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  • Honolulu, Hawaii

    Honolulu is a great destination, but also we love it because Waikiki is such a convenient place to stay for a few days on our yearly trip to Maui, or on our way to Asia. With the best prime rib we’ve had in our lives (Hy’s steakhouse), and one of the classiest bartenders (Wayne at Lewers Lounge), Waikiki is worth a visit.

    Interested in Hawaii? See our full Maui Guide here.

    Don’t know what to pack? Here’s Jess’s Packing List.

    Top Restaurants

    Hy’s Steakhouse

    Overall: Highly Recommend

    Service: 8/10    Atmosphere: 8.5/10    Food: 8/10    Beverage Program: 7.5/10

    This is our #1 recommendation for Waikiki. Reservations are strongly recommended, and there is a dress code: Men must wear a collared shirt. No flip flops.

    Hy’s manages to feel cozy and intimate despite being a rather large steakhouse. There are shelves with books, wooden paneling, atmospheric music (often live), and – quite importantly – a great bar and lounge area. In addition to lovely staff, there is some solid food. They have all the steakhouse classics. However, the real star is the prime rib with cajun seasoning – it is the best we’ve ever had. There are only 6 bar seats, so it fills up fast, but there is a trick for booking these bar seats – you can book happy hour. The latest reservation for bar seats is 6:15PM, but it is worth snagging and going early. 

    Top Bars

    Lewers Lounge

    Overall: Highly Recommend

    Service: 8.5/10   Atmosphere: 8/10   Food: 1/10   Bar Program: 8.5/10

    Lewers Lounge is an upscale piano bar located in the Halekulani hotel, that opens at 7PM nightly. We like this bar so much that it might actually be the only bar we’ve been to in Waikiki for our last 3 trips. Wayne is a talented bartender (who may be approaching 80 years old), and he moves with tai-chi grace that is amazing to watch. The piano players are similarly graceful. The dark and moody atmosphere reminds us of Tokyo. Just go already. It’s a great place (aside from the food, absolutely do not order the cheese plate – ours was entirely rind). 

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    Overall: Recommend

    Service: 8/10     Atmosphere: 7/10     Food: 8/10      Beverage: 6/10

    A great omakase in Honolulu, Amaterasu was only a few months old when we visited, but it was such a good choice (both Sushi Gyoshin and Amaterasu were basically equally good, only the uni was better at Gyoshin). Chef Hide offered very fresh fish, and we enjoyed every single bite. Everything was very balanced (no bite was too vinegary, for example). They had 2 bottles of sake on the menu only, but the first bottle (white label with black writing) was dry and worked well for us. We went for lunch, and the lunch omakase was plenty filling. It is a little hard to find – this is downstairs on the bottom floor (parking garage level) of the Ala Moana Center mall, somewhat tucked underneath the staircase.

    Overall: A Good Stop

    Service: 9/10     Atmosphere: 6.5/10     Food: 6.5/10      Beverage: 6/10

    For casual Korean BBQ in Waikiki, Hangang is a good choice – especially if service trumps atmosphere for you, or you are new to Korean BBQ. When we went, everyone was really nice and explained their favorite dishes and cuts of meat, plus helped with most of the grilling. You could tell the employees were naturally quite good on the hospitality front. We enjoyed the marinated ribs and skirt steak bbq (skip the jachae and the kimchi was just okay). 

    Overall: Recommend

    Service: 8/10     Atmosphere: 8/10     Food: 8/10      Beverage: 0/10 (it’s BYOB)

    Sushi Gyoshin is a 7-seat BYOB omakase and the hardest reservation to get in Waikiki. It’s booked out months in advance, so do keep that in mind when you’re planning your Honolulu trip. Chef Hiroshi procures fresh fish from both Tokyo and Hawaii. We enjoyed the flavors of each bite and even found ourselves liking fish we normally are less excited about, which might have been the most impressive part. The uni was especially good. Overall, it’s a solid omakase and worth the visit if you can secure a reservation, but it’s not worth being upset if you can’t get in. People bring a wide variety of their own drinks, from wine to sake (we got our sake at The Sake Shop), and share with the chef. 

    Overall: Go if you need BYOB sake

    Not rating

    If you are dining at Sushi Gyoshin or another BYOB Japanese spot, you can stop by The Sake Shop to pick up bottles of sake. The owner is a sweet woman who seems to know everything there is about the sake she is selling, and she will certainly point you in the right direction. (No sake tasting).

    Hotels

    We are creatures of habit when it comes to Honolulu, and as creatures of habit we stay at the Halekulani Waikiki. This hotel has pretty much all we need. The bar at Lewers Lounge is lovely, the rooms are clean and spacious (with thoughtful touches like benches for low sinks), the pool has good service, there is a gym and small spa, and the ocean view is expansive. We’re happy here.

    We took a tour of Prince Waikiki and it was a little out of the way for us personally, as we try to be as close to walking distance to our favorite restaurants as possible. We stayed at the Ka La’i many years ago, back when it was a Trump hotel. It is not located directly on the beach and it had double elevators to get to the room, which is a small pet peeve. In most cities we switch hotels a lot, but for Waikiki will 99.99% likely stick to the Halekulani.

    Tourism & Travel Notes

    This fun glow in the dark mini golf spot is a fun way to spend a rainy afternoon. It was practically empty when we went, which just made it more fun. It’s a quick stop.

    Notable Places Visited & Not Reviewed

    Bar Leather Apron: The reservation booking proved too annoying for us this last trip. We will see about next time. Kirin Chinese: We had both an excellent lunch and a horrible dinner here, so we can’t recommend it, but we still might return in the future. We are also confused about it. STIX Food Court: Fun spot. There is a good bahn mi in there. Taormina Sicilian: The hostesses are a little unaware, so be prepared, but aside from that this place can be good if you’re craving Italian. It gets busy. Tim Ho Won: Skip.

    favorite moments

    Scallops at Hy's steakhouse
    Scallops at Hy's steakhouse
    the infamous cajun prime rib at Hy's Steakhouse
    the infamous cajun prime rib at Hy's Steakhouse
    Amaterasu Sushi Honolulu
    Amaterasu Sushi Honolulu
    Hanggang banchan spread
    Hanggang banchan spread
    Sushi Gyoshin
    Sushi Gyoshin
    Sushi Gyoshin bite
    Sushi Gyoshin bite
    Jess and her shark at GlowPutt mini golf
    Jess and her shark at GlowPutt mini golf
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  • Ho Chi Minh, Vietnam

    Ho Chi Minh is a vibrant city with an unmatched food culture. Known for their healthy and fresh approach to ingredients, you can find some of the best bited in tiny unnamed food stalls, if only you’re up for the adventure. Having been to Ho Chi Minh multiple times, we have a relatively small list of recommendations – this is because we want to keep this as up to date as possible and a lot of the city’s countless secret treasures are best explored spontaneously.

    Traveling Asia? See our very detailed Singapore guide here.

    Don’t know what to pack? Here’s Jess’s Packing List.

    Top Restaurants

    Vietnam House

    Overall: Recommend

    Service: 7.5/10   Atmosphere: 7.5/10   Food: 7/10    Beverage Program: 6/10

    Known for their popular Vietnamese/Australian chef-owner, Vietnam House usually pops up on most tourists restaurant list, and with good reason. They offer solid Vietnamese staples in a contemporary and comfortable setting (yes, they have AC). This is a great spot for first timers to the city, looking to sample all the delicious items Southern Vietnam has to offer, without immediately needing to hop on a tiny street stool to do so. Our ratings for this may not look high, but part of that is just because of the way we rate (we are comparing each restaurant to others all over the world). For Ho Chi Minh, Vietnam House is a great stop. We have returned for lunch every time we’ve been to Ho Chi Minh, sometimes even twice per trip. Must order: netted pork spring rolls.

    Sushi Rei

    Overall: Highly Recommend

    Service: 8.5/10    Atmosphere: 8/10    Food: 8.5/10    Beverage List: 7.5/10 (sake)

    One of the better omakase experiences we have had. Sushi Rei delivers a luxury setting, high quality fish, friendly staff, and the coolest sushi menu we have ever seen (a book including pictures of each fish that the chef took himself). They offer a variety of omakase courses (inquire at [email protected]) and we went with the signature course called ‘Rei’. It should be noted that despite Vietnam being incredibly (incrediblyyyy) cost efficient as a whole, this omakase is on par with other major Asian city prices. Additionally, it is a little hard to find, but the staff waits outside looking for you, and also escorts you afterwards to your car/Grab. Anyways, we loved it. Would certainly return and likely will.

    74 Bahn Mi

    Overall: Recommend

    Service: 6/10   Atmosphere: 4/10    Food: 9/10    

    This place has some of the best Bahn Mi sandwiches in the world, and it appears that – when we went – no one else had realized this. Tucked at the end of an alley across the road from the Park Hyatt, this Bahn Mi food truck offers delicious sandwiches (for to go or to eat on their set-up tables) starting at 8AM. We stumbled over for breakfast every day on our last trip (we are not breakfast people, but bahn mi’s are the kings of breakfast). Highly recommend the lemongrass beef bahn mi, and the spicy chicken one. The iced thai tea was also such a treat! It should be said that there are tons of bahn mi spots scattered on most streets of Ho Chi Minh, but if you are staying near the Park Hyatt – please go here and tell us all about it so we can reminisce. 

    Top Bars

    Summer Experiment

    Overall: Recommend

    Service: 7.5/10   Atmosphere: 7.5/10   Bar Program: 8.5/10

    Summer Experiment is a young, hip, Asia’s top 50 bar with a very cool cocktail program and nice bartenders. It is well known as one of Ho Chi Minh’s best bars, and it makes sense. We tried somewhere around 8 of their specialty cocktails, which is saying as much about their impressive happy hour as it is about their actual cocktail program. It is located up quite a few flights of stairs, and does have a younger (20s-40s) vibe. We had our concierge make a reservation at opening, but as we went early during off-season we didn’t need it, so it seems you can play that by ear.

    The Enigma Mansion

    Overall: Recommend

    Service: 6.5/10    Atmosphere: 7/10    Bar Program: 6.5/10

    We really liked the Enigma Mansion, famous for being an underground vault-like atmosphere with high ceilings and wooden/brick decor. This bar would do really well in Brooklyn, but it also does really well in HCM. The bar program is pretty standard, but the drinks are nice and the people are friendly. This would be a good spot for larger groups.

    Hotels

    The Park Hyatt Saigon was a good hotel on our recent trip, because it was in a great location (and across the street from great bahn mi). We also loved the pool. The suite itself was spacious, the bed comfortable, the bathrooms maybe slightly outdated. They do have currency exchange at the front desk, which is great because it can be difficult to exchange other foreign currency for baht. Downside: we did not like the bar, so we might look into other hotels next time.

    Tourism & Travel Notes

    We used Grab for everything (basically Uber). Works great. 

    For arrival at the airport, we got an additional fast-track through security + meet/greet car service. The fast-track wasn’t necessary for us, we went through security as quickly as anyone else (which was about 5 mins). That being said, it always depends on how many planes land at once etc. On the other hand, the Park Hyatt was very efficient with the meet-and-greet. The time it took for us to leave security to be actively driving away in the car was also under 5 min, maybe the quickest ever.

    Notable Places Visited & Not Reviewed

    Anan Saigon: This was a major disappointment, but we might have just been very unlucky. The electricity went out. Then the AC went out. This both apparently happens a lot, so they have a generator for one room. Everything else was just… fine. Skip. Nu Lounge: Kind of a hysterical, slightly-seedy-Asian-pop-bar, but it is right across from the Park Hyatt and tons of fun. They let you play your own music/blast the music videos on the screen. Octo Tapas: Skip. Pizza 4 P’s: Very hyped up, but don’t recommend.

    favorite moments

    Gio trying thai tea
    Gio trying thai tea
    Summer Experiment Bar
    Summer Experiment Bar
    Sushi Rei treats
    Sushi Rei treats
    Vietnam House
    Vietnam House
    Bahn mi from our favorite cafe
    Bahn mi from our favorite cafe
    Jess hot during typhoon season at Engima Mansion
    Jess hot during typhoon season at Engima Mansion
    Spring rolls at Vietnam House
    Spring rolls at Vietnam House
    Making friends
    Making friends
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  • Hong Kong

    Hong Kong is an icon in Asia, and manages to feel like a cultural epicenter blending old world and new. With one of the best bar scenes in the world, plus endless food options- Hong Kong should be on everyone’s bucket list. Two tips: There are two sides of Hong Kong – we recommend staying in Central. Also, Black Sheep is the dominant restaurant/hospitality group to keep an eye out for – their restaurants are consistently great.

