes some of the best curries we’ve had).

    It takes about 1.5 hours to train from Paddington Station in London to Bath. And it’s about a 30 minute drive from Bath to The Manor House in Castle Combe. We recommend spending time in both spots. Uber is available, and your hotel can arrange private transportation if you prefer.

    Our first visit, we took this route:

    Paddington (London) -> Cardiff -> Castle Combe -> Bath -> Paddington (London)

    From London, we took a 2-hour train from Paddington Station to Cardiff (a five-minute walk from the city center). It only took about an hour to get to the Cotswolds from Cardiff— we hired a driver (Raj was great. He drives a roomy Mercedes V class. Here is his email: [email protected]). Then, we took another driver (this time through Nexus Transportation) for the 30-minute drive to Bath. We trained 1.5 hours back to London. The trains were comfortable & timely.

    Notable Places Visited & Not Reviewed

    Bath: Amarone: Randomly had some good wines but the food wasn’t memorable. The Chequers (Sunday Roast): Really tight quarters and the kid next to us had the stomach flu, so it wasn’t a great time.The Mint Room: Out of the way and average Indian food.  Noya’s Kitchen: Uncomfortable seating, and limited drink and food menus that were different from online. Newbury (Cotswolds): We’d skip Newbury. Castle Combe (Costwolds): We reviewed everything! Told you it was tiny 🙂

    favorite moments

    The Manor House
    The Manor House
    Streets of Castle Combe
    Streets of Castle Combe
    Jess's favorite dish of all time- Homity Pie from Castle Inn Pub
    Jess's favorite dish of all time- Homity Pie from Castle Inn Pub
    Gio very very happy at the bar at The Manor House
    Gio very very happy at the bar at The Manor House
    Bybrook dish with seaweed butter
    Bybrook dish with seaweed butter
    The Scallop Shell's fish and chips
    The Scallop Shell's fish and chips
    Irish coffee in the streets of Bath
    Irish coffee in the streets of Bath
    Screen Shot 2024-05-08 at 1.01.38 PM
    The Dark Horse bar- one of our favorites
    The Dark Horse bar- one of our favorites
    Screen Shot 2024-05-08 at 1.02.34 PM
    Such a big smiler, that guy
    Such a big smiler, that guy
    The Royal Crescent tea
    The Royal Crescent tea
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  • Venice & Florence, Italy

    Florence and Venice are two of the pillars of Italian tourism, and they have a lot to offer everyone. Here are some of our favorite bars, hotels, and restaurants in the two cities, as well as a few pieces of travel advice for getting around Venice.

    Traveling around the Mediterranean? Check out our Guide to Mediterranean Port Cities.

    Don’t know what to pack? Here’s Jess’s Packing List.

    Top Restaurants

    Osteria Enoteca San Marco

    Overall: Highly Recommend

    Service: 9/10     Atmosphere: 7/10      Food: 8/10      Beverage Program: 8.5/10

    If you are going to Venice for one meal- eat here. Located on an alley called Calle Frezzaria (they are number 1610), this cozy local somewhat modern trattoria is a triple theat- with good wine, good food, and good service. Matteo and Fabio own and run this place, and on our last trip to Venice both of our families went multiple times. If there is a downside, it is that the AC is not super consistent, and there can be mosquitos (but both of these things can happen all around Venice… and even after knowing this- we still went back the next day). The menu changes, but last time we loved the veal entree and the pigeon appetizer (we’re not big fans of pigeon, but dipping the homemade bread in the pigeon sauce was our favorite bite).

    Trattoria Canonica

    Overall: Recommend

    Service: 5/10 (quickly an 8 if you order good wine)   Atmosphere: 3/10    Food: 6.5/10    Wine List: 9.5/10

    Do not be thrown off by the absolutely brutal google reviews- go here for the wine list. It is about 50 steps from San Marco square. It is touristy. But they have a literal hidden wine vault across the bridge (a family member may offer to show you) with practically a wall of Masseto and much more. Even before seeing that, we knew they had one of the best wine lists we have ever seen (selection 9/10 and value 10/10). Go in the afternoon for a nice bottle of wine, and don’t expect a lot other than that… but do enjoy yourself. If you are hungry, order the lasagna (we upped the food an entire point just because it was so good).

    La Giostra

    Overall: Highly Recommend

    Service: 8/10     Atmosphere: 7.5/10      Food: 8/10      Beverage Program: 7.5/10

    If you have one dinner in Florence- eat here. Owner Saldano is a quirky prince with the most amount of jewelry you will ever see on a person, and chatting with him makes this restaurant a must-visit every time we are in Florence. The food can also be phenomenal. Jess loves the boar ragu. Reservations are required. 

    Trattoria 13 Gobi

    Overall: Recommend

    Service: 7/10     Atmosphere: 7/10    Food: 8/10    Wine List: 8/10

    Located in central Florence, Gobi is the best place to get angel hair pasta with red sauce (a family favorite). This rustic, underground setting provides a comfortable and traditional atmosphere, and the wine list is great. Reservations are essential.

    More Restaurants & Bars...

    Overall: Recommend

    Service: 9/10     Atmosphere: 9.5/10      Food: 6.5/10    Wine List: 8/10

    The restaurant at the Aman Hotel is as beautiful as you would expect, and the service also meets the high-end hotel’s luxury standards (George Clooney got married at this property). While the food fell short, we would still recommend a dinner at the restaurant (it usually takes a lot for us to say that, but it’s easy to say here). Get dropped by a water taxi (they’ll call a return for you) and enjoy the stunning high ceilings, paintings, and design. If possible, go to the equally beautiful bar for a nightcap.

    Overall: Maybe

    Not rating

    This is a small, rustic and very famous trattoria, and it has been pumping out Italian food for decades. Da Ivo is a Del Dotto family favorite, so we are not going to rank it… but Jess doesn’t love it. If you do go, make sure to book a reservation well in advance, and do not go with a group larger than 4 (even if there is a bigger table available). Be cautious of them trying to sell you a different wine than the one you ordered, and don’t order the clams (the steak however, was very good). The bathrooms are child-sized, so hold it.

    Overall: Recommend

    Service: 8/10     Atmosphere: 9/10    Food: 7.5/10    Wine List: 9/10

    We really loved our dinner at Quandri. Overlooking San Marco square (after all the tourists are gone), this is one of the most romantic spots in Venice. We had an excellent server, great wine, and great company in a stunning setting. The food is modern Michelin-y without being too pretentious. If you’re on the edge about this, go.

    We highly recommend spending an afternoon with an aperol spritz in San Marco square. There are tons of restaurants to choose from, almost none of which have great food, but they do provide a perfect location for people watching and enjoying a nice day outdoors. Be careful of the birds, they will steal food right out of your hand.

    Hotels

    The only hotel we’ve stayed at in Venice recently was Hotel Danieli, which we likely won’t return to. The concierge service was frustrating (leading us to almost miss our flight because they gave the boat we ordered to someone else), and there are many annoying tour groups in the lobby (so large groups of tourists can take pictures, while blocking the door so hotel guests have a hard time getting in and out). The bar is okay and the bartenders are nice, and the rooms are relatively comfortable. It is a busy hotel. Rooftop breakfast may be a plus for some.

    A bit outside of the main part of Florence (a 15 minute walk), The Four Seasons Firenze is currently our top hotel to stay at in Florence. The property is huge, the gym is spacious, and the rooms have high ceilings and great bathrooms. While we would recommend skipping the Michelin restaurant, we highly recommend spending afternoons at the bar here, as it is one of our favorite spots. There are also several bars and restaurants walkable (such as La Giostra), that make this semi-far away location worth it.

    Venice: After having dinner at the Aman hotel, it would certainly be the first place we would look if we return to Venice. The bar is stunning and remains open late for hotel guests. The grounds are beautiful. It is very high-end and in a great location slightly outside the main tourist hub, with helpful concierges (that gave us a tour).

    Tourism & Travel Notes

    You may have noticed that we have not posted much content on Florence here, and that is because we have not been in a few years. We do not want to provide information that is out of date. Still, we have been many MANY times, and we get a lot of requests for Florence tips- so we have included our top 2 restaurants and favorite hotel, because friends and family have visited more recently and they ensure us our favorites are still great.

    Getting from the airport to Venice requires an additional boat. We highly recommend booking a private transfer service online or through your hotel. A private driver will pick you up at the terminal and drive you about 5 minutes to the water boat area (there is often a long line for water taxis that you can cut by getting private transfer).

    If you have any health conditions at all (that may lead to you needing a visit to the hospital) do not go to Venice. As you can imagine, a city underwater does not have great infrastructure for transporting people quickly. Getting an ‘ambulance boat’ to Hotel Danieli took over 40 minutes. Plan accordingly.

    Notable Places Visited & Not Reviewed

    Venice: Al Covo: We personally did not enjoy it. Harry’s: Every time we have tried to go to Harry’s, it has been absolutely packed. Please let us know how it goes for you, maybe get there before opening time.

    favorite moments

    Great wines and great service at Quandri
    Great wines and great service at Quandri
    Rooftop at Hotel Daniele
    Rooftop at Hotel Daniele
    Trattoria Cannonica lasagna + wine
    Trattoria Cannonica lasagna + wine
    Trying new wines at Trattoria Cannonica
    Trying new wines at Trattoria Cannonica
    Gio in one of the rooms of Trattoria Cannonica's secret cellar
    Gio in one of the rooms of Trattoria Cannonica's secret cellar
    Jess's dad enjoying wine
    Jess's dad enjoying wine
    Lunch wines at Osteria Enoteca San Marco
    Lunch wines at Osteria Enoteca San Marco
    Lunch at Osteria Enoteca San Marco
    Lunch at Osteria Enoteca San Marco
    Aman library
    Aman library
    Venice at night
    Venice at night
    Gio and his dad on a water taxi
    Gio and his dad on a water taxi
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  • Bangkok, Thailand

    This is our guide to traveling Bangkok, including the best restaurants, bars, and hotels… with none of the seedy Khaosan road nightlife. Our favorite luxury hotel in Bangkok is absolutely The Capella (our #2 favorite hotel in the world), and Inddee is an must stop for Michelin fans.

    Traveling around Asia? Check out our Singapore Guide.

    Don’t know what to pack? Here’s Jess’s Packing List.

    Top Restaurants

    Inddee

    Overall: Highly Recommend

    Service: 8.5/10    Atmosphere: 7.5/10    Food: 8/10    Beverage Program: 7.5/10

    We will absolutely return to this 1 Michelin star modern Indian restaurant on our next trip to Bangkok. The first course took a very long time to get, otherwise the service would be rated even higher (we recommend requesting a seat at the ‘cold bar’ with Martin because he’s a 10/10 service-wise, same with the GM Felice). Anyways, plan on taking your time here. The tasting menu itself was very good, but the best dish we had was the chicken add-on, which was a play on a chicken dish the chef had growing up and it was as close to perfect as it gets. The sommelier holds the title of ‘Best Sommelier in Asia’ and, while the list heavily leans on natural wines- there are also traditional wines on the list (phew). The big names in the wine industry are missing, and are instead subbed for up-and-coming producers. This can be a positive or negative, depending on what you’re looking for. 

