• Bangkok, Thailand

    This is our guide to traveling Bangkok, including the best restaurants, bars, and hotels… with none of the seedy Khaosan road nightlife. Our favorite luxury hotel in Bangkok is absolutely The Capella (our #2 favorite hotel in the world), and Inddee is an must stop for Michelin fans.

    Traveling around Asia? Check out our Singapore Guide.

    Don’t know what to pack? Here’s Jess’s Packing List.

    Top Restaurants

    Inddee

    Overall: Highly Recommend

    Service: 8.5/10    Atmosphere: 7.5/10    Food: 8/10    Beverage Program: 7.5/10

    We will absolutely return to this 1 Michelin star modern Indian restaurant on our next trip to Bangkok. The first course took a very long time to get, otherwise the service would be rated even higher (we recommend requesting a seat at the ‘cold bar’ with Martin because he’s a 10/10 service-wise, same with the GM Felice). Anyways, plan on taking your time here. The tasting menu itself was very good, but the best dish we had was the chicken add-on, which was a play on a chicken dish the chef had growing up and it was as close to perfect as it gets. The sommelier holds the title of ‘Best Sommelier in Asia’ and, while the list heavily leans on natural wines- there are also traditional wines on the list (phew). The big names in the wine industry are missing, and are instead subbed for up-and-coming producers. This can be a positive or negative, depending on what you’re looking for. 

    Sri Trat

    Overall: Recommend

    Service: 8.5/10    Atmosphere: 6.5/10    Food: 8/10    Beverage Program: 5.5/10

    We generally lean away from booking restaurants with a Facebook page for a website, but it is worth sending a message to Sri Trat and securing a seat. This cozy, neighborhood Thai restaurant serves delicious and traditional food in a relaxed setting. The servers are super sweet, the AC is blowing, and the bar is fully stocked. Keep in mind- the wine list is practically non-existent, but there are tons of cocktails and a great list of local beers. For traditional Thai in a more comfortable setting than street stalls, Sri Trat is your place. Make sure to order the ‘stir fried giant tiger prawns with garlic chili fish sauce’ (winning the prize for the most garlic we’ve ever seen on a dish + just being delicious).

    Top Bars

    Stella at Capella

    Overall: Highly Recommend

    Service: 9/10   Atmosphere: 9/10    Bar Program: 9/10

    Not only is this our favorite bar in Bangkok, but it is one of our favorite bars in the world (so much so that we recommend staying at Capella partly so you can end your nights here). There is very good live music almost every night, and bartenders Tae and Frank are wonderful. The ambiance is excellent, the snacks are very good (we recommend the sliders), and all the staff is lovely. It can get busy on weekends (which can provide fun people-watching as influencers pose in front of the ‘white peacock’ centerpiece), so do make sure to make a reservation.

    Lennon’s

    Overall: Recommend

    Service: 8/10    Atmosphere: 8/10    Bar Program: 7/10

    Located on the top of the Rosewood Hotel (take the elevator to the lobby, then an additional elevator across the lobby up to Lennon’s). The views of the city are exceptional, and the vibe is very ‘Mad Men’. Please order the ‘Chantana Kittiyapan’- gin, mango, lychee, and jasmin tea served up- which is one of the best cocktails we’ve had in a while (we tested out tons of these to ‘make sure they’re consistent’… they are.)

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    Overall: Maybe

    Not rating

    We went to this very casual street-side Lebanese restaurant when the traffic got too bad to make it to another lunch. Let’s just say- the hummus was highly memorable and the breads were warm and delicious. Worth a stop if you also end up needing a traffic back-up. Or worth a stop if you’re craving delicious Lebanese food.

    Overall: Consider

    Service: 6.5/10    Atmosphere: 6.5/10        Beverage Program: 7.5/10

    10 stars go to the pretzels, which are the best we have ever had (and we’re not huge bar snack people). This bar is located in the historical House of Sathorn next to the W hotel. The drinks are very innovative. The ambiance is relaxing. Do wear mosquito repellent because it is slightly indoor-outdoor.