    Traveling Asia? See our new Taipei guide here.

    Don’t know what to pack? Here’s Jess’s Packing List.

    Top Restaurants

    Man Wah

    Overall: Recommend

    Service: 8.5/10    Atmosphere: 8.5/10    Food: 8/10    Wine List: 7.5/10

    Man Wah is a 25th floor Chinese restaurant in the Mandarin Oriental (central side). This was by far the best Chinese food we had in Hong Kong, plus the soup dumplings (xiao long bao) were the best we have ever had in our lives (we would, however, skip the slightly-gamey peking duck). Man Wah is a high end restaurant with comfortable seating, impressive views, and genuinely nice service. This is the perfect place to go to get acclimated to Hong Kong, or if you just want a nice and delicious lunch – we recommend going all out on the dim sum.

    Prince & The Peacock

    Overall: Recommend

    Service: 8/10   Atmosphere: 8.5/10   Food: 8/10    Beverage Program: 8.5/10

    Prince & The Peacock (central side) is an upscale Indian restaurant located within a private member’s club called The Magistrate. You do not need to be a member to dine at P&P, but you do need a reservation. We loved the naan and curries (do not take a bite of the chilis though, Jess almost died and she’s good with spice). This restaurant is part of the Black Sheep restaurant group, which is a modern and trusted restaurant organization throughout Hong Kong – we specifically noticed that ever Black Sheep restaurant we went to had impeccable service. P&P is comfortable, well designed, and people seem to dress up for the occasion. In addition to having a solid wine list, the sommelier asked about our favorite Semillons and when he recognized the brand we mentioned, he went to a different building to get the off-menu bottle. This place is solid. After dinner, see if a manager can sneak you into Jack’s Racquet Club, a specialty sports bar next door.

    Yakiniku Sho

    Overall: Highly Recommend for Casual Dining

    Service: 8/10   Atmosphere: 7/10    Food: 8.5/10    Beverage: NA

    This Japanese/Korean yakiniku restaurant was one of our favorite meals in Hong Kong (central side). But, that being said, Japanese/Korean yakiniku (higher end BBQ), is always one of our favorite cuisines. If you like having someone grill your meals in front of you, with delicious sides like kimchi and salads, this is for you. We ordered the pricier omakase called ‘I dont think Sho’, and the beef tartar starter course was the best of all time.

    Top Bars

    Caprice Bar

    Overall: Recommend

    Service: 8/10   Atmosphere: 9/10   Bar Program: 7/10

    Caprice Bar at the Four Seasons is where you go for an elegant night out in Hong Kong. Located as part of Caprice (French restaurant with 3 Michelin*), Caprice offers about 6 actual bar seats, and plenty of bar seating. The meat and cheese plate is phenomenal. The furniture is high end and comfortable. This is a great place to go before or after dinner. Beware of natural wine that sprinkles heavily in the list, but other than that it is a standard cocktail bar menu.

    Central Side: 

    Argo – Top 50 hotel bar at the Four Seasons. Worth stopping by for a drink if you are staying there, but we preferred Caprice. Service 6.5/10 Atmosphere 8/10 Drinks 6/10.

    Bourke’s – Recommend. Ask for Aled. Australian/ British hybrid pub next door to Francis West. Service 9/10, Atmosphere 7/10, Beverage 7/10

    Captain’s Bar (Mandarin Oriental) – Recommend. Ask for Johnny. This would be in our top bars if the glassware hadn’t spontaneously combusted while we were there. We would still return. Careful of your cocktail glass. Dark, moody, old school. Service 7.5/10 Atmosphere 8/10 Drinks 7.5/10

    Dead Poet’s Club – Consider. Ask for Mike. Not as grungy as it looks online, kind of fun and modern but no real bar seats. Service 8/10.

    Kinsman – Recommend. Went early on a Saturday and had nice service. Atmosphere leans younger. Beverages use lots of traditional local ingredients. Service 8.5/10 Atmosphere 7.5/10 Drinks 7.5/10.

    Kowloon Side:

    The Bar at The Peninsula – Recommend. Ask for Sebin (pronounced 7). Our favorite bar on Kowloon side. Piano player most nights. Dark, moody. Service varies 6-8/10 Atmosphere 7.5/10 Beverage 8/10. 

    Quora – Consider. Second favorite bar on Kowloon side. Ground-floor view of the river. Must order the truffle grilled cheese sandwich. Service 6.5/10 Atmosphere 7.5/10 Drinks 6/10.

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    Overall: Consider

    Service: 7.5/10    Atmosphere: 6/10    Food: 7.5/10   Beverage: 6.5/10

    If you want a break from Asian flavors and are craving something more unique, Francis West has ‘north African’ flavors (think: Israeli food) that are solid. We went for lunch and the mezze (dips, starters) were amazing (the entrees not quite as great). The vibe was casual, but modern – similar to something you might see in LA. The kitchen bar seats are small and nailed to the ground, but we were comfortable nonetheless and even considered returning.

    Overall: Consider

    Service: 8.5/10   Atmosphere: 7/10    Food: 7/10    Beverage: 8/10

    We went for a quick sushi lunch on our last day in Hong Kong, and really enjoyed Imasa at The Peninsula hotel. In our reservation, we stated we were in a small rush and the host was very gracious with moving the meal along at a good pace. The rainbow roll was delicious (but the bites ginormous), and the tempura was equally solid (sadly, skip the house salad). Imasa does a very good job balancing their menu with something for everyone, while still seeming traditional and higher-end. Additionally, they have an extensive sake menu. This would be a nice stop for a longer meal.

    Overall: It’s fine.

    Service: 7/10   Atmosphere: 7.5/10    Food: 6.5/10    Beverage: 6/10

    It’s a Nobu. Certainly not one of the best ones (Malibu), but also not one of the worst. They also have a nice view on the ground floor overlooking the river, plus sushi counter seats. We honestly had a hard time finding restaurants we loved on the Kowloon side, so we were happy for Nobu.

    Overall: Recommend

    Service: 7.5/10   Atmosphere: 5.5/10   Food: 8.5/10    Beverage: 5/10

    We’re not sure how long this Black Sheep popup will be around, but if you want traditional Chinese food and feel with great flavors, Peng Leng Jang is worth the stop. They are trying to bring back the vibe of dying dai pai dongs (basically street restaurants that are going extinct in Hong Kong) but with the perks of modern life (air conditioning, for example). You need to go in an elevator of what looks like an apartment building, and hit the button with the restaurant sign. It is very casual. You must also order all food at once (which we don’t love). But everything tastes worth it.

    Overall: Consider

    Service: 8.5/10   Atmosphere: 7.5/10    Food: 7.5/10    Beverage: NA

    Another restaurant on the central side, Sushi Zo provides an intimate atmosphere with some pretty solid sushi chefs. We only went for the nigiri lunch (which was plenty filling), but we really appreciated how thoughtful the service and food was (they asked when we sat if we like shiso, etc). It was nice and all the fish was fresh.

    Hotels

    The Four Seasons was the perfect place to stay for us, and we would absolutely return. The Caprice Bar was great (make sure to stay on nights they are open). Highlights were the great pool, gym, views, and comfortable rooms. It is located on the ‘bottom of the hill’ in Central, so walking up to a lot of the restaurants is not feasible. However, plenty of Ubers made this a non-issue.

    The Peninsula Hotel turned out to be a good spot, if you want to stay on the Kowloon side of Hong Kong (we very much prefer the Central side). Highlights were the comfortable indoor pool (with all day food/drink service), the fully-equipped salon, and the large bathroom within the room itself. Downstairs tea in the lobby area can get quite busy.

    Central: We went to the Mandarin Oriental for lunch and a drink (recommend), and it felt a little more outdated than the Four Seasons. Kowloon: We went to The Roosevelt on the Kowloon side serval times for disappointing restaurants and bars. The hotel itself felt new, but busy (reminding us a bit of W hotels back in their hey-day), and we didn’t love the food there so we wouldn’t stay there ourselves. We enjoyed the Peninsula, but the second best option might be the Regent.

    Tourism & Travel Notes

    Do not go too early to the Hong Kong airport, because there is not much to do. The lounges are a bit worse for wear (we flew Cathay), but the lounges were the only places we could find to hang out aside from a food court.

    Uber worked very well throughout Hong Kong and we would recommend it. 

    From the Hong Kong airport, we hired a private driver to take us to our hotel through A168 Limo ([email protected]). We also got the additional meet + greet service for a small added fee. We recommend them and would use them again.

    Notable Places Visited & Not Reviewed

    Central Side – Dragonfly: Don’t go out of your way for it, but it’s not bad. Mandip is a very nice bartender and they open earlier than some other bars nearby. Fiatta Pizza: Skip. Jack’s Racquet Club: They played Formula 1, which was awesome. This is technically members-only but we were able to go after our reservation at Prince & The Peacock. The Old Man: Okay. Heavy on the incense, but contributes to the underground den vibe that some people may like. Most of the cocktails are pre-batched.

    Kowloon Side – Felix: Wild, weird and cool bathrooms, but would skip the restaurant. The food was not ideal. Hutong: Did not like the run-down vibe, so did not stay to eat. room3: Moldy smell. Rosewood Hotel Spots…. CHAAT: Bad food. Take the car to Prince & Peacock instead. Darkside: Skip. Henry: A completely average steakhouse, but it’s fine. xx: Average bar. 

    favorite moments

    Tempura at Imasa
    Tempura at Imasa
    Feast at Yakiniku Sho - about to be cooked to perfection!
    Feast at Yakiniku Sho - about to be cooked to perfection!
    Sushi Zo
    Sushi Zo
    Best beef tartare of all time at Yakiniku Sho
    Best beef tartare of all time at Yakiniku Sho
    Prince & The Peacock for excellent Indian
    Prince & The Peacock for excellent Indian
    Francis West mezze was delish
    Francis West mezze was delish
    Sushi Zo. Love a good tuna hand roll.
    Sushi Zo. Love a good tuna hand roll.
    Gio and our feast at Peng Leng Jeng
    Gio and our feast at Peng Leng Jeng
    Best way to drink a Guinness at Captain's Bar
    Best way to drink a Guinness at Captain's Bar
    The best dumplings & view at Man Wah
    The best dumplings & view at Man Wah
    Hong Kong Asia luxury travel twobarseats.com blog
    Hong Kong Asia luxury travel twobarseats.com blog
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  • Taipei, Taiwan

    Taipei was our biggest surprise of the year – we loved it! Full of unexpected surprises, great food, and an up-and-coming bar scene, Taipei has a lot to offer. Our favorite spots included a local seafood market and a hyper-modern bar. Our one mistake? We didn’t stay longer. We will return and update this so stay tuned.

    Traveling Asia? See our full Singapore Guide here.

    Don’t know what to pack? Here’s Jess’s Packing List.

    Top Restaurants

    Tresors de La Mer

    Overall: 100% Must Go

    Service: 7.5/10  Atmosphere: 7/10   Food: 9/10    Beverage Program: 7/10

    * * This is a long one * *

    Tucked inside Addiction Acquatic seafood market is a restaurant with a small sign in the central courtyard- Tresors de la Mer. It offers the best crab we have ever had in our life (it was snow crab season), plus several options for the freshest seafood you can get. This is the #1 thing to do in Taipei for food lovers.

    Here’s how you do it: First, have your concierge call and make a reservation for you! Once you arrive at the market, find the central outdoor courtyard. This restaurant is on the right, look for the crabs/seafood tanks. Someone will be there to check you in, and show you to those tanks. There, you pick what you want to eat that day! Live crab, lobster, clams, you name it. Plus, ask for veggies and they’ll hold up a bin of the freshest for you to choose from. Then you tell them how you want everything cooked – with garlic? steamed? seared? (they can also give recommendations, but English is limited). Afterwards, they lead you upstairs to an air-conditioned room where you can order sake, drinks, or some sushi hand rolls (the uni was obviously some of the freshest we’ve had). However, save a little room for the sushi place next to the indoor market next door (there is also a small wine bar)- which you might want to explore afterwards to see where they source their fish!