    Sri Trat

    Overall: Recommend

    Service: 8.5/10    Atmosphere: 6.5/10    Food: 8/10    Beverage Program: 5.5/10

    We generally lean away from booking restaurants with a Facebook page for a website, but it is worth sending a message to Sri Trat and securing a seat. This cozy, neighborhood Thai restaurant serves delicious and traditional food in a relaxed setting. The servers are super sweet, the AC is blowing, and the bar is fully stocked. Keep in mind- the wine list is practically non-existent, but there are tons of cocktails and a great list of local beers. For traditional Thai in a more comfortable setting than street stalls, Sri Trat is your place. Make sure to order the ‘stir fried giant tiger prawns with garlic chili fish sauce’ (winning the prize for the most garlic we’ve ever seen on a dish + just being delicious).

    Top Bars

    Stella at Capella

    Overall: Highly Recommend

    Service: 9/10   Atmosphere: 9/10    Bar Program: 9/10

    Not only is this our favorite bar in Bangkok, but it is one of our favorite bars in the world (so much so that we recommend staying at Capella partly so you can end your nights here). There is very good live music almost every night, and bartenders Tae and Frank are wonderful. The ambiance is excellent, the snacks are very good (we recommend the sliders), and all the staff is lovely. It can get busy on weekends (which can provide fun people-watching as influencers pose in front of the ‘white peacock’ centerpiece), so do make sure to make a reservation.

    Lennon’s

    Overall: Recommend

    Service: 8/10    Atmosphere: 8/10    Bar Program: 7/10

    Located on the top of the Rosewood Hotel (take the elevator to the lobby, then an additional elevator across the lobby up to Lennon’s). The views of the city are exceptional, and the vibe is very ‘Mad Men’. Please order the ‘Chantana Kittiyapan’- gin, mango, lychee, and jasmin tea served up- which is one of the best cocktails we’ve had in a while (we tested out tons of these to ‘make sure they’re consistent’… they are.)

    More Restaurants & Bars...

    Overall: Maybe

    Not rating

    We went to this very casual street-side Lebanese restaurant when the traffic got too bad to make it to another lunch. Let’s just say- the hummus was highly memorable and the breads were warm and delicious. Worth a stop if you also end up needing a traffic back-up. Or worth a stop if you’re craving delicious Lebanese food.

    Overall: Consider

    Service: 6.5/10    Atmosphere: 6.5/10        Beverage Program: 7.5/10

    10 stars go to the pretzels, which are the best we have ever had (and we’re not huge bar snack people). This bar is located in the historical House of Sathorn next to the W hotel. The drinks are very innovative. The ambiance is relaxing. Do wear mosquito repellent because it is slightly indoor-outdoor.

    Overall: Maybe

    Service: 6/10     Atmosphere: 7/10       Beverage Program: 6.5/10

    Located in the Four Seasons (walk through the lobby to the right, all the way end, then walk outside until you see it on your left), BKK Social is ranked #1 in Asia and #13 in the world… which should say a lot. We liked it, but we only went once (and we were staying next door). We will certainly give it another shot next time. Reservations required.

    Overall: Recommend

    Service: 8/10    Atmosphere: 7/10    Food: 7.5/10     Beverage Program: 6/10

    This chill yakitori bar is a hipster’s dream. It is modern, it is cool, the food is good (most served on a skewer), and the bartender/servers are lovely. We went twice in one week, and definitely recommend it if you want a chill night with easy food and good people (make a reservation). Tropic City is a popular cocktail bar just down the street, for a drink afterwards.

    Overall: Consider

    Not rated

    Ranked number 12 of Asia’s best bars, we did enjoy our first time at Vesper. Its a dimly lit bar with a creative cocktail list, and a good bartender named Sine. This last trip, we did not visit (partly because they request you make reservations on Instagram, then they never answer, and partly because there are so many other bars in Bangkok). Overall, it might be worth checking out again. Let us know what you think.

    Overall: Highly Consider

    Average rating over 2 visits:

    Service: 6.5/10   Atmosphere: 7/10   Food: 7/10   Wine list: 7/10

    The first time we went to Nahm, we loved it. So, on our following trip to Bangkok- it was the very first restaurant we booked. However, the second visit was a bit of a miss. They have 1 Michelin star, and while the service was attentive, they missed a couple simple things (like pouring wine equally). The true issue, though, was: spice. If our first visit had thai peppers in everything, our second had carolina reapers. It was so spicy that even Jess (who can eat almost anything spicy) couldn’t even finish her tom yum soup (which was one of Gio’s favorite dishes the year before). When we mentioned this, they did nothing to adjust the spice in upcoming courses. However- the wine list is pretty good, especially for Asia. But the reason we can’t highly recommend Nahm is due to the spice inconsistency.

    Overall: Consider

    Service: 6.5/10    Atmosphere: 8/10    Food: 6.5/10     Beverage Program: NA (we can’t remember)

    This rooftop Mexican restaurant next to The Standard hotel is known for it’s beautiful views and decor, rightfully securing it’s spot on the top Instagram must-visit lists. The food is also not bad. We recommend going for a drink before dinner to check it out, and staying if you feel it is right for you. There is a line for the viewing tower at the entrance to the building- do not wait in it- you can skip the line with a reservation at OJO (yes, you definitely should make a reservation- even for drinks).

    Overall: Recommend

    Service: 7/10    Atmosphere: 7.5/10    Food: 7.5/10     Wine List: 5.5/10

    This is a comfortable Chinese restaurant with good food and a traditional, relaxed restaurant setting (think Shang Palace Paris environment). Located in The Athenee Hotel, you will need to take the first elevator you see on your left (near the reception) to the restaurant’s floor. There is a crunchy shrimp spring roll that is outstanding (one is big enough for 2 people), and the peking duck was pretty good. Another recommendation is the green beans with pork (which includes a pepper that numbs your mouth a little and is oddly addicting). As for the wine list- while it may look good, they did not have any of the wines we asked for in stock, so we had to go with the manager’s replacements.

    Overall: Recommend

    Service: 7.5/10    Atmosphere: 7/10    Food: 7/10     Beverage Program: 7/10

    Tucked in the back of the Four Seasons (directly across the lobby, but you need to walk indoors around the water feature), this is a good Chinese restaurant for pretty solid peking duck. We enjoyed our visit, but it did get rather busy. Best to make a reservation.

    Hotels

    The Capella is our top recommendation for hotels in Bangkok (and one of our top 3 favorite hotels in the world) and is likely the only hotel we will ever stay at in Bangkok again. Located on the river and next to the Four Seasons, it is more peaceful than the center of bustling city, but it is easy to get around to other locations (however, you must plan around traffic). The rooms are spacious, comfortable, and cool. The pool is lovely and has a great view of the river. The gym is well equipped and spacious. The spa is nice, too. If there is a downside, we didn’t like the restaurant… but Stella (the bar) is so good that it more than makes up for it.

    The Standard is in Silom, which is a good area for restaurants and bars. However, we left The Standard early and moved to Capella. The pool was small and fully in the sun, and we just felt a little old to be there (that being said- if you like Virgin Cruises, this might be a good fit).

    The first time we went to Bangkok together, we stayed at the St. Regis, which is located in the ‘business’ area of Bangkok, and near many other 5 star hotels. While we had a good stay there, we found ourselves moving around a lot and the area itself was a little too ‘business-ey’ for our idea of vacation. However, we would recommend this hotel if that is what you are looking for.

    There were certainly some advantages to staying at Rosewood Hotel– the automatic butler service for suites was nice, Lennon’s bar was good, and we personally really loved the pool (despite all the bad reviews of it online- there are very few seats and most of the pool is in the shade, which works great for us). Overall though, Rosewood is still in the ‘business’ area, which we don’t really enjoy (and the traffic makes it especially tough to get around). And while it may seem a lot in that area is connected through indoor paths, walkways are all outdoor (and it can get too hot for us).

    We have visited Four Seasons for the restaurants and bars, but haven’t stayed there and probably won’t end up doing so. We did hear that some people switched hotels from Four Seasons to Capella next door, our favorite spot. Waldorf Astoria was on the short list for our last trip, but it is in the business area we don’t love. Another hotel on the short list was the Siam Kempinski, which we didn’t choose partly because of the location and partly because we were afraid there might be too many families (a plus for many, but not for us yet). We stopped by the Shangri-La for dinner one night, and based on that we would skip the whole hotel.

    Tourism & Travel Notes

    We highly recommend getting a hotel car to pick you up from the airport, because the exit can be a bit overwhelming, especially if you’re not very familiar it. Otherwise, we use Grab (basically Uber) to get around most countries in Asia, including Bangkok. Tuk-tuks are convenient for getting around traffic, but do so at your own risk because accidents are certainly not unheard of (same with Grab motorcycles, which may be quick but they do not provide helmets and yeah… we’d skip that one). 

    It is illegal for anyone, anywhere to sell alcohol between 2-5PM and after midnight on Sundays. This is easy to work with if you know, annoying if you go to a late lunch unaware.

    We can’t imagine anyone describing Bangkok as a “very safe city”. So do be very aware, especially at night. We recommend avoiding the red light areas as a whole, for more reasons than just safety. But basically- keep your belongings close and don’t get too drunk anywhere in Bangkok. But there is much fun to be had, so enjoy!

    Notable Places Visited & Not Reviewed

    Benjarong Thai: Just okay food and service was lacking, we left before fully ordering what we had initially planned. Din Tai Fung Central Embassy location: Not edible (and we love Din Tai Fung in the US). Fourth Wall: (Vesper Group Bar) Skip. Their “specialty cocktail” was a French 75. Nan Bei: The crispy chicken was dry, but the pot stickers were good. Riva del Fiume: Located in the Four Seasons, this Italian restaurant was a little too “foo-foo” for us, when we really just wanted good Italian. Saawaan: Most disappointing one-Michelin star purely because of the food, which ranged from bland to inedible. Please don’t go. Salathip Thai Restaurant: Tourist trap. Shang Palace: While we love the one in Paris, we didn’t even make it into this restaurant because we had been to the hotel for dinner the night before (at Salathip) and it was straight-up dirty.

    favorite moments

    Trying all the local beers at Sri Trat
    Trying all the local beers at Sri Trat
    Garlic prawn dish at Sri Trat- amazing
    Garlic prawn dish at Sri Trat- amazing
    One of the best chicken dishes of all time at Inddee
    One of the best chicken dishes of all time at Inddee
    The view at Lennon's
    The view at Lennon's
    Pecking duck at the Four Season's Chinese restaurant
    Pecking duck at the Four Season's Chinese restaurant
    The second place cocktail from our Bartenders Challenge!
    The second place cocktail from our Bartenders Challenge!
    Stella bar at Capella
    Stella bar at Capella
    Gio very happy with his Lebanese food
    Gio very happy with his Lebanese food
    Jua Izakaya bar
    Jua Izakaya bar
    The view at OJO
    The view at OJO
    The original, best Tom Yum soup at Nahm
    The original, best Tom Yum soup at Nahm
    Green beans at The Silk Road
    Green beans at The Silk Road
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  • Singapore

    The first time we went to Singapore, we thought we’d never go back. Here is what we did wrong after the first visit, and what we’ve learned after visit #3- don’t stay in Orchard (even if Anthony Bourdain did), pack for high humidity, don’t expect anything from the airport, and visit our favorite restaurants and bars, all listed below.