    Overall: Maybe

    Service: 6/10     Atmosphere: 7/10       Beverage Program: 6.5/10

    Located in the Four Seasons (walk through the lobby to the right, all the way end, then walk outside until you see it on your left), BKK Social is ranked #1 in Asia and #13 in the world… which should say a lot. We liked it, but we only went once (and we were staying next door). We will certainly give it another shot next time. Reservations required.

    Overall: Recommend

    Service: 8/10    Atmosphere: 7/10    Food: 7.5/10     Beverage Program: 6/10

    This chill yakitori bar is a hipster’s dream. It is modern, it is cool, the food is good (most served on a skewer), and the bartender/servers are lovely. We went twice in one week, and definitely recommend it if you want a chill night with easy food and good people (make a reservation). Tropic City is a popular cocktail bar just down the street, for a drink afterwards.

    Overall: Consider

    Not rated

    Ranked number 12 of Asia’s best bars, we did enjoy our first time at Vesper. Its a dimly lit bar with a creative cocktail list, and a good bartender named Sine. This last trip, we did not visit (partly because they request you make reservations on Instagram, then they never answer, and partly because there are so many other bars in Bangkok). Overall, it might be worth checking out again. Let us know what you think.

    Overall: Highly Consider

    Average rating over 2 visits:

    Service: 6.5/10   Atmosphere: 7/10   Food: 7/10   Wine list: 7/10

    The first time we went to Nahm, we loved it. So, on our following trip to Bangkok- it was the very first restaurant we booked. However, the second visit was a bit of a miss. They have 1 Michelin star, and while the service was attentive, they missed a couple simple things (like pouring wine equally). The true issue, though, was: spice. If our first visit had thai peppers in everything, our second had carolina reapers. It was so spicy that even Jess (who can eat almost anything spicy) couldn’t even finish her tom yum soup (which was one of Gio’s favorite dishes the year before). When we mentioned this, they did nothing to adjust the spice in upcoming courses. However- the wine list is pretty good, especially for Asia. But the reason we can’t highly recommend Nahm is due to the spice inconsistency.

    Overall: Consider

    Service: 6.5/10    Atmosphere: 8/10    Food: 6.5/10     Beverage Program: NA (we can’t remember)

    This rooftop Mexican restaurant next to The Standard hotel is known for it’s beautiful views and decor, rightfully securing it’s spot on the top Instagram must-visit lists. The food is also not bad. We recommend going for a drink before dinner to check it out, and staying if you feel it is right for you. There is a line for the viewing tower at the entrance to the building- do not wait in it- you can skip the line with a reservation at OJO (yes, you definitely should make a reservation- even for drinks).

    Overall: Recommend

    Service: 7/10    Atmosphere: 7.5/10    Food: 7.5/10     Wine List: 5.5/10

    This is a comfortable Chinese restaurant with good food and a traditional, relaxed restaurant setting (think Shang Palace Paris environment). Located in The Athenee Hotel, you will need to take the first elevator you see on your left (near the reception) to the restaurant’s floor. There is a crunchy shrimp spring roll that is outstanding (one is big enough for 2 people), and the peking duck was pretty good. Another recommendation is the green beans with pork (which includes a pepper that numbs your mouth a little and is oddly addicting). As for the wine list- while it may look good, they did not have any of the wines we asked for in stock, so we had to go with the manager’s replacements.

    Overall: Recommend

    Service: 7.5/10    Atmosphere: 7/10    Food: 7/10     Beverage Program: 7/10

    Tucked in the back of the Four Seasons (directly across the lobby, but you need to walk indoors around the water feature), this is a good Chinese restaurant for pretty solid peking duck. We enjoyed our visit, but it did get rather busy. Best to make a reservation.