    Addiction Acquatic gets a unique reputation as somewhat of a touristy seafood market. However, the only real reason people seem to call it “touristy” is because the prices could be considered higher than at most local fish markets. (That being said, these are still Taiwan prices- anything would be considered an outrageous deal for us at home in California.) The upside to the “touristy” element is that the seafood market was squeaky clean when we went. This isn’t “luxury fine dining”, but it is certainly an experience.

    Yamasan

    Overall: Highly Recommend

    Service: 8/10  Atmosphere: 7.5/10   Food: 7.5/10    Beverage Program: NA (we had sake)

    Yamasan is an innovative and trendy restaurant without the pretense – which is exactly what we were searching for when we booked this restaurant last minute. Also, we are not typically last minute restaurant bookers, but after seeing the younger up-and-coming bar scene, we wanted to give a younger restaurant a go, and they had kitchen bar seats, which is an obvious plus for us. Their menu seems like it changes, but if these are still on the menu… Must order: The chili dumplings (spicy), the octopus and mushrooms. There was a mashed potato with the octopus that was Michelin-Joel Robuchon level. You may love one thing and like another a little less (skip the eggplant parm), but that comes with the “experimental” vibe. The chef was very proud and curious about our opinions. This was some of the better service we had in Taipei.

    Top Bars

    Lab

    Overall: Highly Recommend

    Service: 9/10   Atmosphere: 7/10   Bar Program: 8.5/10

    Our #1 bar in Taipei without a doubt. This is a little surprising, because they have no physical cocktail menu – which usually deters us from even trying out a bar in the first place. Fun fact: we even didn’t notice until after we left. And the cocktails were great (except, do not tell them you are ‘open to durian’ in your cocktail unless you really want durian in your drink). The actual location is a small, monochromatic room that is perfectly clean and well air-conditioned. The bar seats were well spaced out. This was, by far, the best service of any bar in Taipei (which has a unique… style *see note below*). They don’t take any reservations (so go at opening or a slow time).

    *Not to be confused with ‘under Lab’, which is suprisingly not related and we did not visit.

    Domaine Wine Cellars

    Overall: Highly Recommend

    Service: 8/10    Atmosphere: 8/10    Bar Program: 7/10

    We were so very lucky that we went to the wine bar at Addiction Acquatic, because the sommelier there told us about Domaine Wine Cellars, which we visited every afternoon we were in Taipei. This is a great wine shop that feels more like a private members lounge, and is great for spending an afternoon relaxing at. They have quite a big selection of wines (especially French wines, we stuck with different Saint Aubins), and you can order a bottle to drink there. Plus a cheese plate. Plus enjoy the AC and plush couches. No one will rush you, everyone will help you, and the afternoons are perfectly slow. Tip: Afternoons in Asia in general, are… pretty dead. You’ll be hard pressed to find anywhere to chill out and have a glass of wine before 5PM, including some hotels (here’s looking at you, Seoul). This is partially why Domaine Wine Cellars was such a treat.

    More Restaurants & Bars...

    Overall: Worth A Visit (if nearby)

    Service: 6/10  Atmosphere: 6/10   Beverage Program: 8/10

    This bar at the Shangri La is on a high floor with a great view. Warning: It had pretty bad air conditioning/ventilation (we went during sunset time on a hot day so maybe it was partially the sun was hitting the windows?). And there are not actual bar seats. Sad. Maybe it was because we were hot, in a corner, and the bartender went on break right when they opened, but we weren’t expecting… such amazing cocktails! Really, the drinks were great. Excellent. Worth a visit for their cocktail program alone.

    Overall: It’s only okay

    Service: 7/10  Atmosphere: 6.5/10   Food: 7/10    Beverage Program: 4/10

    As far as handroll bars go, Ossu is okay. They have an open kitchen u-shaped counter seating concept, which we love. The stool seats were a bit small though. We asked for a dry sake and they sold us a sweet one (out of their only three choices). But our complaints are about small things (like the stools). The handrolls weren’t bad, and the casual vibe might be nice if you were staying in Taipei for an extended trip. It’s a casual, young, hip place overall.

    Overall: Recommend

    Service: 7/10  Atmosphere: 7.5/10   Food: 7.5/10    Beverage Program: 6.5/10

    Probably one of the more well known restaurants in Taipei, Saffron 46 is a higher-end Indian restaurant that sits on the 46th floor of the Breeze building. The food was good but not mind blowing, mostly standard Indian tastes. If you like Indian food, it’s an easy choice. Plus, it has excellent views.

    Overall: Worth A Visit

    Service: 7.5/10  Atmosphere: 8/10   Food: 7.5/10    Beverage Program: 6.5/10

    After a mishap at ibuki (*see notable below), we went to the Shangri-La’s other spot… Shang Palace (which we love in Paris) for some comfort Chinese food. The best part was, they offered their full menu at the separate Shang Palace Bar, which was great. It was dark and cozy, and we ordered noodles and vegetables to the table. Worth the visit for sure, especially for a quick bite/drink.

    Overall: Fun stop

    Service: 7/10  Atmosphere: 7/10   Beverage Program: 7/10

    This is a fun full bar with solid draft Guinness and limited bar seating. The bartenders and customers were friendly when we went. It’s an Irish bar!

    Overall: Worth a Stop

    Service: 8/10  Atmosphere: 7.5/10   Beverage Program: NA

    We stopped for a quick drink on our last night (hence the NA rating), but we wish we knew how great this place was sooner! Located at the top of the W Hotel, YEN Bar has really good views, and is much better than the other bars in the hotel. The bartenders were very nice. 

    Hotels

    We are glad we stayed at the W Taipei. It was chill, in a central location that both felt like a safe business district, while being conveniently located to bars and restaurants. The Marvelous Suite was spacious and comfortable. The pool was very cold but refreshing during our visit (during very hot typhoon season). The gym was pretty good and the breakfast (which we do normally skip) was solid.

    Skip the Shangri La, which we went to for dinner one night and found very outdated. The Mandarin Oriental was our second choice, so it would be worth looking into that. The Kimpton Da’an is in a central/trendy location for bars and restaurants, but it should be noted that it doesn’t have a pool (which is nice to have in Taipei)!

    Tourism & Travel Notes

    Overall: 100% Must Go

    This seafood market is clean, friendly to tourists, offers both indoor and outdoor experiences, plus it has some of the best seafood we have ever eaten (snow crab, anyone?) Additionally, it has a sushi bar and a wine bar. Plus, several restaurants just outside the central indoor market (namely, Tresors de la Mer). It’s worth the 30 minute drive from wherever you are probably staying (take this from people who usually won’t drive more than 15 min anywhere).

    * *See the review of Tresors de la Mer in the ‘Top Restaurants’ section.* *

    We loved Taipei’s fresh bar scene, but expectations on service should be tamed a little. Possibly because Taipei is not one of the huge tourism destinations for bar goers (like Hong Kong, Singapore, Tokyo…), they have a very unique style when it comes to ordering that we have only seen in Taipei. Plus, they don’t have a huge tipping culture which likely leads us to… the line problem.

    If you are sitting at the bar and ordering a drink from the bartender, they will take your drink order and put it in line. Now, outside of Taipei- when a bartender takes your order when you are sitting at the bar- it typically means someone (probably them) will make your drink relatively quickly. That does not seem to happen in Taipei. There is a… line rule? And this rule applies to all drinks. This means that if a server for a table behind you puts in their order in their ‘system’ a second ahead of yours, and orders, say, 10000 ramos gin fizzes, the bartender that took your request for 1 beer will proceed to make those 10000 gin fizzes… then pour your beer. There are some exceptions to this (one bar made everyone’s first drink a priority, then went to the line rule… + the Irish bar managed to function as an Irish bar should). But the line rule creates quite awkward service. This seems to be a very minor thing, but when it first happens it can be confusing to deal with, plus it can take forever to get a drink depending on the crowd- so just be aware, and I guess, patient?

    Taiwan’s airport was about an 45 min drive from the city, but other than the distance it was an incredibly easy airport to get through. As US Passport holders, we did not need a visa to enter. For departure, security: Quick and efficient. Cathay Pacific Lounge: Great dumplings (xiao long bao). If you have a long flight and are looking for snacks, buy some before you get to the airport – the airport has mostly hot food as options (aka no shops selling chips or shelf-stable items). 

    Notable Places Visited & Not Reviewed

    ABV Caribbean: Nice spot for people searching for unique beers. Open in the afternoon. Bar Pine: Not bad, better than nearby Public House. Bar Way Home: Easy spot for pre-dinner drinks. Check it out if you’re nearby. ibuki: Avoid at all costs. Le Palais: This 3* Michelin Chinese spot sounds ideal, but don’t waste your time. Worst wine list of any 3* we have ever seen, plus very dark and some of the food was actually bad (scallion pancake, prawn with glass noodles). On a positive, service was very good. Linjiang Night Market: We went around 8PM and most things were closed, plus it smelled like something had died? (which in perspective even made durian smell good). Mushin Noshin: Skip if you’re going for cocktails. Go if you like sweetened tea and instagram photo ops. Posino: Gimmicky. Skip. Public House: AVOID. Apparently the ‘best bar in Taipei’, but it is one of our least favorite bars of all time. The service was not offensive at all, just wildly poor (ex. the couple next to us asked for their check multiple times, and eventually just left).

    favorite moments

    Great tea cocktail at Marco Polo Lounge
    Great tea cocktail at Marco Polo Lounge
    W Taipei pool
    W Taipei pool
    Lab's clean bar
    Lab's clean bar
    Tanks at Tesors de la Mer
    Tanks at Tesors de la Mer
    The best snow crab of all time
    The best snow crab of all time
    The best snow crab of all time, cooked
    The best snow crab of all time, cooked
    Wine at Domaine
    Wine at Domaine
    Friends and pup at Irish Speakeasy
    Friends and pup at Irish Speakeasy
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  • Prague & Vienna

    Two staples of Europe, Prague and Vienna are full of history, culture, and of course good food. A roughly 4 hour train will take you from one city to the next, with quite different atmospheres. Vienna is clean and sophisticated, while Prague felt like the younger, grungier side (with some incredible Asian food). Our take? Best vars in Vienna, best food in Prague.

    Traveling nearby? View our the London, England guide. 

    Don’t know what to pack? Here’s Jess’s Packing List.

    Top Restaurants

    Steirereck

    Overall: 100% Recommend

    Service: 8/10    Atmosphere: 9.5/10    Food: 8/10 (cheese is 10/10)    Beverage Program: 9/10

    In 2025, Steirereck jumped from a 2 to a 3 Michelin star, and they deserve it. This modern, ‘French with Austrian influences’ focuses on local ingredients and quality. There is not a bad seat in the house. And they do book fast, so make a reservation online as soon as you can. We suggest lunch. The restaurant is located in a stunning park, and on a nice day, they open the full length glass doors to let in the natural breeze. The wine pairing is good, but a bit on the small side for such a long meal. Whatever you do, save room for the cheese cart and listen to the cheesemonger. This is (potentially and probably) the best cheese cart in the world. Certainly the best we’ve ever experienced.

    Kampa Park

    Overall: 100% Recommend

    Service: 9/10    Atmosphere: 7.5/10    Food: 9.5/10    Wine: 8.5/10

    This river-side restaurant borders the Charles Bridge, on the opposite side of the river from many popular hotels (such as the Four Seasons). They have both indoor seating and outdoor seating, directly on the river, and this is a great waterfront lunch in general- for Prague it is awesome. The food went above our expectations. Do not leave without trying the truffle pasta.