    Traveling around Asia? Check out our Bangkok Guide.

    Don’t know what to pack? Here’s Jess’s Packing List.

    Top Restaurants

    Thevar

    Overall: Must Go

    Service: 9/10   Atmosphere: 7.5/10   Food: 10/10    Wine List: 8.5/10

    This is the first restaurant we have ever given a 10/10 food ranking to, and Thevar deserves it. Chef Thevar is the most talented young chef we have ever come across- and this modern Indian restaurant is a huge reason why we have returned to Singapore time and time again (this restaurant alone might be worth a trip to Singapore, to be honest). Thevar operates a tasting menu that combines French and Japanese techniques with sublime Indian flavors. Located in arguably the best area for innovative food- Tanjong Pagar- Thevar is an open-kitchen concept in a modern, but narrow space. Aside from table seating, there are 2 seats at the chef’s counter- which we highly recommend requesting. The food is consistent, technical, memorable, deeply flavorful, and it certainly deserves its 2 Michelin stars (plus the highly-acclaimed spot of offering some of the best dishes of our lives). We could not recommend this restaurant enough. If you have one dinner in Singapore- go to Thevar.

    Ocean

    Overall: Highly Recommend

    Service: 9/10   Atmosphere: 10/10   Food: 9/10    Wine List: 8.5/10

    Located in the aquarium of Resorts World on Sentosa Island, a 15 minute drive from central Singapore… this tasting menu restaurant is a once-in-a-lifetime meal. We went for the experience- dining inside an aquarium- and we were left with our jaws dropping to the floor. The food was exceptional. The wine list was great. The service was world-class. And while we were certainly entertained by the 40,000 underwater creatures circling around us, the fact that we were deeply impressed with everything else says a lot. We highly recommend going for lunch and doing the full 6 course tasting meal, as we did. There is a dress code, and children under 8 are not allowed.

    Yen Yakiniku

    Overall: Highly Consider

    Service: 9/10    Atmosphere: 7.5/10    Food: 9.5/10    Wine: 8.5/10

    Yen Yakiniku is a chef’s counter dining experience, where everything from A5 Wagyu to king oyster mushrooms are cooked to order, on a grill directly in front of you. While they do offer omakase, we truly enjoyed ordering a la carte, especially given recommendations from Queenie- the very sweet server we suggest you request. The restaurant is a mixture of Japanese, Korean, and Taiwanese cuisine- which somehow manages to work extremely well. While the wine list is very limited, there are several solid sake options, as well as beer, sochu, and the like. There is only bar counter seating, but the vibe still manages to come off as quite high-end (and trendy, of course, being near Tanjong Pagar). We heard weekends fill up, so try for a weekday night. We highly recommend the Spanish Iberico pork jowl, the side of roasted garlic, and of course the wagyu. Jess almost finished 2 full orders of the kimchi, so get that too.

    Top Bars

    Atlas

    Overall: Highly Recommend

    Service: 7/10    Atmosphere: 9.5/10    Bar Program: 10/10

    To clarify- the beverage program is a 10/10 for gin drinkers, with a true selection of over 1,200 gins to choose from at your whim. They have other cocktails, too, which are great- but this is a gin bar (plus random afternoon tea and some other food). Located in certainly one of the most extravagant buildings- with glamorous art-deco decor and tremendously high ceilings- Atlas has one of the most stunning settings for a bar we have ever seen and is a perfect place to spend an afternoon (.5 subtracted for the bathrooms, otherwise atmosphere would be a 10). When you book make sure to request bar seats (but know the tables are comfortable too). And ask to sit with Lana, who runs the bar program and is wonderful. There is apparently a ‘Gin Experience’, but we were told it is really just walking in a circle and up a couple stairs, so maybe skip that. This is one of the few spots located north of Marina Bay Sands (and not in Tanjong Pagar) that we highly recommend.

    Tippling Club

    Overall: Highly Recommend

    Service: 8/10   Atmosphere: 7/10     Food:   8/10     Bar Program: 8/10

    We booked the Tippling Club Bar Experience (which is in the link above) and ended up returning the very next day. Tippling Club is in the trendy Tanjong Pagar area (because of course it is) and is one of the first bespoke cocktail bars to exist in Singapore. The drinks are great, the service is great (ask for Aaron the manager), and… the bar menu is outstanding. We recommend the fried fish sandwich and the Mapo Tofu fries. This is definitely one of our favorite bars in Singapore, if not our favorite. Next time, we will go for the full tasting menu at the connected restaurant. 

    Jigger & Pony

    Overall: Recommend

    Service: 7/10   Atmosphere: 8/10   Bar Program: 8/10

    Number 14 of the Worlds 50 Best Bars list in 2024, Jigger & Pony is arguably the most famous bar in Singapore, if not one of the most famous in all of Asia. Small tip: If you cannot get bar seats, do not go. If you can, do. You have to make a reservation well in advance. The drinks are good, the style is very Mad-Men-esque, and the bartenders are usually very personable. We also recommend the grilled cheese.

    More Restaurants & Bars...

    Overall: Highly Consider

    Service: 7/10   Atmosphere: 7/10    Food: 8/10    Beverage: NA (Korean liquor only)

    One of the most impressive things about this modern Korean restaurant is that we believed it had one Michelin star the entire time we ate there (it doesn’t) and we left convinced that it did (it still doesn’t, but should). This delicious Korean restaurant has a warm and modern design with authentic and flavorful food, and we plan on returning to in the future. Everything on the menu was good (our least favorite was the Sotbap rice), but definitely do not miss the beef tartar, hogam jeon (potato pancake), or the grilled iberico pork app. The wine list is non-existent, but they offer Korean liquors so this is your time to try Soju!

    Overall: Don’t really recommend

    Not rating

    This is the famous bar on the top of the Marina Bay Sands hotel (the one that looks like a cruise ship stacked on 3 skyscrapers). You need to pay a cover fee, which applies to your drinks. If there is a line, it is not worth waiting. Go to Wakuda for a drink (40 steps away) and wait for the line to die down, then go up. At the top, walk straight and veer left out of the elevators to enter the bar and get a seat (hopefully with Ross, who is great). You can wander around most of the roof once you enter, and it is worth one visit if you want a view of the city. The best view is after exiting the elevator, taking a right and walking down the hallway until you get outside and immediately turning left to the railing- where you can see the Gardens by the Bay etc.

    Overall: Worth A Visit (surprisingly!)

    Not rating

    If you’re in Marina Bay Sands and you’re looking for a quite bar nibble, stop by CUT by Wolfgang Puck for a tuna tartare. They are only open from 5PM on, but the bar staff is lovely and we were very pleasantly surprised when we stumbled across it after getting off a late flight. They even got us shiso-detesters to try a shiso drink, which we surprisingly liked! The atmosphere is nice and cool, and it’s a good spot for a quick stop after a long day.

    Overall: Recommend

    Not rating

    We’ve only been once, very late at night, and stayed until 3am closing- where the staff lip-synched 90’s classics and served cups of chicken soup at the end. It feels unfair to rate. But, it was one of our favorite nights in Singapore so- despite having a hard time getting bar seats on a crowded Saturday- we definitely recommend. We’ll be back to review properly.

    Overall: Highly Recommend

    Service: 7.5/10   Atmosphere: 8/10    Food: 8/10    Beverage: 5.5/10 

    Despite the low rating for the beverage program (which is basically just a really terrible wine list plus some pretty good cocktails), we highly recommend this restaurant, especially for lunch when they are less busy and the service is better than good (ask for manager Lukasz who is amazing). This modern Indian restaurant was started by a professional restaurant designer, and it shows- each room has a unique theme (from elephants to tigers) and the design is really unique. There is a semi-set menu at lunch (a la carte at dinner), which we normally do not prefer, but it is GOOD. Skip the fish and go for the pork iberico instead, which is incredible. We also highly recommend the tomato and ginger chutneys, plus the lentils (which are spicy) with a side of black garlic naan.

    Overall: Highly Consider

    Service: 9/10    Atmosphere: 8/10    Food: 7.5/10    Wine: 6/10

    This is the first modern-Singaporean restaurant to receive 1 Michelin star. They take technique seriously, with the lunch tasting menu requiring a minimum of 3 hours. The food is basically gastronomic versions of local Singaporean dishes- saving you a trip from the hot hawker stalls and giving you well-executed dishes in a comfortable environment. Located on the second floor of a mall across the street from the Ritz Carlton & Mandarin Oriental- the restaurant is dark and trendy, with plenty of space between tables. While there were unique wines from Syria, China, and more, the list was smaller than expected and there were only 2 white burgundies (one being Corton Charlemagne). Our server, Sho, was super friendly and he is a somm- we highly recommend requesting him if possible. Oh, and the shaved ice for dessert was amazing.

    Overall: Consider

    Service: 6/10   Atmosphere: 7/10    Food: 5/10    Beverage: 7/10 

    Many people might think the draw of MO Bar at the Mandarin Oriental is the view (it’s good), but it’s really bartender Kim- a cheery and hospitable bartender from South Korea, who whips up clever cocktails and has a habit for remembering every guest. Go there for him, expect crowded elevators (see Mandarin Oriental hotel review below), enjoy some good cocktails, skip the food, expect weird service from everyone besides Kim, and know that if there is live music it might not be good (at all). We recommend going for a quick drink when they open at 5, if it is convenient for you.

    Overall: Recommend (but only if you’re staying on Sentosa Island)

    Service: 8/10    Atmosphere: 4/10    Food: 8/10    Beverage Program: 5/10

    This restaurant is certainly not worth going out of your way for… however… if you are staying on Sentosa Island (which we do not recommend) it is the #2 restaurant, only behind Ocean. The ambiance is cafeteria like, and your best bet for drinks is sake, but we got very lucky with a great server and the food was truly outstanding- think perfectly seared wagyu beef and specialty cuts of meat that arrived just that day.

    Overall: Recommend

    Not rating

    We only had time to stop downstairs for a few drinks and snacks, which is why it isn’t fair for us to review this (especially because their infamous cocktail bar is upstairs). However, every drink on the menu is clarified (a big yes for us) and none of the drinks were too sweet, plus the local Singaporean ingredients were very unique. The head chef was very sweet- make sure to try her mom’s very spicy hot sauce. 

    Overall: Highly Recommend

    Service: 8.5/10    Atmosphere: 8/10    Food: 8/10    Beverage Program: 7/10 (nice sake list)

    We booked the ‘Premium Lunch Menu’ omakase, which is more like what Americans who have been to Japan know kaiseke to be- many tiny prepared dishes, and not sushi. Kosuke, the head chef, was incredibly sweet and very creative, making some of the most stunning presentations for his intricately prepared dishes. Including the best mackarel we have ever had (in a sesame preparation), some other favorites were soba noodles served in carved ice and the amazing (and not too sweet) desserts. This restaurant is tucked away near Chinatown, and also offers a wagyu lunch- which we would definitely look into next time.

    Overall: Recommend

    Service: 6.5/10    Atmosphere: 7.5/10    Food: 7.5/10    Beverage Program: 6/10

    This Chinese restaurant in the Pan Pacific Hotel is one of the better Chinese restaurants in Singapore. Our food rating could be higher, but we probably didn’t order right (we would suggest avoiding their specialty crab dish unless you truly love saffron). However, what we did order right: a delicious modern ‘cigar’ made with foie gras, truffle, and snow crab that we highly recommend (it is big enough to share, but the layers differ in flavors so you might want two). There is a vegetable dish that includes ‘lotus root stuffed with prawn mousse’ that is outstanding.