    Hotels

    The Capella is our top recommendation for hotels in Bangkok (and one of our top 3 favorite hotels in the world) and is likely the only hotel we will ever stay at in Bangkok again. Located on the river and next to the Four Seasons, it is more peaceful than the center of bustling city, but it is easy to get around to other locations (however, you must plan around traffic). The rooms are spacious, comfortable, and cool. The pool is lovely and has a great view of the river. The gym is well equipped and spacious. The spa is nice, too. If there is a downside, we didn’t like the restaurant… but Stella (the bar) is so good that it more than makes up for it.

    The Standard is in Silom, which is a good area for restaurants and bars. However, we left The Standard early and moved to Capella. The pool was small and fully in the sun, and we just felt a little old to be there (that being said- if you like Virgin Cruises, this might be a good fit).

    The first time we went to Bangkok together, we stayed at the St. Regis, which is located in the ‘business’ area of Bangkok, and near many other 5 star hotels. While we had a good stay there, we found ourselves moving around a lot and the area itself was a little too ‘business-ey’ for our idea of vacation. However, we would recommend this hotel if that is what you are looking for.

    There were certainly some advantages to staying at Rosewood Hotel– the automatic butler service for suites was nice, Lennon’s bar was good, and we personally really loved the pool (despite all the bad reviews of it online- there are very few seats and most of the pool is in the shade, which works great for us). Overall though, Rosewood is still in the ‘business’ area, which we don’t really enjoy (and the traffic makes it especially tough to get around). And while it may seem a lot in that area is connected through indoor paths, walkways are all outdoor (and it can get too hot for us).

    We have visited Four Seasons for the restaurants and bars, but haven’t stayed there and probably won’t end up doing so. We did hear that some people switched hotels from Four Seasons to Capella next door, our favorite spot. Waldorf Astoria was on the short list for our last trip, but it is in the business area we don’t love. Another hotel on the short list was the Siam Kempinski, which we didn’t choose partly because of the location and partly because we were afraid there might be too many families (a plus for many, but not for us yet). We stopped by the Shangri-La for dinner one night, and based on that we would skip the whole hotel.

    Tourism & Travel Notes

    We highly recommend getting a hotel car to pick you up from the airport, because the exit can be a bit overwhelming, especially if you’re not very familiar it. Otherwise, we use Grab (basically Uber) to get around most countries in Asia, including Bangkok. Tuk-tuks are convenient for getting around traffic, but do so at your own risk because accidents are certainly not unheard of (same with Grab motorcycles, which may be quick but they do not provide helmets and yeah… we’d skip that one). 

    It is illegal for anyone, anywhere to sell alcohol between 2-5PM and after midnight on Sundays. This is easy to work with if you know, annoying if you go to a late lunch unaware.

    We can’t imagine anyone describing Bangkok as a “very safe city”. So do be very aware, especially at night. We recommend avoiding the red light areas as a whole, for more reasons than just safety. But basically- keep your belongings close and don’t get too drunk anywhere in Bangkok. But there is much fun to be had, so enjoy!

    Notable Places Visited & Not Reviewed

    Benjarong Thai: Just okay food and service was lacking, we left before fully ordering what we had initially planned. Din Tai Fung Central Embassy location: Not edible (and we love Din Tai Fung in the US). Fourth Wall: (Vesper Group Bar) Skip. Their “specialty cocktail” was a French 75. Nan Bei: The crispy chicken was dry, but the pot stickers were good. Riva del Fiume: Located in the Four Seasons, this Italian restaurant was a little too “foo-foo” for us, when we really just wanted good Italian. Saawaan: Most disappointing one-Michelin star purely because of the food, which ranged from bland to inedible. Please don’t go. Salathip Thai Restaurant: Tourist trap. Shang Palace: While we love the one in Paris, we didn’t even make it into this restaurant because we had been to the hotel for dinner the night before (at Salathip) and it was straight-up dirty.

    favorite moments

  • Singapore

    The first time we went to Singapore, we thought we’d never go back. Here is what we did wrong after the first visit, and what we’ve learned after visit #3- don’t stay in Orchard (even if Anthony Bourdain did), pack for high humidity, don’t expect anything from the airport, and visit our favorite restaurants and bars, all listed below.