    QQ Asian Kitchen

    Overall: Certainly Recommend

    Service: 8/10   Atmosphere: 7/10    Food: 8/10    Beverage: 6.5/10

    QQ is on pretty much every ‘must go’ list for Prague, and with a good reason. This Balinese-Chinese restaurant has intense flavors, a friendly chef, and a casual vibe that would please most visitors. The service was very good for Prague- which is not necessarily known for its service. And some of the dishes went beyond an 8 rating and were closer to a 10 (beef rendang!). The dishes are on the smaller side. Here’s what we recommend:

    Starters- Beef tartare and chicken sate (the 5 spice bbq pork ribs were also good… however, skip the tuna tataki)

    Entree- Beef rendang (100% a must), side of sauteed veggies, side of marinated cucumbers (also outstanding)

    Taro 

    Overall: Recommend

    Service: 7.5/10   Atmosphere: 8/10    Food: 8/10    Beverage: 5/10

    Taro was a newer restaurant when we visited, but it is the exact type of restaurant that we like. Modern, clean, open kitchen with counter seating only. They give very modern-Michelin vibes, with well thought out and tasty Vietnamese dishes based on the chef’s family and childhood. The food scoring of 8/10 is really just an average, there were quite a few that were solid 10’s. The weak point is the wine list, which is mostly natural wines, but it is really hard to find a good wine list in Prague due to the importing structure (and the sommelier was incredibly nice and tried very hard, so if any restaurant can improve their list in the future, it could very well be Taro).

    Hanil

    Overall: Highly Consider

    Service: 5/10   Atmosphere: 5/10    Food: 10/10    Beverage: 5/10

    Okay, normally restaurants with ratings like this do not make our “top restaurants” category… however, take a double glance at the food rating and you will see why. We are warning you with the rating… this is a very casual place, and the service is comical at times. Also, importantly- Hanil offers both Japanese and Korean food, but we only tried the Korean food, so this rating specifically applies to that. But man. If/when we go back to Prague, this will be our first stop. Go for a very casual lunch, and literally just copy our order: Bibimbap, kimchi, japchae. (Plus Kirin beer, and if you’re having a ‘fun lunch’, add soju and make your own ‘soju spritz’ with a glass of ice, soju, and sprite.) If we could pick a restaurant to have near our house, this might just be it.

    Top Bars

    Dino’s Apothecary

    Overall: Highly Recommend

    Service: 9/10   Atmosphere: 8/10   Bar Program: 9/10

    This dimly lit, swanky bar ended up being our favorite bar in Vienna, largely due to (of course) finding a favorite bartender (ask for Eddie). Aside from that, this place really is great. There is something in the beverage program for any taste, and their selection of gins was giant. The atmosphere is comfortable, there are plenty of bar seats, and you can make a reservation online for weekend nights when it gets busier. (As for the food, skip the hot dog). 

    More Restaurants & Bars...

    Overall: Sure

    Service: 7.5/10   Atmosphere: 7/10    Food: 7/10    Beverage: 7/10

    A good spot for a cocktail, with hits and misses overall. However, we were there every night (it was at our hotel), plus they did let us eat take-out shawarma at the bar… so we like them.

    Overall: Worth a Stop

    Service: 7/10   Atmosphere: 7/10    Food: 7/10    Beverage: 7.5/10

    This is a chill hipster bar that is designed to look light and airy, and it is a pretty comfortable stop. They do put some sort of fragrance in the air, but besides that, the atmosphere was easy. The jalapeño grilled cheese snack was excellent.

    Overall: Worth a Stop

    Service: 7/10   Atmosphere: 6/10    Food: 7/10    Beverage: 7/10

    This tiny hotel bar will let you eat at one of their 5ish bar seats if you ask nicely, otherwise they have small, comfortable tables. Glasswing Bar is the ‘little sister’ of the namesake restaurant next door (we haven’t tried), but it may explain why we loved snacking here so much. And, truly, there is a good reason to go here- they have the best goulash we have ever had (wild sentence we never expected to say, but we did go back for it twice). They also have a nice local dry riesling by the glass that was a favorite during our stay in Vienna. Beware of a random karaoke singer.

    Overall: Recommend

    Service: 7.5/10   Atmosphere: 7.5/10       Beverage: 7.5/10

    This probably would have gone in our favorite bar list, but we are stubborn, and the second time we went we got kicked out because Gio was wearing shorts on a boiling hot day (so don’t wear shorts!) It should be mentioned that this was after we went the first time, and made friends with the bartenders, who were sad to see us leave, but… alas, dress codes are weird. Anyways, this bar is still great. Bartenders are fun. We still like it. Make sure to book a reservation. 

    Overall: Eh…

    Service: 6/10   Atmosphere: 6/10    Food: 6/10    Beverage: 6.5/10

    Kornut claims to be the best, freshest seafood restaurant in Vienna. To us, it came off like they were trying to be Milo’s but didn’t have the quality to match. It’s also just not that nice. However, there is no Milo’s in Vienna, so for Vienna seafood restaurants, it might be pretty good. It was just okay for us. It would probably be better for lunch than dinner (our first mistake). They do try to sell you aggressively on ordering a whole fish- that was our second mistake (again, good at other places, not so good here). If you do go, we recommend sticking to entrees instead, and the octopus starter was specifically good.

    Overall: Skip

    Service: 6/10   Atmosphere: 5/10    Food: 5/10    Beverage: 3/10

    Everyone tells you to go to Mochi in Vienna. Everyone. And it is by far the hardest online reservation to secure (even harder to get into than the 3 Michelin starred spots). But this sushi/asian place is super busy, wildly uncomfortable, and the wooden, 90-degree-angled seats are packed together so tightly we saw multiple dishes shatter as people tried to stand up. However, there was one amazing item on the menu: Tan Tan Salad. It is bolognese sauce on a salad. It sounds gross, but it was surprisingly delicious. The actual sushi, however, was too sweet and pretty hard to eat (and that’s compared to a bolognese salad). So, lesson: if you can’t get a reservation, you’re not missing out.

    Overall: Certainly Recommend

    Service: 7/10   Atmosphere: 6.5/10    Food: 7.5/10    Beverage: It’s beer!

    This tourist area Czech brewery has good food, making it a nice spot for sampling local dishes or trying a beer flight outside if the weather is nice (but very close to tourist walking path). There is also ample space inside. We had the sausage plus the beer tasting, and was pleasantly surprised with the food quality. If we stayed longer we would have tried the duck prosciutto (tell us how it is!)

    Overall: For Thursday Trivia Night

    Not rating

    This Aussie joint gets packed on Thursday nights for trivia. It is a great trivia night, and they have food + recommend a big bowl of popcorn. You need to email them [email protected] at least a week in advance to book a table (teams can be pretty much any size, but every table will be filled). 

    Overall: Recommend

    Not rating

    This is our favorite sausage stand in Vienna. Enjoy!

    Hotels

    We stayed at Four Seasons Prague, and really enjoyed ourselves. If/when we return, this will likely still be our first choice. The rooms are spacious, the concierges were helpful, and there is a bar that stays open late night. The gym is on the smaller side, but still has most of what you would want. The pool requires booking ahead of time. Location wise, it worked very well for us, with lots of walkable options around.

    Hotel Imperial Vienna has many positive attributes, and a few things that we would change. The best part is the location, which is in a nice part of the city for walking around. And the concierges are great. They double upgraded us to the Imperial Suite, which is giant with high ceilings, has a comfortable bed, and is on the second floor, so we didn’t have to take the (very old) elevators. There is also a lot of history in this hotel. The downsides: We didn’t love the bar, we could not find the gym, and it at times it did feel a little dated. Because of the location, though, there is a good chance we would stay there again.

    The rooms at Anantara were modern and nice, and the lobby bar was a comfortable place to grab a drink. The gym was also good. This is in a quieter part of town, but it is walkable to Dino’s Apothecary- one of our favorite bars in Vienna. Hotel wise, we had a bit of a hard time with check-in (they didn’t have our room ready, so upgraded us to a smaller room… which we then asked to change to our original room, which turned out to be overbooked. We ended up with a double upgrade but it did take a couple hours). But, worst of all, the laundry service left all of our clothes smelling so disgusting that we had to relaunder them at the next hotel, and even throw some items away (sad!) Anyways, it’s a fine hotel, if a little boring, but the rooms are nice- just avoid the laundry service.

    Tourism & Travel Notes

    20 minutes from downtown Vienna is a hilly region with wineries scattered throughout. Many of the wineries are only open on weekends, and this is a great activity for families (and dogs!) Basically all outdoors, there are very casual little wine shops where you order at the front, take your wine to a picnic bench or lounger, and relax. Many are cash only.

    If you go, definitely Uber to the top of the hill, and walk down. We don’t recommend any of the wineries specifically, but here was our general route:

    Uber to Mayer am Nussberg (20 min), Walk downhill to Weingut Wailand (7min) then Monte Nucum (15min). End with a 15 minute trek all the way downhill, and stop at Gasthof Zum Renner – a great beer patio with food and an outdoor seating area.

    Notable Places Visited & Not Reviewed

    Prague – Hemingway Bar: Potentially went a little downhill over the years, but it might be fun later at night. K Brothers Indian: Skip. Yamato: A lot of people mentioned that this is the best sushi in Prague, and while the sashimi was good, it left a bit to be desired. Skip the seaweed salad.  Vienna – Billabong: #1 choice for watching F1, just go maybe 30 mins early, sit at the bar, be nice, and ask for the channel. Chuan: Good. Get all the dumplings, skip everything else. die Frankostrei Judenplaz: Bad attitudes, skip. Ella: Not recommended, but not terrible. Figmuller Backerstrabe: Reservations are essential (every reservation skips the line, so people will wait hours). That being said. It’s fine. Pretty good on the schnitzel front. It’s exactly what you would expect. Flannigans: Good for a pint of Guinness and fine bartenders. Not the best Irish pub in the world, not the worst. Jaritas Indian: Don’t go out of your way (if you do go, skip the apps). But the garlic naan and chicken tikka were good. Potions: Harry Potter themed bar, and you definitely need reservations. It’s fun but not a must-go, even for HP fans. Santos Mexican: Definitely skip. Shakespeare and co: Good English bookstore. The Bank: Absolutely skip.  Tony’s Pizza: Just ok. Unger and Klein: A fine stop for some wine. Pickwick’s: A bookstore and Guinness pub combo. Service is iffy but the concept is great. Yori Korean: Sadly disappointing. Don’t go.   

    favorite moments

    The goulash at Glasswing Vienna
    The goulash at Glasswing Vienna
    Tiny beer shot at Dino's!
    Tiny beer shot at Dino's!
    Best cheese cart in the world at Steirereck!
    Best cheese cart in the world at Steirereck!
    Vienna winery hillside
    Vienna winery hillside
    Amazing kimchi at Hanil in Prague
    Amazing kimchi at Hanil in Prague
    Delicious course at Taro Prague
    Delicious course at Taro Prague
    Gio with Talia at trivia night in Prague
    Gio with Talia at trivia night in Prague
    Pivovar beer flight, Prague!
    Pivovar beer flight, Prague!
    No trip is complete without a Guinness!
    No trip is complete without a Guinness!
    Truffle pasta at Kampa Park Prague
    Truffle pasta at Kampa Park Prague
    Gio at Wurstelstand Zum scharfen Rene- a great spot in Vienna
    Gio at Wurstelstand Zum scharfen Rene- a great spot in Vienna
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  • Seoul, South Korea

    Here are a few important things we wish we knew going into Seoul, South Korea… One: Google maps does not work for directions. You need to download the Korean app Naver, and copy/paste Korean translation (symbols) of a restaurant or hotel into the app. Two: Uber works. Again, copy and paste the Korean address (symbols) from google or a location’s website. And the traffic is not as bad as everyone says it is (it’s comparable to Los Angeles). Three: Translation apps are very useful (Google translate is fine). Four: Almost everything is closed 2:30-5PM, especially bars (even luxury hotel bars). This is a good time for sightseeing or spa appointments. Five: Catchtable is a good reservation website. Lastly: The best time for “nice” dinner reservations is 5:30/6PM, many restaurants do last call for the kitchen at 8:30PM… Also, if we were to only stay in one part of the city it would be Gangnam.

    Traveling to Asia? View the Tokyo & Osaka Guide here. We also love Singapore, here’s the Singapore Guide.

    Don’t know what to pack? Here’s Jess’s Packing List.