    Overall: Consider

    Service: 7.5/10    Atmosphere: 6.5/10    Beverage Program: 9/10

    The reason to go to Sago House is for the cocktail program. This bar is #10 in Asia’s best bars, and they create a brand new cocktail menu… every… single… week. The best part was that every single cocktail was expertly balanced, creative, and you could still ask for a bespoke cocktail to your taste. This Tanjong Pagar hotspot is in a narrow semi-grungy spot with a very thoughtful bathroom that added .5 to the atmosphere.

    Overall: Recommend

    Service: 7.5/10    Atmosphere: 7.5/10    Food: 7.5/10    Beverage Program: 5/10 (beer, sake)

    For uni lovers only. Located on level 3 of the small Bugis Cube building, this tiny 6-seat sushi counter gave us the first ever uni soup of our lives- which might be one of Jess’s favorite dishes of all time and also a dish she never imagined she would love so much. We opted for the lunch omakase, and the reason the food rating isn’t higher is only because the actual sushi courses were very traditionally aged fish (which we don’t love, but some people might). However, this is a great place. We’ll likely go again in the future for the uni tasting and uni soup, plus the negitoromaki handroll add-on that we devoured happily.

    Hotels

    So far, our favorite hotel in Singapore is the Ritz Carlton Millenia. While it certainly doesn’t top our list of ‘best hotels in the world’, it is in a good location, has a very good gym, and offers both a comfortable pool and nice rooms. They do have a hotel bar, Republic. And the service was nice when we stayed there. 

    On our next trip to Singapore, we will likely either return to the Ritz or check out a hotel in Tanjong Pagar area, which we haven’t stayed in yet.

    The Mandarin Oriental is okay and it is in a very good location (next door to the Ritz Carlton), but it can get really busy. A big problem is that they offer a buffet dinner, which families of mostly non-hotel guests flock to, and there are lines that block the elevators (then fill the elevators with 20+ people). This all sounds terrible- which it is- but it does only last an hour or so. The MO Bar is good. Also, we’re not really breakfast people, but the breakfast at this hotel is great and offers global cuisines plus a very sweet old pastry chef who is very proud of his croissants. We stayed in the family suite for access to laundry facilities- and the room was pretty comfortable overall. The pool was nice, especially in the early afternoon, and the gym was well-equipped albeit a bit tight. 

    Ugh. For being a 5-star hotel, there are some major problems with The Fullerton Bay Hotel. Good things: the location is convenient and the AC works perfectly. The bad: There is approx 2 sq ft of shade in the pool that disappears by noon, mold in the showers, confused concierges, a busy gym with a max capacity of 4 people… and no indoor bar. Overall- skip it.

    While the Four Seasons is fine, Orchard as an area is very business-oriented and too inconvenient for all the restaurants we love and recommend, so we’d skip this hotel for the location alone.

    Jess’s mom loves the Capella Sentosa, so we are not allowed to say anything too harsh. That being said- we do not recommend staying on Sentosa Island, and Capella is the best hotel there (Taylor Swift, Donald Trump, and Kim Jong Un have all frequented). We had a serious problem with the AC in our room, and the restaurants at the hotel were poor (but the pools were lovely, and if you do stay there Sara at the pool gave the best service).

    Do yourself a favor and stay on mainland Singapore, and visit Ocean restaurant for lunch on Sentosa, but skip the rest of this little futuristic kid-land.

    We have never given hotels in Tanjong Pagar a chance- which we are likely to do next time because almost all of the good bars and restaurants are in that area. We are curious about The Mondrian, which is in an ideal location.

    On a separate note- The Fullerton is really outdated, busy, and it has a bad pool. Marina Bay Sands is the most iconic hotel, but with 2,500 rooms it is really not for us.

    Tourism & Travel Notes

    One time, when landing on Air France, the pilot came on the speaker and warned everyone that ‘Any THC or CBD product, including gummies and creams, are punishable… by death.’

    Make sure to look up everything you are bringing in online to make sure it is allowed (including sleeping pills and the like). Here’s the government link.

    Also, ensure you fill out your Singapore arrival card online before landing. You can then quickly scan your passport when you leave. If you are asked to pay money to fill out this card online- it is a scam. Singapore Air provided us with a link to the direct government site here. 

    Singapore Airport has the best marketing team, because many of us are under the impression that it is the best airport in the world and… eh. (Maybe it’s because of the waterfall, which is fine to see once but Disneylandy nonetheless).

    The good news: Security is at each individual gate, so you save a lot of time (hence, do not have to get to the airport that early). When you arrive at the airport, you simply go through immigration and get into your terminal.

    The bad news: We’re pretty sure it’s a scam. We actually saw a poster marketing a ‘deal’ of 3 pints of Guinness for nearly $60. Super normal for Singapore Airport. All of the (2) bars per terminal are empty, and the people that work there seem genuinely confused when guests do sit down and order something. But, you can buy 3 pints of Guinness? So… there’s that. Also- hate to say it- but the Singapore Air Business lounge is also rough (however, the food on the flight can be really good- Jess recommends pre-ordering the bibimbap).

    Also: If you are flying Business on Singapore Air and the airport screens flash that your flight is doing ‘last call’, that is for economy. You have an extra 10-ish minutes. It makes no sense, and you cannot time it perfectly. Go to the gate, but do not panic.

    Point is: Don’t go early.

    Grab is the Uber of Southeast Asia, and Singapore is no exception. Make sure to select the option for paying with your credit card in advance, or the driver will expect cash upon arrival at your destination. Grab is especially convenient at the airport, and we highly recommend using it instead of booking a car through the hotel. For anyone who has used Uber before- download the app and upload your credit card before arrival in Singapore… then it is really, really easy.

    Here’s a link to a Google map of Singapore’s districts.

    D1 Raffles Place: This is where The Fullerton Bay hotels are. While it is central and has a good view of Marina Bay Sands (MBS), it’s not our favorite area. It’s a little busy and touristy.

    D2 Tanjong Pagar: Our favorite area with the best restaurants and bars around. Young and vibrant with colonial architecture.

    Chinatown: Very close to Tanjong Pagar with good restaurants and good markets.

    Marina Bay Sands: This is a huge expanse covering the hotel, neighboring mall, expansive casino, and the gardens are nearby. It’s busy. It’s touristy. And while it’s not really our thing, we do end up there at least once every trip.

    Millenia Walk: This is near the Ritz and Mandarin Oriental. We like staying in this area because it is less busy than across the river, while being walkable if the weather permits. It is quieter and comfortable (and sometimes under construction, but that’s everywhere in Singapore).

    National Gallery Area: This is where Long Bar and the National Gallery is. It’s a nice part of town and quite walkable, but there isn’t too much going on at night (that we know of).

    D6 Beach Road: This is near Atlas Bar & Haji Ln (a lively tourist spot with graffiti and small restaurants). It’s a cool area we would like to explore more.

    D8 Little India: We are terrible tourists because we have never been.

    D9 Orchard: While this was Anthony Bourdain’s place to stay, we found it really out of the way for what we wanted to do. Plus, it truly did feel like a business district and bored us.

    Sentosa: This resort and amusement island is a 15 min drive from central Singapore. We do not recommend staying here or even bothering going out of your way to visit. However, we absolutely recommend going to Ocean Restaurant for a once-in-a-lifetime lunch.

    Hawker Stalls: This is a tourist right of passage in Singapore, but we have always had a really hard time with it due to the heat. Maxwell is certainly one of the more touristy spots, and Albert is very authentic. We recommend choosing a smaller center close to your hotel (some are air conditioned in malls and are reminiscent of US food courts). If you do go, note that seats are ‘reserved’ by people putting everything from a stack of tissues to their phones in front of a seat. Look for a chicken rice stand with some locals in front of it… But maybe make another lunch reso, just in case.

    Art Science Museum: This is the building that looks like a lotus in front of the Marina Bay Sands. Avoid unless you are going with children and are comfortable with crowds. Very strange exhibits that are not very nice. VR was broken when we went (it did not mention this online, and it seemed to have been out of order for a while).

    Gardens by the Bay: Marked by the big flower-like statues you see- this spot can get busy but the statues are fun to see lit up at night- we like the rooftop views at Ce La Vie.

    Cloud Forest: The best part of Gardens by the Bay and temperature-controlled to stay cool.

    Water/Light Show in Marina Bay: Underwhelming. Usually occur around 8pm and 9pm nightly. Do not leave dinner early to see this.

    Marina Bay Sands: Shopping galore and wildly busy on weekends, and around concert times. If you want to go on the roof, wait until late and go to Ce La Vie for a drink, or make a reservation at Spago. There is a wait for everything here, so reservations are important.

    National Gallery: Good views with solid restaurant options in a multi-level museum.

    Long Bar: Do. Not. Go. (see below)

    Of course, always be cautious while traveling. That being said, Singapore is probably the safest country we have ever visited (in large part due to the very severe punishments with being caught for any crime). You don’t need to worry about being robbed, mugged, taken, etc. If anything, you need to worry more about you getting yourself into trouble. Small things to be cautious of:

    – Absolutely do not even think about bring chewing gum into the country (And definitely no THC or CBD products!)

    – While jaywalking is illegal, locals say that tickets are given if you cross the street illegally within 50 meters of a crosswalk

    – Everything you do is on camera. Apparently tourists show up at the airport immigration and learn there if they were caught doing something illegal/given tickets there.

    Other unique laws can be found here.