    Traveling around Asia? Check out our Bangkok Guide.

    Don’t know what to pack? Here’s Jess’s Packing List.

    Top Restaurants

    Thevar

    Overall: Must Go

    Service: 9/10   Atmosphere: 7.5/10   Food: 10/10    Wine List: 8.5/10

    This is the first restaurant we have ever given a 10/10 food ranking to, and Thevar deserves it. Chef Thevar is the most talented young chef we have ever come across- and this modern Indian restaurant is a huge reason why we have returned to Singapore time and time again (this restaurant alone might be worth a trip to Singapore, to be honest). Thevar operates a tasting menu that combines French and Japanese techniques with sublime Indian flavors. Located in arguably the best area for innovative food- Tanjong Pagar- Thevar is an open-kitchen concept in a modern, but narrow space. Aside from table seating, there are 2 seats at the chef’s counter- which we highly recommend requesting. The food is consistent, technical, memorable, deeply flavorful, and it certainly deserves its 2 Michelin stars (plus the highly-acclaimed spot of offering some of the best dishes of our lives). We could not recommend this restaurant enough. If you have one dinner in Singapore- go to Thevar.

    Ocean

    Overall: Highly Recommend

    Service: 9/10   Atmosphere: 10/10   Food: 9/10    Wine List: 8.5/10

    Located in the aquarium of Resorts World on Sentosa Island, a 15 minute drive from central Singapore… this tasting menu restaurant is a once-in-a-lifetime meal. We went for the experience- dining inside an aquarium- and we were left with our jaws dropping to the floor. The food was exceptional. The wine list was great. The service was world-class. And while we were certainly entertained by the 40,000 underwater creatures circling around us, the fact that we were deeply impressed with everything else says a lot. We highly recommend going for lunch and doing the full 6 course tasting meal, as we did. There is a dress code, and children under 8 are not allowed.

    Yen Yakiniku

    Overall: Highly Consider

    Service: 9/10    Atmosphere: 7.5/10    Food: 9.5/10    Wine: 8.5/10

    Yen Yakiniku is a chef’s counter dining experience, where everything from A5 Wagyu to king oyster mushrooms are cooked to order, on a grill directly in front of you. While they do offer omakase, we truly enjoyed ordering a la carte, especially given recommendations from Queenie- the very sweet server we suggest you request. The restaurant is a mixture of Japanese, Korean, and Taiwanese cuisine- which somehow manages to work extremely well. While the wine list is very limited, there are several solid sake options, as well as beer, sochu, and the like. There is only bar counter seating, but the vibe still manages to come off as quite high-end (and trendy, of course, being near Tanjong Pagar). We heard weekends fill up, so try for a weekday night. We highly recommend the Spanish Iberico pork jowl, the side of roasted garlic, and of course the wagyu. Jess almost finished 2 full orders of the kimchi, so get that too.

    Top Bars

    Atlas

    Overall: Highly Recommend

    Service: 7/10    Atmosphere: 9.5/10    Bar Program: 10/10

    To clarify- the beverage program is a 10/10 for gin drinkers, with a true selection of over 1,200 gins to choose from at your whim. They have other cocktails, too, which are great- but this is a gin bar (plus random afternoon tea and some other food). Located in certainly one of the most extravagant buildings- with glamorous art-deco decor and tremendously high ceilings- Atlas has one of the most stunning settings for a bar we have ever seen and is a perfect place to spend an afternoon (.5 subtracted for the bathrooms, otherwise atmosphere would be a 10). When you book make sure to request bar seats (but know the tables are comfortable too). And ask to sit with Lana, who runs the bar program and is wonderful. There is apparently a ‘Gin Experience’, but we were told it is really just walking in a circle and up a couple stairs, so maybe skip that. This is one of the few spots located north of Marina Bay Sands (and not in Tanjong Pagar) that we highly recommend.