    Top Restaurants

    Washoku Yein

    Overall: 100% Recommend

    Atmosphere: 8.5/10   Food: 9/10    Service: 9/10    Beverage Program: 7.5/10

    This is by far our favorite meal in Seoul, and if there is one restaurant to go to, this is it. Washoku Yein is run chef Yein- a very talented young chef who designed the quaint kaiseke restaurant himself. Kaiseke – which is Japanese based (with Korean influences here)- is similar to omakase, but it also includes some cooked dishes. The food is outstanding, the value is unreal, and the quality of everything is truly impressive. We really enjoyed the sake pairing as well, which Chef Yein picked out for us when we told him we prefer dry sakes.

    This is a 12 seat restaurant and it feels intimate and still high-end. For our lunch course, we loved the tuna hand roll, fried rice, and the soups were delicious. Definitely our favorite restaurant in Korea and now one of our favorite restaurants of all time. Seriously recommend.

    It is located on the second floor of the address provided (you can see the sign on the building if you look up) and you simply slide the door to the right.

    Lavender

    Overall: Highly consider

    Atmosphere: 8/10     Food: 8.5/10      Service: 8.5/10 (would be 9.5 if they slowed down a little)     Beverage Program: 7/10

    This is the restaurant to go if you want to experience ultra-high end dining in Seoul, in an area of Gangnam near a lot of top 50 bars. Lavender Seoul focuses on Korean Teppanyaki, which is basically when a chef cooks on a flat top in front of you. They take it to an extreme here, with live lobsters, a giant tin of caviar, and high-end Korean beef. The service is really attentive and the food is delicious. The vibe is classy and spacious, with only a few groups allowed per seating. If there were any complaints, it is probably that it was quite fast paced for us (it still took over 2 hours, and there were so many courses, but even when we asked them to slow down we were just constantly getting new things- people in Korea eat a lot and they eat really fast!) and, also, we didn’t really know the cost of anything until the check came, so you kind of have to be okay with that mindset. However, almost everything we ate in Korea would have been 5x more in the US, if that offers some perspective.

    Overall: Highly Recommend

    Atmosphere: 6/10   Service: 6.5/10    Food: 7/10     Bar Program: 5/10

    Hangaram is traditional Korean, which is a must in Seoul. We went to another traditional Korean spot, and spent the whole time wishing we were back here instead. So go to Hangaram. They will set you up with all the delicious sides called “banchan” like kimchi and japchae. Order 1 entree per person, and all the sides come (you share everything). All tables are 4 tops, because you need extra space to fit everything. We highly recommend ordering the eel entree, and skipping the short rib. All their food touts health benefits, as does their soju and rice wine. Also, there is a beef soup place next door with a line of locals at lunch time, if you want to check that out for another day.

    Pro tip: Pretty much anywhere in Korea, including here (which is where we learned it), you can ask for soju with a side of ice and “cider” (basically sprite, google ‘Korean cider’ and show them a picture of the green can if you go somewhere that doesn’t understand you) for a delicious soju spritz.

    Top Bars

    Charles H

    Overall: Highly Consider

    Atmosphere: 9.5/10  Service: 8.5/10 Bar Program: 8.5/10

    First things first, this cocktail bar in the Four Seasons is impossible to find on your own, so you do need to ask one of the many gracious people at the front of the hotel to walk you there (literally walk you there). Charles H is #7 of Asia’s 50 best bar list and it deserves its spot. It has a very swanky atmosphere, and the cocktails are very good. Reservations are highly recommended, and they can be made via texting with the Four Seasons (info on website). We enjoyed going at opening, this place can get busy later at night.

    Zest

    Overall: Recommend

    Atmosphere: 8/10    Service: 7.5/10    Bar Program: 7/10

    Zest is one of those sustainably cool bars, with recycled ingredients and local glassware artisans and the like. It is #2 best bar in Asia. So the crowd is a bit younger and more hispter-y. The cocktails are tiny, so plan on getting several, but the vibe is good. It should be noted that the cheese plate looked delicious. And we really like that they open early on weekends when almost nothing else in Seoul is. Nothing really stood out as exceptional, but we would probably return and do recommend checking it out. Reservations are a must.

    More Restaurants & Bars...

    Overall: Recommend

    Atmosphere: 6.5/10    Service: 9/10     Food: 8.5/10     Beverage Program: 6.5/10

    We really liked this Indian restaurant in Hannam and would go back on our next visit if we were in that area. Service was outstanding. The food is semi-modern Indian (or “Indian with a twist”), and they have a G&T list that is very good. Must order the smoked yogurt and put it on everything. The restaurant was cold in the winter, so it might be hot in the summer, just a heads up.

    Overall: Honorable Mention

    Not rated

    This is more of an honorable mention because when we were jetlagged and staying at the hotel connected to this remarkable food court, we went here pretty much every morning for breakfast. While you shouldn’t necessarily go out of your way, if you are in the area this food court is awesome. And we are not usually food court people. They have everything from baked goods to sushi to noodles to dumplings and korean staples like gimbap. We highly recommend the variety box of dumplings from the older ladies kitty-corner to the sushi spot.

    Overall: Recommend

    Atmosphere: 7.5/10    Service: 8/10     Food: 8/10     Beverage Program: 6.5/10

    If you want Italian in Seoul, this is the place to go (reservations necessary). The pasta is perfectly al dente- we highly recommend both the bolognese pasta as well as the pasta with zucchini and clams. Plus, the bikini sandwich appetizer is a must (and the kitchen does sell out). The somm is friendly and they have many Napa wines you can’t find elsewhere in Seoul.

    Overall: Recommend

    Atmosphere: 7/10    Service: 10/10     Food: NA     Beverage Program: 5.5/10

    Attached to Pierre’s restaurant on the top floor of Lotte Executive Tower is Pierre’s Bar, with an amazing bartender named Eric (who was our favorite in South Korea). This isn’t really a mixology bar, but it does have everything you need for simple drinks, and the service is really phenomenal. In Seoul, we learned that there weren’t many bartenders or young people open to just hang out and chat. Some of that was the language barrier, but most of it seemed to be cultural. Eric was the exception. So, if you want to get to know a local over a nightcaps, go here. Plus, it has a great view overlooking the city.

    Overall: Recommend

    Atmosphere: 5.5/10    Service: 7/10     Food: 8/10     Beverage Program: 5/10

    Reservations are required at this delicious Korean BBQ spot off the main road in Myeong-dong (our hotel concierge made our reservation). We had the best table, in a blocked-off room, on the top floor, by the window… and if you can request or get that, your meal will certainly be better (a lot of the other tables seemed cramped or had no windows, hence the atmosphere rating). This turned out to be one of our best meals. We ordered every cut of beef they offered at lunch (high-end Korean beef), plus the beef tartar (famous dish in Seoul, and great here, similar to bibimbap as well). We had to wait for our table, so we ordered with the host… and our massive over-ordering might have been why we got the best spot. Anyways, the beef comes with different salts and some banchan (kimchi, etc). It’s all awesome. They cook the meat for you. You can order soju (see Hangaram restaurant for a soju ordering tip). We would go again tomorrow.

    Overall: Consider

    Atmosphere: 6/10    Service: 5.5/10     Food: 8/10     Beverage Program: 4/10

    Another high-end Chinese restaurant, Toh Lim sits on a high floor overlooking the city, which we enjoyed at lunchtime. The food was surprisingly great, considering the menu had a lot of things we don’t love (abalone, jellyfish, etc). It was hard to get wine poured, it was pretty hot, and something was just “off” about the vibe (maybe lack of music? who knows). It took some work to pick a wine from the iffy list. However… the dim sum was great and the garlic fried shrimp was a 9.9/10, so we’re very happy we went.

    Overall: Recommend

    Atmosphere: 8/10   Service: 8/10    Food: 8/10     Beverage Program: 7/10

    If you want high-end Chinese in Myeong-Dong, Yu Yuan at the Four Seasons is our recommendation (and we tried a couple different places). It’s pretty much your standard high-end chinese menu, and they are known for their peking duck. We had a really good time here and enjoyed the high ceilings and spacious tables (which is almost standard in Seoul). Pair this with Charles H bar for a good night.

    Hotels

    The Lotte Executive Tower is one wing of the Lotte hotel. It is centrally located, the gym is great, and the bar at Pierre’s on the rooftop is nice (avoid all the other bars). We enjoyed the spacious room and bathrooms, but you need to request extra towels and extra water every day (you get 1 or 2 of each without asking for more). Avoid the room service. Looking back, we are glad we stayed here but if we were to stay in Myeong-dong area again, we would probably choose the Four Seasons instead.

    We are not even going to link this place because it should be avoided. It’s massively crowded, the service is not good (we got a text that our room was ready at 2, but arrived and were told it wouldn’t be ready until 6 and that other people ‘had been waiting even longer’). Plus, you have to taxi everywhere, and the elevators stop at every floor.

    The Andaz Gangnam is definitely not our favorite hotel in the world, but we would might stay there again. We still ubered most places because we were there in winter, but the location is pretty good (you want to be near central Cheongdam-dong). The concierge team was our favorite of the trip, and the room was comfortable (except a few lighting issues). Next trip, we would likely stay in Gangnam the whole time and this would be an option we would consider returning to.

    The Four Seasons in Myeong-dong would be worth looking into, as well as any hotels near Cheondam-dong in Gangnam.

    Tourism & Travel Notes

    Jess went to Luana Hair Salon (booked through messaging @cozy__m_j on Instagram) for the viral 12 step Korean scalp treatment including steam baths, water streams, red light therapy, oils, and the like. Plus a haircut. Highly recommended and a must if you have a free afternoon in Gangnam (takes about 2 hours). Just make sure to confirm the address at booking because there are 2 Luana salons.

    We posted this after our trip:

    Here’s the (extra) takeaways/what to know before you go (that I personally would have found helpful):

    • Traffic: We booked our trip pretty intimidated with the traffic situation, but we found it similar to cities like LA. It’s not ideal and the lights are long, but if you avoid busy times (similar to LA rush hour) it’s not bad.

    • “Prejudice” (for lack of better wording): We did not experience any of the anti-foreigner prejudice, as far as we noticed. Everyone was polite and welcoming.

    • Language Barrier: Out of 20+ restaurants/bars, only 1 restaurant did not speak any English (or understand translation apps). Google translate is helpful for deciphering menus.

    • Cost: We’re from the US. We thought it would be expensive, we found it very affordable even compared to Tokyo/osaka. Ex. Our best meal of the trip was a lunch for 50k won per person, excluding alcohol (it was Japanese kaiseke with Korean influences, which is not totally Korean, but it was awesome. Called Washoku Yein in Gangnam)

    • Safety with political protests: We were there for December when the (then?) president was voted to be impeached (we landed two days after the military law was implemented/revoked) and we had zero issues with this. Any protesters we saw were quite peaceful compared to the US, at least.

    • Timing (OUR BIGGEST CONFUSION): (This is for the fellow bar people 😊)—— Before noon: Gyms, pools, breakfast areas are busy 12-2PM: lunch time 2:30PM-5PM: Literally nothing is open (few exceptions on Saturdays). Almost no bars. Nothing. No fun. This is an excellent time for spa appointments or tourism activities. 5PM: Luxury hotel bartenders check in for work 5:30-6:30PM: The busiest time for “nice” dinner reservations 7PM: Bars open 8:30PM: Many high-end restaurants do last call for the kitchen After 9PM: Bars start to pick up, late night restaurants get busy 3AM-5AM: Bars close

    ^ we did visit in December, so this may be seasonal. We noticed it in Myeongdong, Hannam, and Gangnam, where we spent our time.