     

    Notable Places Visited & Not Reviewed

    Analog Bar: Trendy and cool vegan bar with health-focused cocktails. Book Bar: Cute Tanjong Pagar bookstore and cafe that ‘happens’ to serve alcohol, with local authors. Cat Bite Club: Cool bar (walk to the very back) that is worth a stop, especially if you like tequila and mezcal. Cherry Garden: Unbelievably bad on all accounts. Please avoid. Elephant Room: A popular bar with innovative cocktails, we liked it but didn’t love it. Fiamma: Jess’s dad said it was the worst meal he’d had in memory and we understand. Garibaldi: Extensive wine list but only alright food and service. The atmosphere is boring and not very high-end. Imperial Treasure: This chain is meh. Avoid. Jypsy One Fullerton: The whole area is weird and touristy. Skip. Khiri: Big disappointment. Definitely skip. KOMA: Standard sushi (but the DIY tuna is good) in a well-designed space that fits with the TAO brand. Often open between lunch and dinner even if it says closed online. LONG BAR: We had to emphasize it…. DO NOT GO. Biggest tourist trap in Singapore and your reward for waiting in a hot and miserable line (which is unceasing) is a very large sour/sweet Singapore Sling that will roll around in your stomach for hours after you step on other people’s used peanut shells. It might sound fun, but it is (at best) mediocre. Do. Not. Recommend. Madame Fan: Ok atmosphere, below average food, decent wine list. Nighthawk: A way too tiny bar that gets packed but has good service. Panamericana: Fine food for Sentosa. Republic: Just an ok bar. Shinsora: This was one of our favorite omakase experiences of all time, led by sushi genius Sky Tai, but days after we tried it they switched concepts to private dining only. We would recommend it if that’s something you’re interested in. 8 seats, minimum of 2 week advance notice, booking available on their site. Shoukouwa: Worst omakase ever, do not waste your time. Avoid. Smoke & Mirrors: This mostly outdoor, barely indoor bar in the National Gallery is worth going for the views if the weather is good. Summer Pavillion: The service was good but the food was just ok. +twelve: Please avoid this terrible place. Wakuda: We only went for snacks and drinks, but both were solid. Febby runs the bar program and she is awesome.

    favorite moments

    Soba on ice at Nishikane
    Soba on ice at Nishikane
    Beef tartar at ANJU
    Beef tartar at ANJU
    Jess's dad and his pet gecko at Ce La Vie rooftop
    Jess's dad and his pet gecko at Ce La Vie rooftop
    Wagyu at Yen Yakiniku- ready to go on the grill!
    Wagyu at Yen Yakiniku- ready to go on the grill!
    Uni soup at Sushi Seizan!
    Uni soup at Sushi Seizan!
    Jess at Ocean Restaurant- best restaurant view of all time
    Jess at Ocean Restaurant- best restaurant view of all time
    Snow ice at Labyrinth
    Snow ice at Labyrinth
    Anniversary date
    Anniversary date
    Chef Sky Tai- who does private dining now!
    Chef Sky Tai- who does private dining now!
    Gio's favorite gin at Atlas Bar
    Gio's favorite gin at Atlas Bar
    Foie, snow crab, truffle cigar at Peach Blossoms
    Foie, snow crab, truffle cigar at Peach Blossoms
    How we wish Noka was still open!
    How we wish Noka was still open!
    Exploring in the rain!
    Exploring in the rain!
    One of our favorite bites in the world- chicken chive taco (that tastes like shredded beef) at Thevar
    One of our favorite bites in the world- chicken chive taco (that tastes like shredded beef) at Thevar
    Chef Thevar and his delicious bites
    Chef Thevar and his delicious bites
    Atlas Bar's Gin Library
    Atlas Bar's Gin Library
    Gio's first ever drink at Atlas!
    Gio's first ever drink at Atlas!
    Iberico at Firangi Superstar
    Iberico at Firangi Superstar
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  • Maui, Hawaii

    Nearly every year, Gio’s family takes a trip to Wailea to rewind and enjoy some of the best restaurants in Maui. Our top restaurant recommendation in Maui is actually outside of Wailea, but it is a must: Mama’s Fish House. Top recommended hotel: Kea Lani (mostly for the swim-up bar).

    Why stop in Maui? Continue on to Japan- see our Tokyo & Osaka Guide here.

    Don’t know what to pack? Here’s Jess’s Packing List.

    Top Restaurants

    Mama’s Fish House

    Overall: Highly Recommend

    Service: 8.5/10    Atmosphere: 9/10    Food: 9/10    Beverage Program: 8/10

    Located a 40-ish min drive from Wailea (where almost everything else we have reviewed is located), Mama’s is our #1 restaurant in Maui and one of our top 5 restaurants in the world. Proof- we will happily drive 40 or so minutes each way… and we get carsick so we almost never do that. Mama’s books up immediately, so the moment you book your trip to Maui, you should work on getting a reservation. We recommend lunch to enjoy the beachside view. The restaurant is indoor-outdoor, so do dress accordingly for the weather (it can get warm, but don’t let that deter you). Jess’s favorite dish is the toothfish, and Gio likes the opakapaka. If you call 48 hours ahead of time, the chef can try to arrange for fresh sashimi (we highly recommend the fresh ahi). Mai Tai’s are excellent, and Jess always orders the Pau Hana gin and ginger drink because it’s not too sweet. We go a minimum of 2 times per trip and couldn’t recommend it more. Make sure to order lots of appetizers to share.

    Mama’s is worth the flight to Maui (we often go straight off the airplane as it is closer to the airport than Wailea).

    Spago

    Overall: Highly Recommend

    Service: 8/10    Atmosphere: 8/10    Food: 8/10     Bar Program: 8/10

    Spago is a solid option for a nice dinner in Maui, located on the upper floor of the Four Seasons. We have been many times and, while the service has always been good, the last time it was excellent, so we bumped the rating up. The famous ‘Spago-cones’- we find to be a little too sweet. Other than that, we enjoy a lot of the menu items- especially the bolognese pasta (which you can order in a small portion and you should definitely consider). No corkage here, as with pretty much all Wolfgang Puck restaurants.

    Morimoto Maui

    Overall: Highly Recommend

    Service: 7.5/10    Atmosphere: 8/10    Food: 8.5/10    Beverage Program: NA (sake list is solid)

    Morimoto Maui has impressively fresh fish and quality local specials that are not to be missed- especially the ahi poke tacos. Make sure to make a reservation and specify exactly where you want- we prefer either the outdoor bar or the outdoor, large table directly to the right of it (seats 6 very comfortably). It is colder indoors, so on nights when the weather is nice… it is great to sit outside- you might even catch the hotel’s fire show…

    Lineage

    Overall: Highly Recommend

    Service: 8/10    Atmosphere: 6.5/10    Food: 8.5/10     Bar Program: 7/10

    Probably the most modern dining concept in Wailea shops, Lineage offers Chinese fusion with a younger vibe in a moody and casual restaurant. We highly recommend spending a dinner here- the garlic noodles are absolutely not to be missed and the fried chicken is almost iconic. Reservations necessary (and you can reserve dinner at the bar, which we will 100% do again).

    Miso Phat

    Overall: Highly Consider

    Service: 7/10   Atmosphere: 6/10    Food: 8.5/10    Beverage: 6/10

    This walk-in only sushi spot in Kihei is our favorite casual lunch spot on the island, and it is just outside of Wailea. The fish is very fresh (we love the local sashimi platter) and the rolls are extravagant. The portions are generous, so do be prepared. It can get cold (which is a great thing for sushi restaurants, we think) so do bring a sweater on a hot day. We usually arrive at least 10 minutes before opening to secure a seat.

    Top Bars

    Lobby Lounge

    Overall: Highly Recommend

    Service: 8/10   Atmosphere: 9/10   Bar Program: 8/10

    This is certainly our favorite bar in Maui for sunset drinks, and they usually have very good live music at night. Bar seats are hard to come by and hotel guests do seem to get priority (which should be the case), but go early and snag some bar seats or a comfortable lounge chair. They also have very good snacks including yuca fries which Jess loves and (sometimes) sushi rolls or chef pop-ups. This is the bar when you enter the Four Seasons directly from the front or pool/beach level, in the lobby. Also, yes, the bar in White Lotus.

    Maui Brewing Co.

    Overall: Recommend

    Service: 6/10       Atmosphere: 7/10       Food: 6.5/10      Beer Selection: 7.5/10

    This Kihei outpost is a quick ride from Wailea resorts and offers a nice afternoon activity. We have always gone early/around opening time, so we are not sure how busy it gets later in the day, but they apparently offer live music many evenings. We like a pre-lunch beer flight and a few snacks, if we’re hungry. Indoor-outdoor and it should be noted there are usually chickens roaming around.

    Ama

    Overall: Recommend

    Service: 7/10    Atmosphere: 7.5/10    Food: 7/10     Bar Program: 7/10

    This is Kea Lani’s swim up bar and neighboring grill, and it is a huge reason why we often choose to stay at the Kea Lani- it is a fun place to spend the day. Both the chicken tenders and Maui Salad with the fresh catch were memorably good. The ambiance is often determined by whichever guests are there (as with most swim-up bars).

    More Restaurants & Bars...

    Overall: Recommend

    Service: 7.5/10    Atmosphere: 7.5/10    Food: 7/10     Bar Program: NA

    Located downstairs of the Four Seasons, this steak and seafood restaurant offers Four Seasons-level service with a menu that has something for everyone. Jess enjoyed the penang curry and sitting outdoors is wonderful in good Maui weather (we usually visit in December). We don’t visit DUO every trip to Maui, but when we have gone we enjoyed it.

    Overall: Recommend

    Service: 6/10    Atmosphere: 6/10    Food: 6/10     Bar Program: 5.5/10

    This locals-friendly cafe is a 30-45 minute drive from Wailea and is worth it if you are staying in town for a long time and want to mix things up (while you can get an Uber there, it might be a dicier situation trying to get an Uber back). Gio’s parents love this place, and they used to visit often when they lived in Hawaii, so it has many good memories. It is a locals favorite- especially for the pork enchilada pie. They do have very good desserts. We personally don’t love it, but part of that has to do with the drive. 

    Overall: Recommend

    Service: 7.5/10    Atmosphere: 7/10    Food: 7.5/10     Bar Program: 7/10

    This indoor-outdoor pool restaurant is located in the Marriott and has solid food and drinks. It is slightly air-conditioned (or feels like it, at least), so on hot days it offers a nice break. It is definitely a good, casual lunch spot with people watching over the pool. The nearby bar is also comfortable and has a nice ocean view, but is sometimes filled with guests-only signs (but we have only seen these enforced in the actual pool).

    Overall: Worth A Visit

    Service: 6/10     Atmosphere: 6 /10    Food: NA    Beverage Program:  6/10

    A casual place for lunch in the afternoons. Unfortunately, Jess’s weird allergy to bee products makes it hard for her to eat here (honey is even in the pizza dough!) but it is a casual and nice lunch spot and people love the lilikoi (passion fruit) foam on the Mai Tais (also made of honey). Everyone seems to go here for casual lunches.

    Overall: Consider

    Service: 7/10    Atmosphere: 7/10    Food: 7/10     Beverage Program: 6/10

    This is Grand Wailea’s poolside restaurant, and we have really only gone for lunch (and mostly only eaten the pizzas- which can be highly customized and are quite good). Ask for a pizza extra crispy and enjoy the ocean breeze. The bar program is average, but we had a slight problem with the wine list looking good and them being sold out of most of what we tried to order.

    Overall: Maybe

    Not rated

    A good spot for watching sports games and having a quick bite, located in the shopping mall near Lineage (which you should go to).

    Hotels

    The Four Seasons has the best lobby bar in Wailea. The private pool for guests has a great swim up bar- small but high-end. The rooms aren’t a great value, which is why we prefer Kea Lani.

    The Grand Wailea is the hotel we often stay at with family, but it’s not our personal favorite. It’s a little spread out and also a bit out-of-date (especially the gym) with seemingly never-ending construction. The pool service is mostly a miss, and even though the pools are cold there are very fun waterslides for all ages to enjoy. The swim up bar is in a cave and can be fun. The bar in the lobby is great around sunset time, with live music and a very friendly bartender named Keoni– tell him we said hello!

    The Kea Lani is our preferred hotel due to the great swim-up bar, convenient location, and brand new gym. The bar in the evenings is comfortable, made particularly enjoyable with live music as the sun sets. The rooms are comfortable and spacious, and the service has been solid for all of our stays.

    This Marriott hotel is a favorite of many, and we enjoyed our stay there. While it might be tempting to book the base room with points, we highly recommend against the base rooms (ours was in a dark nook by a water heater and surrounded by loud families so we did need to change, but maybe some are better?). The suites overlooking the ocean and pool are spacious and comfortable. The restaurant Kapa Bar & Grill is also a great lunch spot. The pool is nice, but lounge chairs instantly fill up and the cabanas are reservation-only. This hotel is generally comfortable and in a great location.