    Tippling Club

    Overall: Highly Recommend

    Service: 8/10   Atmosphere: 7/10     Food:   8/10     Bar Program: 8/10

    We booked the Tippling Club Bar Experience (which is in the link above) and ended up returning the very next day. Tippling Club is in the trendy Tanjong Pagar area (because of course it is) and is one of the first bespoke cocktail bars to exist in Singapore. The drinks are great, the service is great (ask for Aaron the manager), and… the bar menu is outstanding. We recommend the fried fish sandwich and the Mapo Tofu fries. This is definitely one of our favorite bars in Singapore, if not our favorite. Next time, we will go for the full tasting menu at the connected restaurant. 

    Jigger & Pony

    Overall: Recommend

    Service: 7/10   Atmosphere: 8/10   Bar Program: 8/10

    Number 14 of the Worlds 50 Best Bars list in 2024, Jigger & Pony is arguably the most famous bar in Singapore, if not one of the most famous in all of Asia. Small tip: If you cannot get bar seats, do not go. If you can, do. You have to make a reservation well in advance. The drinks are good, the style is very Mad-Men-esque, and the bartenders are usually very personable. We also recommend the grilled cheese.

    More Restaurants & Bars...

    Overall: Highly Consider

    Service: 7/10   Atmosphere: 7/10    Food: 8/10    Beverage: NA (Korean liquor only)

    One of the most impressive things about this modern Korean restaurant is that we believed it had one Michelin star the entire time we ate there (it doesn’t) and we left convinced that it did (it still doesn’t, but should). This delicious Korean restaurant has a warm and modern design with authentic and flavorful food, and we plan on returning to in the future. Everything on the menu was good (our least favorite was the Sotbap rice), but definitely do not miss the beef tartar, hogam jeon (potato pancake), or the grilled iberico pork app. The wine list is non-existent, but they offer Korean liquors so this is your time to try Soju!

    Overall: Don’t really recommend

    Not rating

    This is the famous bar on the top of the Marina Bay Sands hotel (the one that looks like a cruise ship stacked on 3 skyscrapers). You need to pay a cover fee, which applies to your drinks. If there is a line, it is not worth waiting. Go to Wakuda for a drink (40 steps away) and wait for the line to die down, then go up. At the top, walk straight and veer left out of the elevators to enter the bar and get a seat (hopefully with Ross, who is great). You can wander around most of the roof once you enter, and it is worth one visit if you want a view of the city. The best view is after exiting the elevator, taking a right and walking down the hallway until you get outside and immediately turning left to the railing- where you can see the Gardens by the Bay etc.

    Overall: Worth A Visit (surprisingly!)

    Not rating

    If you’re in Marina Bay Sands and you’re looking for a quite bar nibble, stop by CUT by Wolfgang Puck for a tuna tartare. They are only open from 5PM on, but the bar staff is lovely and we were very pleasantly surprised when we stumbled across it after getting off a late flight. They even got us shiso-detesters to try a shiso drink, which we surprisingly liked! The atmosphere is nice and cool, and it’s a good spot for a quick stop after a long day.

    Overall: Recommend

    Not rating

    We’ve only been once, very late at night, and stayed until 3am closing- where the staff lip-synched 90’s classics and served cups of chicken soup at the end. It feels unfair to rate. But, it was one of our favorite nights in Singapore so- despite having a hard time getting bar seats on a crowded Saturday- we definitely recommend. We’ll be back to review properly.