    Notable Places Visited & Not Reviewed

    Byeokje Galbi the Cheongdam KBBQ: Our least favorite meal of the trip. Skip. brulee: Really cool looking hipster place, but very undercooked pizza toppings (including sausage), plus a couple other misses that tell us you should skip it. Geranium: We went when they had a popup from a bar in Malaysia (Good Friends Club) and we greatly preferred the drinks from the pop up bar. The Geranium drinks are better for people that love perfume/cologne. Le Chamber: This is a bar with a waitlist you can sign up for 15 min – an hour-ish before on Catchtable. However, you can’t request bar seats vs table seats and it is always packed. The timing didn’t work out for us, but it looked really cool. Pine & Co: One of the top 50 bars in Asia, but there is not much actual ‘bar seating’ rather than just high-tops pretending to be bar seating? Loud techno. Maybe better for big groups. TANI: Such weird vibes, just avoid it. Sushi Sunsoo (also called Sushi Soonsoo): This place was so annoying! There was a persistent, shrill, torturous beeping that was too high pitched for the older staff to hear (only one heard it and said she already called the electrician for the next day) but it was unbearable and we left the omakase early.

    favorite moments

    Charles H
    Charles H
    Best dumplings at Lotte
    Best dumplings at Lotte
    Jess doing viral scalp treatment at Luana
    Jess doing viral scalp treatment at Luana
    Mongone's great bolognese
    Mongone's great bolognese
    Soonwoo Black Korean BBQ meats!
    Soonwoo Black Korean BBQ meats!
    Hangaram's amazing traditional lunch spread
    Hangaram's amazing traditional lunch spread
    Extra garlic at Lavender
    Extra garlic at Lavender
    Gio very content at Washoko Yein (our #1 rec!)
    Gio very content at Washoko Yein (our #1 rec!)
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  • Barcelona, Spain

    Barcelona is one of our favorite cities in Europe and with good reason- it has something for everyone. From the best tapas restaurants to beach clubs and Irish pubs, Barcelona is always a good time. Some of our top Barcelona recommendations include a Korean BBQ spot (Seoul Nadri) and a Michelin Guide spot focused on fresh produce and seafood (PUR). We recommend staying in Eixample over Las Ramblas, and whiskey fans need to check out La Whiskeria.

    Traveling around? See our guide for other Mediterranean Port Cities.

    Don’t know what to pack? Here’s Jess’s Packing List.

    Top Restaurants

    PUR

    Overall: Recommend

    Service: 7.5/10    Atmosphere: 8.5/10    Food: 8/10    Wine List: 7.5/10

    This is a clean, sophisticated, and modern restaurant- boasting an open kitchen and a section of still-moving fish on ice. This Michelin Guide restaurant specializes in fresh seafood and produce, along with some excellent looking grilled meats. They typically also offer several vegetables, so we were able to try guisante lágrima (teardrop peas, the most precious peas in the world). We would suggest this restaurant for any age range, and they have bar seating overlooking the kitchen, which makes for a great date night. Online, it mentions that they have a separate bar, but it has been closed for years (as of 2024).

    Paco Meralgo

    Overall: Recommend

    Service: 7/10      Atmosphere: 7/10 (semi-private room)      Food: 7.5/10      Beverage Program: 6/10

    If you want a tapas dinner in Barcelona, Paco Meralgo is our top recommendation. They offer the traditional tapas, and an incredibly large menu- do make sure not to order too much fried food (it’s not super clear on the menu, so ask). We sat upstairs in the “attic” because we were with a larger party (which is part of why our ratings are probably lower than they could be). Reservations are a must, because this place gets busy.

    China Crown

    Overall: Recommend

    Service: 7/10     Atmosphere: 7.5/10      Food: 8.5/10      Beverage: 6/10

    Our entire family loved this Chinese spot nestled in the trendy Eixample neighborhood. Truthfully, we were surprised by this- we expected a quick and mediocre lunch to sate our Chinese food cravings- and we were greeted with amazing food and we almost didn’t leave. The peking duck was solid, but not our favorite dish0 we highly recommend the spring rolls, soups, entree proteins, and veggies. We even ordered seconds of the noodles. 

    Seoul Nadri

    Overall: Highly Recommend

    Service: 8/10     Atmosphere: 5/10 (but 10/10 for Korean BBQ)      Food: 9/10      Beverage: 4/10

    This is our favorite Korean BBQ spot in Europe. It leans younger, there are no backs on the chairs, and the beverage situation is tricky (they do have “frozen” beer and soju, so there’s something fun to try). We loved it and visited twice (almost 3 times) in 4 days. If you’ve never been to Korean BBQ, you typically sit in front of a grill and cook your own meats (they also can cook it in the back if you want to sit at a grill-less high top). Plus, you get “banchan” (veggie sides) to eat along with your meat (along with spicy dips, kimchi, lettuce wraps, etc). Must orders at Seoul Nadri: Galbi short rib, Beef Bulgogi, and the bibimbap (we like to order this to start). Reservations are encouraged (unless you go early). They are closed Monday/Tuesday.

    Top Bars

    Solange

    Overall: Highly Recommend

    Service: 8/10   Atmosphere: 9/10   Bar Program: 8.5/10

    Solange bar feels like stepping into a James Bond movie- and they have the elegant cocktails to match. We have returned to this bar every time we have visited Barcelona, and it always has great service and ambiance (while never being too busy, in our experience). In a city filled with top 50 bars that can get busy and a little overrated, this (non-top-50-bar) is our favorite high-end cocktail spot.

    La Whiskeria

    Overall: Recommend

    Service: 9.5/10    Atmosphere: 8/10    Bar Program: 2/10 or 9/10

    This is a place for whiskey lovers and (pretty much) whiskey lovers alone. So, what were us 2 gin lovers doing there? It was an accident, sort of. We walked in at opening because we happened to walk by and it looked nice. We ended up staying because the service was great and despite not liking whiskey, we really enjoyed ourselves (they do have like, 3 gins). It is comfortable, spacious, and feels high-end. If you love whiskey, this is your place. Ask for Liv at the bar.

    More Restaurants & Bars...

    Overall: Consider

    Service: 8/10     Atmosphere: 7.5/10       Food: 7/10        Beverage Program: 7/10

    This is a 1 Michelin star Asian-tapas fusion restaurant, and we have been 3 times (which, in general, should say good things about this place). The rating above is an average of the last 2, most recent visits. Our last visit wasn’t great, but part of that is because we went with a large group with many questions, and the food wasn’t our favorite (but the menu has changed by about 95% every visit). Typically, there is some sashimi, asian ribs, and several dishes that require a few creative steps. Dos Palillos has counter seating (and bar seating up front) directly surrounding the kitchen where the chefs meticulously prepare their dishes. We would consider visiting again, but 3 times might have been enough.

    Overall: Consider

    Service: 7/10     Atmosphere: 6/10      Food: 7/10        Beverage Program: 6/10

    Dos Pebrots is the more casual sister restaurant of the 1 Michelin star Dos Palillos. It is pretty standard tapas items, with a wood fire oven (making chef’s counter seats hot) creating beautiful fish and meat dishes of much larger portion size. Be careful not to order too much, as many of the dishes are huge. 

    Overall: Consider

    Service: 8.5/10     Atmosphere: 7/10       Food: 6.5/10      Wine List: 7/10

    This 1 Michelin star tapas restaurant requires reservations well in advance, and works in tasting menu format only. It has a small indoor space, and offers beautifully and intricately prepared dishes. Now, our experience may have been different (and they change their menu a lot), but we found the food to be bland, so we didn’t love it. The service, on the other hand, was excellent.

    Overall: Maybe

    Not rating

    This is a members-only bar/lounge that Barcelona bartenders go to after work for a late night out (hours are 10PM-5AM). There is a pool table, friendly bartenders (it is a bartender bar of course), and it’s a bit grungy. If you need a late night spot near Las Ramblas, but aren’t interested in nightclubs, this is a good option. You can become a member at the door easily, just ask. 

    Overall: SKIP

    Service: 7/10    Atmosphere: 6/10    Bar Program: 1/10

    Ranked #1 bar in the world in 2024, Sips was at the top of our to do list, so we made a reservation. Turns out, the reservation for bar seating is for their ‘cocktail tasting experience’- all fine. And their cocktail tasting experience included “tastes” of drinks that looked thoughtful… but were all mostly made with sherry, and almost no other alcohol. There was just an incredible amount of sherry. And, no, it was not a sherry tasting (even if it felt like it). On one side… we can see fans of gastronomic dining, dreaming of being in the movie “The Menu”, kind of liking this experience (but still, maybe not the drinks). It just wasn’t for us. After they told us to “drink the cocktail from the bowl like soup” for the third time, we were eyeing the exit.

    Overall: Consider

    Service: 5/10     Atmosphere: 6/10     Food: 6.5/10        Beverage Program: 6/10

    We don’t often mention value places in these reviews, but if you are looking for sushi in a value place, Shunka is your spot (and this kind of explains the high ratings elsewhere online). It might be worth a stop if you are staying in Barcelona for an extended time. Skip the yaki soba. Order a bottle of sake.

    Hotels

    There are good and not-so-good elements of El Palace. The good: It’s located in central Eixample, the main lobby bar is very comfortable, the rooms are very spacious, and they have some of the largest and nicest bathrooms we have seen in Barcelona. The not-so-good: The pool is tiny, freezing, and service there is confusing. The gym fits 3 people max. The elevators are old and tiny. The nice restaurant has strange hours (including being open 1 hour for lunch while we were there?). And the communication inside the hotel is off (it took 48 hours and almost 10 phone calls/concierge visits to get water).

    If you want to stay on the busier (more touristy, but also quite walkable) Las Ramblas, Sonder DO Plaça Real is a solid option. It’s certainly better for younger travelers (there was either no elevator or it was broken during our stay, so we took the stairs up and down). But it is also super walkable to many great bars and restaurants. This hotel has a bit more of a bed and breakfast feel, with less amenities, but it is nice waking up in the morning overlooking the square of Plaça Real.

    The Mandarin Oriental in Eixample was fully booked out during our last visit to Barcelona, but this is likely where we would stay next time.

    Tourism & Travel Notes

    It has been many years and many moons since we ventured down to the beaches of Barcelona. Some of the tips still stand: Make sure you get a table reservation at clubs, or are on a guest list (which you can find a way to get on by looking a club up online). The lines get long. & If you want paella at a restaurant on the beach, many of these spots will offer cooking classes and let you cook them yourselves. But a lot of the beach restaurants can be quite touristy, so just expect that. Enjoy!

    There is a lot of pickpocketing in Barcelona. And do not follow strangers down alleyways if they offer to show you a great shawarma spot!

    Notable Places Visited & Not Reviewed

    Belushi’s: Do. Not. Go. Even if it’s the only place playing the F1 race you want to watch, just find somewhere else. Cecconi’s: Connected to Soho House, this is not a bad spot if you’re craving some standard Italian food. Irish Pub Temple Bar (on Ferran): A fun, late night was had here. We recommend. James Joyce Pub: Quaint and friendly Irish pub in Eixample, can get a little warm on hot days. Tandem Cocktail Bar: Skip it. Two Schmucks: We had an average time, but would like to revisit.

    favorite moments

    China Crown peking duck
    China Crown peking duck
    Late nights at Solange
    Late nights at Solange
    Seoul Nadri
    Seoul Nadri
    Seoul Nadri
    Seoul Nadri
    La Whiskeria
    La Whiskeria
    Teardrop peas!
    Teardrop peas!
    Irish pub puppy
    Irish pub puppy
    3 for 3
    3 for 3
    Two Schmucks
    Two Schmucks
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  • Mediterranean Cruise Stops

    It is hard to beat a summer on the Mediterranean. Whether you are traveling by land or by sea, here are some of the best restaurants  that Mediterranean port cities have to offer. Some of our top recommendations include Da i Gemelli in Portofino, Italy and Il Camino in Mallorca, Spain. Barcelona is excluded from this guide, as it deserves its own complete guide.

    View the full Barcelona Guide here.

    For travel packing recommendations, check out Jess’s Packing List.

    Mallorca

    El Camino

    Overall: Highly Recommend

    Service: 7.5/10    Atmosphere: 8/10    Food: 8/10    Wine List: 6/10

    This delicious tapas restaurant is in the heart of old town Palma. There are tons of fresh daily specials, as well as a standard menu including pan con tomate and the like (do not miss out on the jamon iberico- possibly the best we have ever had!) For lovers of Sabor in London, El Camino in Mallorca is a must-visit. It is modern, trendy, lively, and the food is delicious. El Camino has two main seating options- a large and long bar overlooking the kitchen, plus high-top tables in the back. Reservations are strongly encouraged (and we would almost say required). If you have one meal in Mallorca- make it El Camino, you won’t be disappointed.