    We have not stayed at the Andaz, but we do enjoy going to Morimoto there, and the location is nice. The pools are laid out in a ‘tier-style’, which spaces them out a lot- separated by staircases. We would highly suggest avoiding this hotel if you cannot walk up stairs because there are so many (there are ADA golf-carts available but they can take a while).

    Tourism & Travel Notes

    As much as it seems easy to rent a car, Gio and I much prefer using Ubers and the occasional hotel house-car, both of which are plentiful. As you’ve noticed from our post, we spend most of our time in Wailea, which is very easy to get around and has a wonderful walking path along the beach that (can be hilly but) does get you between hotels easily.

    Most hotels offer wristbands for their guests and are only open to hotel guests. Resorts Pass has proven a great way to explore other hotel pools when you get bored of your own- we used this to go to the Kea Lani swim up bar one time when we were staying in a house nearby and had a great afternoon.

    Notable Places Visited & Not Reviewed

    KŌ: We don’t want to review this restaurant at the Kea Lani Hotel because we haven’t been in years and we heard it’s changed its concept (it was not memorable before but that can be a good thing?). Matteo’s: This is a standard Italian restaurant that might be worth a visit if you are in the area for over a week. Ruth’s Chris: Standard chain with lots of butter on steaks and hot plates. Tommy Bahamas: Coconut shrimp type of deal. Wailea Swim-Up Bar: You should obviously check out this cave-style bar if you are staying at Wailea, but it is not a reason itself to stay at the hotel. If you are looking for a hotel with a good swim-up bar we would suggest Kea Lani istead.

    favorite moments

    View from the bar at Four Seasons
    View from the bar at Four Seasons
    Toothfish at Mama's
    Toothfish at Mama's
    Mama's tuna- we are obsessed
    Mama's tuna- we are obsessed
    Miso Phat sushi
    Miso Phat sushi
    Miso Phat sushi
    Miso Phat sushi
    Reading by the pool
    Reading by the pool
    Maui views
    Maui views
    Best tuna sashimi fresh at mama's
    Best tuna sashimi fresh at mama's
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  • Las Vegas, Nevada

    Las Vegas Nevada United States of America best restaurants best bars blog

    There’s more to Vegas than nightclubs and the like. Vegas has some really amazing restaurants. Our favorite hotel to recommend is Wynn Tower Suites (though the non-tower suite side is our second choice), and one of our top restaurant is located in the same hotel: Wing Lei. For the best lunch, cure your late night drinking with a healthy Greek feast at Milo’s (Vegas is our top location from this restaurant group), and don’t forget to nurse your hangover at Icebar at The Linq.

    Can’t get enough of the party? Check out our Miami Guide.

    Don’t know what to pack? Here’s Jess’s Packing List.

    Top Restaurants

    Wing Lei

    Overall: Highly Consider

    Service: 9/10    Atmosphere: 8.5/10    Food: 9/10    Beverage Program: 8/10

    Our favorite luxury Chinese restaurant in Vegas is located in the Wynn hotel and offers some of the best cuisine and service around. If you are looking for one nice dinner in Vegas with a focus on good food- this is it (keep in mind they are closed Tuesdays and Wednesdays). Do not miss the appetizers- especially the well-above-average spring rolls and potstickers (served on their own individual tiny hammocks). The peking duck is 95% hit, 5% miss, but we’ll take those odds any day. Weekends do get very busy. You can bring your own wine for a corkage fee, and definitely reserve in advance. The best table is the one closest to the dragon and seats 6.

    Milos

    Overall: Highly Consider

    Service: 8.5/10    Atmosphere: 8.5/10    Food: 9/10    Wine: 8.5/10

    While we both love this restaurant located in The Venetian (especially for a long lunch)- this is Jess’s #1 in Vegas (Gio’s might be Javier’s). Go for the healthy, Mediterranean fare in an upscale setting with hospitality to match. Our favorite fish (which you can pick from yourself from) is the Fagri- a type of snapper- prepared with salt crust and a side of fresh veggies. Hummus and tzatziki plus the stack of zucchini and eggplant is not to be missed. Do not rush this lunch- sit back and enjoy. Ask the somm for a nice Greek assyrtiko that is (specifiacally) not too acidic- for a perfect white wine pairing (and say hello for us). Good for groups of any size, especially for a high-end lunch.

    Javier’s

    Overall: Recommend

    Service: 7/10   Atmosphere: 7/10    Food: 9/10    Beverage: 8/10

    This Vegas outpost of the famous Orange County upscale Mexican restaurant is Gio’s must-do Vegas lunch, located in the Aria hotel. It gets busy- so either go early to snag bar seats or make a reservation to be safe. Must orders: Chile Verde & Camarones con Rajas. If you don’t put the rice in the extra sauce on the camarones, we will judge your culinary tastes poorly. The beans are also worth a taste or 10.

    Sinatra

    Overall: Recommend

    Service: 8.5/10   Atmosphere: 8/10    Food: 8.5/10    Beverage: 8/10

    This is our Vegas Italian recommendation- and, yes, we know you are thinking that there are better places (Carbone & the like) but our vote is for Sinatra at the Wynn. This is the least annoying place in a great location- and the last time we went the food was 10/10 (we have been many times, but we will definitely have to up the food rating if it is as good next time). We highly recommend the veal parmigiana, and if you are going to have good Italian dessert anywhere- this is the place. The bar gets very busy, and it seems the bartenders hold spots for locals, so definitely make a reservation. We have always sat at a table here and it is good for groups.

    Top Bars

    Delilah

    Overall: Consider

    Service: 5/10   Atmosphere: 8/10   Bar Program: 7/10

    Reservations are close to mandatory for this jazz bar/supper club hybrid and they will likely try to make you commit to dinner to secure a table- we recommend that you don’t… but the chicken tenders are your best bet, if you do. Jess likes Delilah because it’s more of a scene than your typical bar, but way chiller than a nightclub. Gio does not usually like it here, but he highly recommends stopping for a drink after dinner at Wing-Lei next door. This is one of the more popular spots in Vegas, so it can either be fun or annoying depending on the crowd.

    Overall: Recommend

    Service: 6/10   Atmosphere: 7.5/10   Bar Program: 7/10

    Call us old all you want, but if you know we are in Vegas- this is where you will find us. This dueling piano bar is one of our all time favorites and highly dependent on the crowd, but always a good pre- or post-dinner drink spot.

    Icebar

    Overall: Recommend

    Service: 6/10   Atmosphere: 8.5/10   Bar Program: 6/10

    Perfect stop on a boiling hot day in Vegas, if you ask us! This literally frozen bar feels like stepping into a bear’s igloo, and we can vouch that this has cured hangovers.

    Juliet

    Overall: Consider

    Service: 7/10    Atmosphere: 7/10    Bar Program: 7/10

    Also known as The Dorsey, this Venetian hotel cocktail lounge is our favorite place to spend an afternoon when the weather outside keeps us away from the pools. If you’re in a large group, we recommend getting a table over by the bookshelves.

    More Restaurants & Bars...

    Overall: Worth A Visit

    Service: 7/10    Atmosphere: 7.5/10    Food: 8/10    Beverage Program: 7.5/10

    While this is absolutely our favorite Carbone location, we are a little tired of Carbone and prefer going to Sinatra’s during our Vegas stays. Still, it is worth going to- especially if you have never visited Carbone. Reservations mandatory- book them early. The spicy rigatoni is as good as everyone says it is.

    Overall: Worth Going Off-Strip For

    Service: 9/10    Atmosphere: 7.5/10    Food: 8/10    Beverage Program: 7/10

    While we don’t plan on going off-strip that often, we might actually go very intentionally in the future to go back to Raku- a strip mall bar/tapas joint with some of the best jamon iberico and even better service. It’s trendy, it is small, it is clean, it’s fun. We accidentally found this place when we arrived way too early for omakase next door (see Kabuto Edomae in ‘notable places’ below), so we only tried the iberico and a few delicious snacks. But we also went back after because the bar staff was so fun. One day, we should probably go back for a full dinner. They are open late, and they have Guinness on draft… so… I mean…

    Overall: Recommend

    Service: 7.5/10    Atmosphere: 7.5/10    Food: 7.5/10     Beverage Program: 8/10

    Great for a late lunch, Cirpiani in the Wynn Shops is a stop we certainly recommend and usually visit once per trip for a casual lunch. We have not needed reservations when we visited in the past. Nothing quite beats a Vegas hangover like an Aperol Spritz and deep fried zucchini chips- just make sure not to look at the moving ocean through the “windows”.

    Overall: Definitely Recommend

    Not reviewing

    We don’t think it would be fair to review these restaurants, because we haven’t been since before Covid- however, we definitely recommend both of these spots. The main Joel Robuchon offers our favorite fine dining experience in Vegas and lives up to what you would expect from this highly-acclaimed French chef. L’Atelier is next door and offers similarly thoughtful food in a more casual (yet dark and moody) bistro atmosphere. We will have to return for proper ratings!

    Overall: Recommend

    Service: 7.5/10    Atmosphere: 5.5/10    Food: 7/10     Beverage Program: NA

    This is definitely an old school place and is certainly not known for having a younger crowd. The caviar pasta is really good, and this is worth a visit if you want a solid place to relax with nice service. We did not look at the wine list during our dinner, so we can’t rate it.

    Overall: Recommend

    Service: 7/10    Atmosphere: 6/10    Food: 7/10     Beverage Program: 6/10

    The perfect lunch spot if you can’t decide which type of asian food you want- Mizumi offers sushi, Thai and Chinese in a comfortable location wedged between Encore and Wynn.

    Overall: Depends…

    Service: 6.5/10    Atmosphere: 6/10    Food: 7.5/10     Beverage Program: 7/10

    If we were to rate our favorite Nobus around the world (#1 is Malibu, #2 is Cabo), Nobu Vegas wouldn’t come close to the top of the list. Still, it is a Nobu, so the food is solid and we recommend stopping by if you are in Vegas for a while.

    Overall: Worth a Visit

    Service: 7/10    Atmosphere: 6/10    Food: 7.5/10     Beverage Program: 6/10

    For casual Chinese food (we recommend lunch), Red8 is a solid stop. Make sure to order the pea shoots if they have them.

    This is mostly included for our friends out there that go to places like E11even in Miami. This is a pool party at Sapphire, and if you like pool parties and you like Vegas clubs, this is worth looking into because you can get a cabana and lounge out (shockingly, yes you can relax, but you can also make it a party for large groups), for next to nothing. It’s oddly quite chill and comfortable.

    Overall: Depends…

    Not rated

    For larger groups and more of a party atmosphere, we do recommend having dinner at Tao and doing the seasonal brunch at Lavo (especially if you enjoy dancing on tables after eating). Marquee is the definition of a nightclub- and we recommend the cabanas at their summer pool parties.

    Overall: Recommend

    Service: 7/10    Atmosphere: 7/10    Food: 7/10     Beverage Program: 7/10

    We often stop by here to get our sushi fix in Vegas. It is chill, comfortable, and the food is overall good though not highly memorable.

    Overall: Depends…

    Not reviewing

    Depending on the night, XS can be really fun. While we aren’t really club people, this has turned out to be our nightclub of choice when in Vegas. Make sure to contact a promoter ahead of time to avoid the lines.

    Hotels

    While we almost always stay at the Wynn, we have stayed at Aria before and do recommend it (especially because Javier’s is located downstairs). However, we don’t really love the overall vibe as much as we do the Wynn (it seems less high-end and is usually much more crowded).

    This is one of the newest (if not the newest) luxury hotels on the Las Vegas strip. With that comes some hits and misses. The rooms are decent (but the pillows are the worst of all time). The spa is incredible (but the massages themselves are not the best). The pool is sunny (but very windy and, really, very sunny). And the restaurants are good (but quiet- here’s looking at you Kyu). This seems like a good business hotel, but it’s also nice because it’s new and doesn’t smell like smoke. The bar to your right when you first enter the lobby and before the elevators is great – ask for Sahil and say hello for us. 

    We really enjoyed our last stay at The Palazzo and would likely stay here the next time Wynn is too busy or booked out. There are tons of pools and it is in a great central location on the strip.

    The Wynn is our top hotel choice because the design feels a little higher end and the location is perfect for our favorite restaurants. We have found that it is not as smokey as other hotels, which is also really important to us. And the service is great (though it should be mentioned that if you want late night room service it can take forever).

    This is our preferred location within the Wynn hotel, and the Tower Suites are nicer than the standard Wynn rooms (though we still very happily stay at the Wynn). The biggest perks of staying at the Tower Suites over the standard Wynn rooms includes is the ease of the check-in process, the less-busy elevators, and the higher quality rooms (though they truthfully are only slightly better). Room service is also faster. The bar at the base of the Tower Suites is a great spot, but it does get very busy. There is a separate pool area (no bar) for Tower Suites guests which only seems important when the Wynn is super busy.

    Resorts World is worth mentioning- we visited the property shortly after opening and ran into a couple people who weren’t too happy with their stay. However, it might be worth checking out now that it’s been open a while. Neither of us have ever stayed at The Cosmopolitan without crossing paths with someone throwing up. And it is worth mentioning that while we have not stayed at the Nobu Hotel, we have heard some pretty bad things and do not want to recommend it to friends (though we highly recommend the Nobu Hotel in Cabo).

    Tourism & Travel Notes

    This interactive show Atomic Saloon is a fun adult night-time act that combines circus performances, cabaret, and a lot of other random things. Do not volunteer for the sword activity- Jess did this believing it was a simple magic show and had to literally pull a sword out of a man’s throat on stage. Point is: we recommend going, but highly do not recommend volunteering. Hide.

    Ubers are the way to go, and taxis are usually fine. If both are taking too long, you can usually pay the hotel for one of their house cars or limos at the last minute. House cars are the best airport transfer, Ubers a close second.

    Notable Places Visited & Not Reviewed

    Capo Italian: Quite gimmicky and off-strip, this Italian spot does offer good live music and garlic bread. Good for families & grandparents. Do bring your own wine. Durango Hotel: This off-strip hotel is very clean and new, and we would recommend it for those looking to stay on property and never venture out. Joe’s Seafood at Caesars: Pretty much your standard Joe’s Stone Crab vibe, good for lunch at the shops. Kabuto Edomae Sushi: Very solid off-stip omakase, but nothing wildly memorable. KYU: Completely different from KYU Miami and KYU Mexico City (which we both love), KYU Vegas is really, oddly quiet. The layout is very “chill”, so it’s certainly not a vibey atmosphere and might be better for a mellow weekday work trip dinner. Maybe they will change this. However, the food is outstanding. The duck is a must-order. Momofuku: Average. Mott 32: Way too oily peking duck. The Mayfair Supper Club: We enjoyed visiting this place for drinks. It is a bit loud and definitely a scene but we had a fun time overall and would return. Top of the World: It’s super touristy, but that can be good for some. We don’t not recommend it, if you get what we mean. Members-Only Chinese Dining: Not really a huge point in reviewing this place at the top of The Palazzo, but if you do get the invite it is worth a visit. WAKUDA: Gio’s sister really likes this place, but we don’t.

    GREAT MOMENTS

    Gio and his sister exploring the members club at Palazzo
    Gio and his sister exploring the members club at Palazzo
    Carbone with the family
    Carbone with the family
    Joel Robuchon
    Joel Robuchon
    Our favorite fishmonger at Milos
    Our favorite fishmonger at Milos
    Adventure is out there
    Adventure is out there
    Behind Mayfair Supper Club
    Behind Mayfair Supper Club
    The Villas by Wynn Tower Suites
    The Villas by Wynn Tower Suites
    View from the Chinese restaurant at The Palazzo
    View from the Chinese restaurant at The Palazzo
    Vegas mimosas
    Vegas mimosas
    Milos may not look perfect, but it is perfect
    Milos may not look perfect, but it is perfect
    Beautiful dumplings at Wing Lei
    Beautiful dumplings at Wing Lei
    Gio and Jess's sister enjoying Javier's cosmos
    Gio and Jess's sister enjoying Javier's cosmos
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  • Tokyo & Osaka, Japan

    Japan is a world of it’s own and a must-see for any sushi-living globe trotter. Some of the best bars in Japan are in Osaka- including a favorite Bar Nayuta. And you might be surprised to learn the bar in Lost in Translation is not actually a physical bar, but a communal table at the Park Hyatt. We think the best tempura is at Tsunahachi in Shinjuku, Tokyo. And our biggest piece of advice is to learn a little Japanese before you go (Jess’s useful Japanese essentials are listed below).

    Traveling around Asia? Check out our complete Singapore Guide.

    Don’t know what to pack? Here’s Jess’s Packing List.

    Top Restaurants

    WAJO (Osaka)

    Overall: Highly Recommend

    Service: 9.5/10    Atmosphere: 10/10    Food: 9/10    Beverage Program: NA (Sommelier pairing was very good)

    Located on a high floor of the St. Regis Osaka, and overlooking the city below, this dining experience takes Teppanyaki to the next level. In semi-private to private dining rooms, you have a personal chef preparing delicious bites- ranging from cold appetizers to grilled meats and vegetables- on a mini-kitchen in front of you. Truly, if you want a fine-dining experience with good food- this is our top recommendation in all of Japan. (Jess isn’t the biggest steak person, and she ate every bite of her wagyu). We did the basic set menu with the sommelier pairing. It really doesn’t get much better than this.

    Musashi by Aman (Tokyo)

    Overall: Highly Recommend

    Service: 8.5/10    Atmosphere: 7/10    Food: 9/10    Beverage Program: 8/10

    This was our favorite omakase in Japan. Master Chef Musashi takes great pride in his fish and seaweed quality, but especially cares about his rice (he beamed with pride when Jess mentioned she liked the texture). It turns out, he is famous for growing the rice himself. There was also a delicious eel hand roll that we are not sure we will ever forget. This quiet sushi bar is located in the highly luxurious Aman hotel (they only let hotel guests in, so if your reservation is at 7pm… you get let in at 7pm… however, if you simply ‘pretend’ that it is earlier, you sneak in and have a drink at their stunning bar beforehand). 

    Tsunahachi in Shinjuku Tempura (Tokyo)

    Overall: Highly Recommend

    Service: 8/10   Atmosphere: 7.5/10    Food: 9/10    Beverage: 2/10

    This walk-in only tempura spot was recommended to us by our hotel concierge as the ‘number 1 must-eat’. Two reasons we almost didn’t go: We don’t love the idea of fried food for a whole meal, and we are definitely not line people. But at the high recommendation, we decided to give it a try. We arrived in line before their 11am opening for lunch, which we recommend doing (the wait can be very long), and we were in the first seating. This was the best tempura we have had in our lives, and it was so light that we felt great afterwards. We did not feel that gross fried-food feeling, and I think that is a testament to the chefs (which you can watch from the counter) and their centuries-old recipes. Do not order the one burgundy- stick to sake.

    Oryori Hayashi Kaiseki (Kyoto)

    Overall: Highly Recommend

    Service: 9.5/10   Atmosphere: 8.5/10    Food: 9/10    Beverage: NA

    This Kaiseki traditional lunch in Kyoto was so incredible that it’s hard to put into words. If we were in charge of giving Michelin stars away, we would certainly give this place 2. Tucked into a tiny building that feels more like a house, we were sat in a tiny room upstairs where you sit on cushions on the floor and drop your feet into a lowered section under the table. This is a multi-course sensory experience containing small bites of both raw and cooked traditional Japanese dishes. Fun fact: Gio was not a big uni fan before this, but the uni dish changed him. It is (and will probably forever be) the best uni either of us have ever had in our lives. 

    This is the only restaurant we visited in Kyoto. We hired a driver in Osaka and it took about one hour to get to Kyoto (be careful with your timing, however, with traffic it took us much longer to get back).

    Top Bars

    Bar Nayuta (Osaka)

    Overall: Highly Recommend

    Service: 9.5/10   Atmosphere: 8.5/10   Bar Program: 9/10

    This no-reservations bar is run by a creative/grungy Osakan with an Australian accent, and it is great. A bit difficult to find, it is best to search for the logo from their instagram and go from there, before tucking under a short door (an old Japanese bar tradition to keep people’s swords out of bars). There is no menu. The bartender listens to what you like a creates an herbal concoction of your dreams. It is like stepping into an apothecary and leaving happily tipsy. Make sure to buy him a drink (which is very common in Japan!)

    L&L Bar (Osaka)

    Overall: Recommend

    Service: 9/10    Atmosphere: 6/10    Bar Program: 5/10

    We watched the World Cup here (and visited at least 2 other times because we loved it so much). This casual bar has the best service and no one ever seems to like sitting at the actual bar (many large groups sit at tables)- so we got two bar seats every night. This is a super popular local place, and the service is great- we still follow some of the bartenders on Instagram.

    Bar Qwang (Tokyo)

    Overall: Recommend

    Service: 8/10   Atmosphere: 8/10   Food: 6/10 (fish cakes are a 9)   Bar Program: 8.5/10

    This basement-level bar in the Minato City area of Tokyo is incredibly charming. The bartender is a kind older gentleman who takes great care and caution with each of his cocktails, and his wife cooks up delicious bites in the back kitchen. We went two nights in a row.

    Bar B&F (Tokyo)

    Overall: Recommend

    Service: 8/10   Atmosphere: 7/10    Bar Program: 8/10

    This sister bar of the famous Benfiddich, which we were not fans of (exclusively for tourists). This bar has more locals, and an Irish-theme, which we enjoy. We visited during the winter, so the Irish music in this comfortable spot felt right. There is no menu, but there are English speaking bartenders. They have hard to find spirits we love such as Silent Pool and Martin Millers (our favorite!)

    More Restaurants & Bars...

    Overall: Worth A Visit

    Cannot rate, too variable

    There are hundreds of bars in this Tokyo neighborhood, where you can walk from street to street and stop into whatever bar calls to you. A few bars will have signs saying ‘no foreigners’, and that should be respected. Be mindful of Japanese customs, if a bar is silent- it generally wants to stay silent… if a bar is loud- feel free to have fun being loud as well.

    Overall: Worth A Stop

    Service: 8   Atmosphere: 7  Beverage Program: 7

    One of the few Tokyo bars that will actually let you tip, Bar Logue is a small and dark spot with good drinks and bartenders. Snacks are served at most Japanese bars, along with your drink. The snacks here are great- smoked duck and smoked Gouda with a perfect, tiny chocolate fudge piece.