    There is a charming square less than a 2 minute walk from El Camino, which has several good bars for a drink on a beautiful day. We tried to go to Gibson Bar, but it was too busy and we ended up at Bar Nicolás next door. We would recommend going to this spot for drinks before a great lunch at El Camino.

    Cannes

    La Guérite

    Overall: Highly Consider

    Service: 6.5/10     Atmosphere: 8.5/10     Food: 7.5/10     Wine List: 7.5/10

    Ignore the bad google reviews, this place is worth a visit. El Guérite mixes a beach club atmosphere (live music eventually turns into a DJ around 3), with a charming and classy space that is suitable for older age ranges (which we recommend going earlier). Reservations are a must (send in a request through Seven Rooms and they will email you back). Don’t wear nice heels- the floor is sand- but do bring a bathing suit if you want to venture down their private beach and take the stairs down to the (icy!) water. The food is also good- the crudité was humongous, and our favorite item on the menu was the signature La Guérite pasta (excellent for cheese lovers).

    Getting there is an adventure- it is located on it’s own island, a 5-10 minute boat ride from Porto Canto, which is right in Cannes (but often on the other side of town from where cruise ships dock). You can arrive in your own small boat, alternatively the restaurant offers transportation in their speed dingies after you make a reservation, and they recommend you arrive at the port 15 minutes before your reservation time.

    Monte Carlo

    It is very important to know that there are an extremely limited number of taxis in Monte Carlo, and the city is on a steep hill. It takes about 45 minutes to walk uphill from the part of port closest to town, up the hill to the “central” area near the casino. 

    Uber/Lyft/etc is not allowed to pick you up in Monte Carlo. However, if you are arriving from an outside city (such as Cannes, for example), Uber is allowed to drop you off.

    Taxis generally need to be called 30 minutes before you need them, but sometimes restaurants can call them in quicker (here is the official government taxi company).

    This casino used to be a nice and elegant place to get a pre-dinner cocktail, but they have since removed the bar seats, added a minimal entrance fee for “tickets”, and dropped the once heavily enforced dress code. It is packed, there are ripped jeans and flip flops, and there is almost no seating. Since times have changed, we will skip this place moving forward.

    Overall: Probably Skip

    Not rating

    Buddha Bar used to be really cool 5+ years ago, and you can feel it. It’s a bit outdated and the food is just okay, but on a nice night it does offer a great outdoor terrace for hookah or a bottle of wine. We may or may not go back, but there are probably better places. If you go, do dress for a night on the town.

    Portofino

    Da i Gemelli

    Overall: Highly Recommend

    Service: 8/10     Atmosphere: 6.5/10     Food: 8/10     Wine List: 7.5/10

    Portofino is not our favorite spot because it can get so packed with crowds of tourists (hence part of the atmosphere rating). However, it is absolutely worth getting off the boat to visit Da i Gemelli, an Italian restaurant that has been run for 8 generations and is now in the hands of the Gemelli twin brothers, Paolo and Matteo. It is right in the center of town, and the outdoor seating can get a bit sunny, but it is worth booking a reservation via email ([email protected]), and securing your spot for an outstanding lunch. The seafood is fresh, and we highly recommend asking for the price of a fish and ordering it baked with olive oil and potatoes. Skip mamma’s tomato pasta (sorry!) and make sure to get some fresh seafood apps (but be careful not to order too large of portions! ask for smaller ones). They also have a full wine list, with some good options.

    Villefranche-sur-Mer

    Olivula

    Overall: Recommend

    Service: 8/10     Atmosphere: 7/10     Food: 8/10     Wine List: 6.5/10

    This is the perfect spot for lunch in Villefranche, and the google ratings do not lie- this place is good. We walked up that morning to secure a reservation for later that afternoon, but we would probably recommend making a reservation ahead of time (though it did not get busy on the Sunday we were there). This nice restaurant is located along a row of spots by the harbor, and it offers some excellent French-Italian cuisine with fresh ingredients. The risottos are the best we have ever had. 

    Eliott’n’Bobbie’s

    Overall: Highly Recommend

    Not rating

    This is a very casual spot in the center of town offering burgers, chicken tenders, and nachos. Do not get the nachos. H0wever, the chicken tenders are outstanding, crispy, delicious, uniquely coated, and simply… great. We highly recommend ordering some chicken tenders as a snack (with some dry rosé wine), or taking a to-go order of tons of these little guys back to your boat. They’re even good room temp. We did both of these things and did not regret either. 

    Antibes

    Mamo Michelangelo

    Overall: Consider

    Service: NA     Atmosphere: 8/10     Food: 7/10     Wine List: 8.5/10

    This is the place to see and be seen, and the celebrity photos lining the wall certainly bolster that reputation. You can probably tell from the name that this is an Italian restaurant, and it has the stone-lined walls of the restaurant give that ambiance. We would recommend dinner for a more “sceney” vibe than lunch, and our service wasn’t great the time we went- but we have heard that it is typically much better (so we though it unfair to rate). They brought out a truffle pizza, which was delicious, but our favorite item on the menu actually turned out to be the side of penne all’arrabbiata. 

    Louroc

    Overall: Consider

    Service: 6/10     Atmosphere: 9.5/10     Food: 7.5/10     Wine List: 8.5/10

    This one-star Michelin restaurant has the attitude of a one-star Michelin restaurant, and the service ranged from a 10 to a 2, so we averaged it out at 6. However, this is probably one of the most luxurious and romantic restaurants in France. The view is outstanding, overlooking the ocean, the lighting is dim but there is no need to turn on a phone flash light, the ceilings are high, and the decorations are ornate. This all makes sense because Eden Roc is one of the nicest hotels in the world. We were with a large party, so we had to do a set menu, which was good overall (with the exception of the tiny cheese plate). You go here for the “experience” (we have heard that they make an outstanding rice dish at lunch though, so do keep an eye out for that).

    favorite moments

    El Camino in Mallorca
    El Camino in Mallorca
    Gio and Jess's sister on boat #1
    Gio and Jess's sister on boat #1
    El Guerite crudite
    El Guerite crudite
    El Guerite fruit plate
    El Guerite fruit plate
    Gio and Jess's dad swimming at El Geurite
    Gio and Jess's dad swimming at El Geurite
    Louroc at Eden Roc view
    Louroc at Eden Roc view
    The ship
    The ship
    Breakfast on ship
    Breakfast on ship
    Quaint streets of Antibes- would go back!
    Quaint streets of Antibes- would go back!
    Langostines at Da i Gemelli in Portofino
    Langostines at Da i Gemelli in Portofino
    Da i Gemelli portofino
    Da i Gemelli portofino
    Jess and her sister on boat #1
    Jess and her sister on boat #1
    Secret Trivia on boat #1 was a success
    Secret Trivia on boat #1 was a success
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  • Smaller Cities of Germany

    Here is our guide to some of the best restaurants and the best bars in three of the smaller cities of Germany, including: Cologne, Dusseldorf, and Frankfurt. Out of these cities in Germany, Frankfurt has our favorite restaurant- Restaurant Lohinger. Also, we think the Frankfurt airport is the best airport in Europe. While Frankfurt may not necessarily be a “smaller” city, we haven’t visited enough times for a complete travel guide (yet).

    Traveling around Europe? Check out our Paris Guide.

    Don’t know what to pack? Here’s Jess’s Packing List.

    Top Restaurants

    Restaurant Lohinger

    Overall: Highly Recommend

    Service: 8.5/10    Atmosphere: 8.5/10    Food: 9/10    Beverage Program: 8/10

    After our first visit, this Austrian restaurant immediately became one of our top restaurants in Europe- and this is certainly our favorite restaurant in Germany. It is comfortable, cool, modern, and an excellent lunch stop. We highly recommend ordering the schnitzel- which is their prized dish- and the potato salad that comes with it is simple, clean and the best we have ever tasted. Additionally, the tomato pasta was phenomenal. There are a few menu items with Asian inspiration- including a starter salad with Matsuhisa dressing (for Nobu fans, you should know that this dressing is legit). 

    Gaffel Am Dom

    Overall: Recommend

    Service: 7/10   Atmosphere: 8/10    Food: 7/10    Beverage: NA

    Our top recommendation for a traditional brauhaus (brew house) in Cologne is this centrally located spot. The ceilings are high, the traditional tiny Kolsh beers are refilled endlessly (and kept track of by writing on coasters), and it is a more comfortable spot than many of the cramped brauhauses in the area. We enjoyed our currywurst!

    Top Bars

    Overall: Highly Recommend

    There is a cozy road in downtown Düsseldorf offering some of our favorite pubs in the world! Here are our recommendations: At Sutton’s Irish Pub ask for Mervin, skip Bei Fatty’s, at O’Reileys ask for Simon (who looks and speaks like he stepped out of Peaky Blinders), at McLaughlins ask for Danny. Then, at the end of your night, order a Pizza Diavola from Matteo’s, which is delicious and open until 4am. 

    More Restaurants & Bars...

    Overall: Consider

    Service: 7/10   Atmosphere: 6/10   Food: 7/10      Beverage Program: 6.5/10

    The Duchy is a hotel restaurant that boasts an impressive “fresh raw seafood” counter (with a tiny menu, ran by a tiny and talented chef). We highly recommend trying some of these creative dishes, and maybe skipping some of the menu standards.

    Overall: Consider

    Service: 6.5/10   Atmosphere: 6/10   Food: 6.5/10      Beverage Program: 3/10

    This cute and quaint sushi restaurant seems very good for sushi in Cologne, but compared to sushi restaurants worldwide, it’s nothing all too special. There is no sushi counter, and they only serve hot sake. However, it should be noted that the day we went the toro was amazing and the tuna clearly came in fresh that day. We would consider going back if we returned to Cologne.

    Overall: Consider

    Service: 6/10   Atmosphere: 6/10   Food: 6/10    Wine List: 8/10

    Go to this Italian restaurant for the wine list, which is the best we saw in our time in Germany. We went for lunch, and while we did not like the pastas (so sweet), we did see some locals ordering fresh fish and veggies, so we switched to that instead and enjoyed it.

    Overall: Consider

    Service: 6/10    Atmosphere: 6.5/10    Food: 7.5     Beverage Program: 5/10

    We enjoyed the sushi at this spot in Düsseldorf’s Japanese district, but most people seemed to go for the ramen, which we didn’t try but would suggest ramen lovers try out.

    Hotels

    The Steigenberger Frankfurter Hof is a historical hotel in a great, central area of Frankfurt. However, the hotel is really old (including tiny, scary elevators that shake) and it is boiling hot (the AC in the rooms do not work so we had to sleep with our balcony doors open). Next time, we would stay at the Sofitel, which some businessmen in our hotel recommended instead.

    Another older hotel in Germany, Excelsior Hotel Ernst is centrally located directly across from Cologne’s cathedral. This appeared to be the best hotel in Cologne, so we would recommend it. We also really enjoyed the hotel bar, which had a bit of a classic boat/ boys club feel, plus a good club sandwich. There is apparently a good sushi restaurant inside the hotel, but it was closed during our visit.

    We stayed at the Breidenbacher Hof Düsseldorf, and it was in a great, centrally located spot that we really did enjoy (specifically because it is walkable to the street with all the Irish pubs!) The gym was small but had the basics, and the pool was large but in a very heated space. The rooms were more modern and spacious than many of the other spots in Germany, the beds were very comfortable, and we would stay there again if we returned to Dusseldorf.

    Tourism & Travel Notes

    Carnival in Cologne is a quirky, costume-clad which opens at 11 minutes past 11 on the 11th of the 11th month November. It is wacky, and locals dress up for literal months at a time in traditional costume, and they are incredibly committed to it. If you go to Cologne during this time of year (and many other times where carnival is resumed), you will likely find yourself very confused. But also, finding opportunity for a lot of fun.

    Starting in November and ending early January, the winter markets in Germany are absolutely worth a visit. There is cheese, there is mulled wine (which is arguably disgusting), there are carols, and performers, and ice skating, and joy! We recommend it.

    Frankfurt airport officially gets the designation of our favorite airport in Europe. It is efficient, it is easy, and the food options inside of KLM’s main terminal are good (the small little circle immediately upon entry is the place to be. The bar is nice and there is an Italian spot with fabulous breakfast paninis and Aperol Spritz- this is where Jess spent the morning of her 31st birthday! If you have to spend it in an aiprort, Frankfurt is not bad at all.)