    Directions- take the stairs to the 3rd floor 3F when you see the street poster for Bar Logue. 

    Overall: Worth A Stop

    Service: 7/10    Atmosphere: 7/10    Bar Program: 7/10

    A tight classic cocktail bar with an experienced bartender, the smell of cigars.

    Directions- 3F look for yellow sign with bar name and follow inside to the elevator on your right. The first thing they will ask is for a cover charge (like most Tokyo bars). Say yes then take a seat.

    Overall: Worth A Visit

    Service: 8/10     Atmosphere: GOTH   Beverage Program: 5/10

    Honestly, this is worth going to just for the story.

    Overall: Highly Recommend… if you like street food

    Cannot rate, highly variable

    Memory Lane is a famous road of many hawker-like shops within a small and charming street. We went on a Wednesday and had a great time, but imagine it would get very busy on weekends. Most shops have a small counter with an open kitchen, and barely any wiggle room. Simply find a shop you like, signal how many seats you want, and every one will slide down to make space for you (this is expected of you, too). This street is not for the faint of heart- there are cockroaches and public toilets and probably a lot of things we were lucky not to see. The locals love it though, and a tip is to look for a shop with many businessmen enjoying their meals. We would go back in a heartbeat.

    This was our favorite spot, make sure to order the tiny crunchy shrimp, and try to speak as much Japanese as you can (it is polite, and they also don’t speak English).

    Overall: Worth A Stop… if you love Irish Pubs

    Not rating

    We had a great time here, and it is a nice spot for a drink when you’e bored in Osaka. Ring the bell and you buy everyone a the bar a drink.

    Overall: Recommend

    Service: 6/10   Atmosphere: 7/10   Food: 7.5/10   Wine list: 4/10 (limited)

    This Shinjuki City Chinese restaurant is perfect if you get a little tired of sushi. We would recommend skipping the peking duck, and making sure to order the soup dumplings. There is a language barrier, but the staff is helpful and does try their best. Overall, the food is good- after all, we did go twice.

    Overall: Recommend

    Service: 7/10   Atmosphere: 6.5/10   Food: 7/10   Beverage Program: 7/10

    It may seem silly to go to a Nobu when in Japan, but after so many omakases it is truly wonderful to order sushi a la carte. This is not our favorite Nobu (which is a tie between Malibu and Cabo), but it is definitely good. And they have more sakes outside of the Nobu-only selection, which is a plus.Lunch does last call for food at 2pm and drinks at 2:30pm, you can order their dinner a la carte menu at lunch if you ask for it.

    Overall: Recommend

    Service: 6/10   Atmosphere: 6/10   Food: 9/10   Beverage Program: 3/10

    Who would have thought it took a trip to Tokyo to find one of the best pizzas we have ever had? Not kidding. The world being small, the chef-owner trained in pastry at the Culinary Institute near where we live. The pizza crust proves this. It is really, really good. This casual pizza spot is reminiscent of childhood pizza arcades, and it gets very busy, especially on weekends.

    Overall: Worth A Visit… if you’re bored and have low expectations

    Service: 9/10    Atmosphere: 3/10    Food: 6.5/10   Bar Program: 5/10

    We found this bar out of desperation on a very cold and windy day in Osaka, when not much was open. It is located on the basement, 2 floors down, and you can see the signage by a giant Monster energy drink ad sign (which should explain the atmosphere ranking). But Rudy… oh Rudy. Our entire time in Osaka was changed for the better by entering this bar. In addition to giving us great recommendations for the city (including L&L Bar), Rudy joined us in several drinks as we tried Israeli wine and ate some of the best hummus of all time.

    Overall: Recommend

    Service: 9.5/10   Atmosphere: 6.5/10   Food: 8/10   Beverage Program: NA (Sake pairing was enjoyable)

    Hosted by the kindest and most adorable sushi chef (he jokingly made us a baby maybe 3cm sushi roll when we said we were starting to get full), Sushi Minazuke offers one of our favorite omakase experiences in Japan. While the rice did lean a little vinegar-y, it was certainly the most fun omakase we’ve experienced in Japan. We did get lost trying to find it: Go to the address and you will find it on the left side, in the front of the building, on the ground floor.

    Hotels

    After watching Lost in Translation, it’s hard not to be tempted to stay at the Park Hyatt Tokyo in Shinjuku. It was a nice hotel, and the gym was lovely (the pool was really just used as a lap pool)… but it definitely felt more like a business hotel and the walkable area matched that. We probably wouldn’t stay again, mostly because the bar in the movie does not have an actual bar counter (the one you see in the movie is a communal high top). 

    We can’t imagine a better hotel in Osaka than the St. Regis. And while everything did smell a little like cigarette smoke, everything in Japan smells a little like cigarette smoke. We would definitely recommend this hotel. The bar is lovely and we enjoyed every restaurant.

    Not recommended.

    This is definitely the busiest and one of the most outdated Ritz Carltons we have stayed at. The TV had a VCR player. The piano bar was highly enjoyable.

    We stayed at the Grand Hyatt or a quick stop at the end of our time in Japan. It was fine, the check-in process was difficult, but the room was lovely and there was a lot going on. However, this part of the city (Minato) has a lot of traffic, so getting to the airport was incredibly difficult.

    We would recommend looking into the Aman Tokyo, which had a lovely bar and restaurant (Musashi). It looked to be one of the nicest hotels in Tokyo, with great quality design and security. Additionally, we did not go to the Marunouchi area, but they have several luxury hotel options and we heard good things about the area as a whole.

    Tourism & Travel Notes

    It is important to note that the train from Tokyo to Osaka requires 2 tickets. You need 1 ticket to get into the station, and a separate ticket for your actual train. We did not know how to do this and we still do not know.

    If you are a tall, large person (like us) it is important to know that there are many, many places in Japan that you simply… might not fit, literally. You will be uncomfortable. There are certain things that may not work for you (Memory Lane, many bars, some elevators, train seats, traditional kaiseki rooms…). Consider this as you plan your trip to Japan.

    There are a few things we learned about Japanese culture while we were there. It was really helpful to learn/memorize a bit of Japanese beforehand (Jess forgot her iPad and the plane had no TV’s, so she was left with her downloaded Japanese podcasts and learned en-route). Tipping can be considered offensive in many places, but almost every bartender will let you buy them a drink– and they’ll drink it with you! Stay off your phone, especially in restaurants. You must ask sushi chefs if it is okay to take a picture. Also, in high-end omakase settings, you are expected to eat every bite of sushi placed in front of you (this includes the standard pickled mackerel)- if you don’t, you might stop being served. If you do get soy sauce- dip fish first. Obviously, do not rub your chopsticks together. Also, it is very uncomfortable for many Japanese people to say no– so if you want to sneak into a bar at the Aman, for example, being slightly pushy (but respectuful) does work.

    These pronunciations are simply Jess’s way of pronouncing/hearing what is being said- they are certainly not spelled correctly or even phonetically correct- but when spoken how it is written out, it is clear.

    Hi, thank you, excuse me, (get attention)- “Domo arigato”

    Yes – hi

    No – iye

    Excuse me – Sumi ma same

    Please- oneg ay shi mas

    Thank you- arigato cosai mas (Tokyo)….. Oh kai-knee (Osaka)

    See you later- matanee

    Goodbye- sayonara

    Check- okai kay (,oneg Ay shi mas)

    Delicious!- oyshi!

    Very delicious! – metcha oyshi (apparently this is very bad Japanese though)

    That was delicious- gotso sama deshda

    2 people- ni men

    Is that okay?- ee desca?

    This please- Cordei ku da sai

    I humbly receive- Eeee te dai ke mas

    Help me- paskete kuda sai

    Bathroom? – toilewa toko desca?

    Where is ___? – ___ toko desca?

    Good morning- Ohio

    Good afternoon- konichiwa

    Good evening- kon ban wa

    Hi- Yah

    Don’t speak Japanese- no homo okari ma sang

    I don’t understand- wakari ma sang

    English?- engowo?

    I’m sorry- comen na sai

    Credit card- credito cardo… 🙂

    English menu- Engano menu

    Wi-Fi- Wi-Fiwa ari musca

    Password- passwordawo… 🙂

    I’ll take one- Sorewo kuda sai

    Non-smoking- king en

    What is this? – Correva nan desca?

    You’re welcome- doi deshi mashde

    Nice to meet you- haji me mashde

    How to eat? – tabe kata wa?

    What do you recommend? – Nani ga ossu su ne desca?

    Let’s eat- eatah dakimas

    That is delicious- totemo oishides

    Water- mizu

    Two- (g)ni

    How do you say- nan te imasco

    And/also- tO

    Glass- curasai

    Umm…- edo..

    It is here- tokorai desca

    Notable Places Visited & Not Reviewed

    TOKYO- Bar Benfiddich: It took forever to get a seat, and once we sat we were surrounded by Americans. The cocktails were standard. Shinjuku Makoto: Quality neighborhood omakase, but we were way too jetlagged to rate fairly. Spirits Bar Sunface: 10th floor directly above Benfiddich, good tequilla and rum bar but we were only there for a quick drink. Yakiniku Ikuta: Avoid. Irish Pub An Solas: Standard Irish pub. Brussels Beer Project: Nice casual gastropub next door to an Udon place that smelled amazing but the line was too long for us. Tusk: Average bar with good popcorn. Sushiya Ichiyanagi: We almost never say awful things about a place, but we have nothing but awful things to say about this place. Definitely do not go. OSAKA– Captain Kangaroo: Average bar. Banjara: Decent Indian food with good poppadom, but iffy service. Bar Fort Horse: Cocktails in the subway station, not bad.

    favorite moments

    Bar B&F
    Bar B&F
    Tokyo streets
    Tokyo streets
    Toro at Sushi Minazuke
    Toro at Sushi Minazuke
    Sushi Minazuke has the sweetest chef!
    Sushi Minazuke has the sweetest chef!
    Loving WAJO Teppanyaki
    Loving WAJO Teppanyaki
    Gio happy at WAJO Teppanyaki
    Gio happy at WAJO Teppanyaki
    WAJO Teppanyaki Strawberry dessert with the freshest strawberries of all time!
    WAJO Teppanyaki Strawberry dessert with the freshest strawberries of all time!
    Japan has the cleanest ice
    Japan has the cleanest ice
    Watching the World Cup at L&L
    Watching the World Cup at L&L
    Being touristy in Kyoto
    Being touristy in Kyoto
    Stunning private room at Oryori Hayashi Kaiseki in Kyoto
    Stunning private room at Oryori Hayashi Kaiseki in Kyoto
    Bar Nayuta
    Bar Nayuta
    Gio very excited about Murphy's Irish Pub 'by the bar a round' bell
    Gio very excited about Murphy's Irish Pub 'by the bar a round' bell
    Jess very happy at Bar Nayuta
    Jess very happy at Bar Nayuta
    One of our favorite bartenders at L&L
    One of our favorite bartenders at L&L
    Delicious little shrimp at Memory Lane
    Delicious little shrimp at Memory Lane
    Our favorite spot on Memory Lane
    Our favorite spot on Memory Lane
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