    Notable Places Visited & Not Reviewed

    Frankfurt– Burbank, Via Monte, and The Sekai: We were looking forward to these restaurants, but had to cancel our reservations due to jetlag. Let us know how they are! Oscar’s: Surprisingly fresh salads, but an average hotel restaurant vibe. Zukaya: Dark and moody. The service was great and the food was pretty good despite some weird menu items (we were too jetlagged to truly enjoy). Cologne– Brauhaus Fruh Am Dom- Cramped and crowded, skip. Hans Stube- Average food, kind of uppity ambiance, decent wine list. Düsseldorf– 20 Restobar– Skip, not very good food. Concept Reisling– Fine wine bar in market for a sip of local stuff, but not worth going out of your way for. Mayur India– Skip, curry very sweet.

    favorite moments

    Restaurant Lohinger in Frankfurt- the best
    Restaurant Lohinger in Frankfurt- the best
    Sunrise in Frankfurt
    Sunrise in Frankfurt
    Frankfurt airport is wildly impressive
    Frankfurt airport is wildly impressive
    Winter market in Cologne
    Winter market in Cologne
    Fresh raclette at winter market in cologne
    Fresh raclette at winter market in cologne
    Peaky Blinders!
    Peaky Blinders!
    Gio enjoying Kolsch Gaffel Am Dom
    Gio enjoying Kolsch Gaffel Am Dom
    Currywurst at Gaffel Am Dom
    Currywurst at Gaffel Am Dom
    Mulled wine at winter market in Cologne
    Mulled wine at winter market in Cologne
    Restaurant Lohinger in Frankfurt- the best
    Restaurant Lohinger in Frankfurt- the best
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  • Cotswolds & Bath, England

    The Cotswolds are having a well-deserved “moment”, and if you have done research on the Cotswolds, you understand just how spread out the area is. Our favorite spot is Castle Combe, a tiny town with two pubs and one castle/hotel The Manor House- which we highly recommend. A quick 30 minute drive from The Manor House is the larger city of Bath- home to Roman spas and infamous for hen parties- but also host to one of our favorite bars in the UK: The Dark Horse.

    On a UK tour? Check out our very complete London Guide.

    Don’t know what to pack? Here’s Jess’s Packing List.

    Top Restaurants

    Castle Inn Pub

    Overall: Highly Recommend

    Service: 8/10    Atmosphere: 7.5/10    Food: 9/10    Beverage Program: 4/10

    Maybe we are biased because Jess had the best dish of her life in this tiny pub in the middle of a very romantic and quaint town (it was the seasonal homity pie… think cheese and leeks and fresh garden peas in a perfectly buttery flaky crust.) This restaurant is part of The Manor House, located just down the cobblestone road and in the corner of town. Reservations are required (yes, for a pub, but it’s brilliant), and you’ll be surprised to find that the ambiance is much more up-and-coming-small-restaurant than that of your traditional pub. The wines are limited, but it’s the food that counts here.

    The Scallop Shell

    Overall: Highly Consider

    Service: 7/10    Atmosphere: 7/10    Food: 7/10    Wine: 6/10

    Before you see the score and feel like there’s a chance you could get away with skipping this place, don’t (instead, make a reservation for the downstairs section). Here’s why: the fish and chips are amazing, airy, and crispy- possibly the best we’ve ever had. Plus, as much as we don’t want to admit it… we didn’t love the food in Bath. Scallop Shell is the best bet. And, somehow, despite not loving the food scene, we still loved Bath and we would go back in a heartbeat. The city is charming, the spas and bath waters do seem to have a healing charm, and (here’s the real reason) the bar scene is incredible.

    Friend’s Takeaway

    Overall: Highly Consider

    Service: 9/10    Atmosphere: 2/10    Food: 8/10   

    We never thought we would put a to-go shawarma spot in our ‘Top Restaurant’ list, however Friend’s deserved it. A year after our trip to Bath, we still remembered these delicious gyros and the incredibly sweet service of one of our favorite late-night shawarma spots in the world. Go to Dark Horse bar, then go here after.

    Top Bars

    The Dark Horse

    Overall: Highly Recommend

    Service: 10/10    Atmosphere: 8/10    Bar Program: 9/10

    There is no explanation for why we did not have this on our travel plans in the first place. Maybe the photos made it look too— well— dark. But being on the World’s Best Bars radar, we should have known better. Turns out, we found this place by wandering around the cobblestone roads, seeing a group of people being turned away by a bouncer outside of a seemingly unmarked door, and then asking what the deal was. Reservations are required, but we were able to make one for later that night, which turned out to be the right call. The Dark Horse is one of our favorite bars in the UK, and it would rival almost any bar in London (other than The Connaught). We went two nights in a row. Trust us, it’s worth a stop. Note: They do not take bar seat reservations unless you ask very nicely.

    Full Glass Bar

    Overall: Highly Consider

    Service: 9.5/10   Atmosphere: 10/10   Bar Program: 9.5/10

    Located in The Manor House, this small and cozy bar is basically like having your own personal bartending staff in your living room (if your living room had an antique fireplace, oak paneling, leather-bound books, and plush seating). For history buffs: this is where Margaret Thatcher sat and wrote her memoirs. For cocktail buffs: they offer over 100 types of gin. For us: There is almost nothing wrong with this place unless, say, you hate gin and relaxing environments. If we built a house right now, we would have a room modeled after this. Also, this place can be fun, depending on the hotel’s guests. We had all the CFO’s of the UK’s top football teams stop by for a nightcap on their first night in, and many great stories were shared. It was one of our top nights ever. (They usually close when the last guest goes to bed.)

    More Restaurants & Bars...

    Overall: Consider

    Service: 6/10    Atmosphere: 5.5/10    Food: 7/10    Wine List: 7/10

    This 6-year-running Michelin star restaurant is located inside The Manor House in Castle Combe, and if you are in Castle Combe you should 100% go. On the greater scale of worldwide Michelin restaurants, this would not make our top 20. Part of this is our fault (honestly, we spent quite a bit too long sampling the 100+ gins the hotel has to offer in their cozy bar just down the hall before we made our way to the meal). This is also partly because it’s similar to many other Michelin-starred joints: medallions of meat, cheese cart at the end, the whole shebang. The restaurant was mostly empty, and there was no music. However, there were very memorable dishes… everything with butter (the UK and Ireland have some of the best), so if you are a butter fan, this is certainly up your alley (seaweed butter on the fish dish, a beautifully buttered bread and pastry, etc.)

    Overall: Worth A Visit

    Not rating

    When it comes to Bath, there are drinking holes down nearly every alley in the center of town. A favorite walk-in bar of ours is The Bath Distillery Gin Bar (formerly Canary Gin Bar), which offers unique gins in a slightly crowded bar with a slightly mature crowd. Weekends in Bath can be quite filled with Hen and Stag parties, and this place generally stays away from that.

    Overall: Recommend

    Service: 7/10     Atmosphere: 5.5/10    Food: 6.5/10   Beverage Program: 6.5/10

    It’s a little hard to give good ratings to an afternoon tea, because we are not big dessert people… and, as much as we try, we are not huge tea drinkers. That being said: The afternoon tea service at The Royal Crescent is very likely the best tea service in Bath. And the finger sandwiches were very good. We do wish the room was a little livelier and that the view was better (it’s just a back garden in the hotel), but we would still recommend doing this in Bath. It’s something interesting to do.

    Overall: Recommend (but not for everyone)

    Not rating

    Outside The Manor House’s Castle Inn Pub, there is only one other pub in Castle Combe. It is called The White Hart and it is certainly worth the short walk to explore this cozy drinking hole. However, fair warning— the owners are a lovely married couple. They express their feelings very directly through their incredibly dry sense of humor. We liked it. It’s not for everyone. They pour chili on chips here and it’s delicious.

    Hotels

    If you are going to Bath, we recommend staying at The Gainsborough Hotel. It is in a central location, and the spa is one of the few locations to provide direct access to the infamous thermal “bath” waters. The spa is a reason to stay at the hotel- it offers a stunning pool and a variety of “treatment” rooms with red light therapy, shaved ice, saunas, steam rooms, and more. The bar is small but comfortable. The whole hotel kind of smells like the spa.

    Our first time in the Cotswolds, we stayed in the village of Castle Combe at the romantic castle hotel The Manor House. This memorable castle has all the ‘quaint-ness’ of a bed and breakfast mixed with the perks of a high-end hotel. The property feels a bit like stepping into a fairy tale. They offer a Michelin-starred restaurant, a nearby gastronomic-focused pub, golfing, tea, clay pigeon shooting, and a fully stocked (gin focused) bar that stays open “‘til the last guest goes to sleep.” This is one of the most memorable places we have ever stayed, we have sent family members there, and we highly recommend it.

    The Vineyard is Napa vitner Peter Michael’s property in Newbury, a town in the Cotswolds. The nearby town was a little rough around the edges… and we left early, which probably says enough. 

    The next time we go to the Cotswolds, we will likely just return to The Manor House… however, if you want more options: Hampshire’s Four Seasons is just outside of central London (we were scared away a bit by how kid-centric the property is). We’ve also heard good things about the Soho Farmhouse in Oxfordshire (which you can book through the Soho Friends option if you’re not a Soho House member).

    The most famous hotel in Bath is The Royal Crescent, which we might consider more seriously next time (though we did like The Gainsborough).

    Tourism & Travel Notes

    On our first Cotswolds trip, we also stopped by Cardiff in Wales (about an hour drive from The Manor House). We stayed at The Parkgate Hotel, which was very business-y but seemed to be the best option in the downtown area. We didn’t stay long enough to merit a full post for Wales (and we’re likely going to Wales next year, so we can do a full post then), but we do have two great recommendations: Best Bar- The Dead Canary (Aka Here Be Dragons), Best Restaurant- Purple Poppadom (get an Uber because it’s not in the best area, but this family-owned Indian joint makes some of the best curries we’ve had).

    It takes about 1.5 hours to train from Paddington Station in London to Bath. And it’s about a 30 minute drive from Bath to The Manor House in Castle Combe. We recommend spending time in both spots. Uber is available, and your hotel can arrange private transportation if you prefer.

    Our first visit, we took this route:

    Paddington (London) -> Cardiff -> Castle Combe -> Bath -> Paddington (London)

    From London, we took a 2-hour train from Paddington Station to Cardiff (a five-minute walk from the city center). It only took about an hour to get to the Cotswolds from Cardiff— we hired a driver (Raj was great. He drives a roomy Mercedes V class. Here is his email: [email protected]). Then, we took another driver (this time through Nexus Transportation) for the 30-minute drive to Bath. We trained 1.5 hours back to London. The trains were comfortable & timely.

    Notable Places Visited & Not Reviewed

    Bath: Amarone: Randomly had some good wines but the food wasn’t memorable. The Chequers (Sunday Roast): Really tight quarters and the kid next to us had the stomach flu, so it wasn’t a great time.The Mint Room: Out of the way and average Indian food.  Noya’s Kitchen: Uncomfortable seating, and limited drink and food menus that were different from online. Newbury (Cotswolds): We’d skip Newbury. Castle Combe (Costwolds): We reviewed everything! Told you it was tiny 🙂

    favorite moments

    The Manor House
    The Manor House
    Streets of Castle Combe
    Streets of Castle Combe
    Jess's favorite dish of all time- Homity Pie from Castle Inn Pub
    Jess's favorite dish of all time- Homity Pie from Castle Inn Pub
    Gio very very happy at the bar at The Manor House
    Gio very very happy at the bar at The Manor House
    Bybrook dish with seaweed butter
    Bybrook dish with seaweed butter
    The Scallop Shell's fish and chips
    The Scallop Shell's fish and chips
    Irish coffee in the streets of Bath
    Irish coffee in the streets of Bath
    Screen Shot 2024-05-08 at 1.01.38 PM
    The Dark Horse bar- one of our favorites
    The Dark Horse bar- one of our favorites
    Screen Shot 2024-05-08 at 1.02.34 PM
    Such a big smiler, that guy
    Such a big smiler, that guy
    The Royal Crescent tea
    The Royal Crescent tea
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