    Overall: Highly Recommend

    Service: 7.5/10   Atmosphere: 8/10    Food: 8/10    Beverage: 5.5/10 

    Despite the low rating for the beverage program (which is basically just a really terrible wine list plus some pretty good cocktails), we highly recommend this restaurant, especially for lunch when they are less busy and the service is better than good (ask for manager Lukasz who is amazing). This modern Indian restaurant was started by a professional restaurant designer, and it shows- each room has a unique theme (from elephants to tigers) and the design is really unique. There is a semi-set menu at lunch (a la carte at dinner), which we normally do not prefer, but it is GOOD. Skip the fish and go for the pork iberico instead, which is incredible. We also highly recommend the tomato and ginger chutneys, plus the lentils (which are spicy) with a side of black garlic naan.

    Overall: Highly Consider

    Service: 9/10    Atmosphere: 8/10    Food: 7.5/10    Wine: 6/10

    This is the first modern-Singaporean restaurant to receive 1 Michelin star. They take technique seriously, with the lunch tasting menu requiring a minimum of 3 hours. The food is basically gastronomic versions of local Singaporean dishes- saving you a trip from the hot hawker stalls and giving you well-executed dishes in a comfortable environment. Located on the second floor of a mall across the street from the Ritz Carlton & Mandarin Oriental- the restaurant is dark and trendy, with plenty of space between tables. While there were unique wines from Syria, China, and more, the list was smaller than expected and there were only 2 white burgundies (one being Corton Charlemagne). Our server, Sho, was super friendly and he is a somm- we highly recommend requesting him if possible. Oh, and the shaved ice for dessert was amazing.

    Overall: Consider

    Service: 6/10   Atmosphere: 7/10    Food: 5/10    Beverage: 7/10 

    Many people might think the draw of MO Bar at the Mandarin Oriental is the view (it’s good), but it’s really bartender Kim- a cheery and hospitable bartender from South Korea, who whips up clever cocktails and has a habit for remembering every guest. Go there for him, expect crowded elevators (see Mandarin Oriental hotel review below), enjoy some good cocktails, skip the food, expect weird service from everyone besides Kim, and know that if there is live music it might not be good (at all). We recommend going for a quick drink when they open at 5, if it is convenient for you.

    Overall: Recommend (but only if you’re staying on Sentosa Island)

    Service: 8/10    Atmosphere: 4/10    Food: 8/10    Beverage Program: 5/10

    This restaurant is certainly not worth going out of your way for… however… if you are staying on Sentosa Island (which we do not recommend) it is the #2 restaurant, only behind Ocean. The ambiance is cafeteria like, and your best bet for drinks is sake, but we got very lucky with a great server and the food was truly outstanding- think perfectly seared wagyu beef and specialty cuts of meat that arrived just that day.

    Overall: Recommend

    Not rating

    We only had time to stop downstairs for a few drinks and snacks, which is why it isn’t fair for us to review this (especially because their infamous cocktail bar is upstairs). However, every drink on the menu is clarified (a big yes for us) and none of the drinks were too sweet, plus the local Singaporean ingredients were very unique. The head chef was very sweet- make sure to try her mom’s very spicy hot sauce. 

    Overall: Highly Recommend

    Service: 8.5/10    Atmosphere: 8/10    Food: 8/10    Beverage Program: 7/10 (nice sake list)

    We booked the ‘Premium Lunch Menu’ omakase, which is more like what Americans who have been to Japan know kaiseke to be- many tiny prepared dishes, and not sushi. Kosuke, the head chef, was incredibly sweet and very creative, making some of the most stunning presentations for his intricately prepared dishes. Including the best mackarel we have ever had (in a sesame preparation), some other favorites were soba noodles served in carved ice and the amazing (and not too sweet) desserts. This restaurant is tucked away near Chinatown, and also offers a wagyu lunch- which we would definitely look into next time.

    Overall: Recommend

    Service: 6.5/10    Atmosphere: 7.5/10    Food: 7.5/10    Beverage Program: 6/10

    This Chinese restaurant in the Pan Pacific Hotel is one of the better Chinese restaurants in Singapore. Our food rating could be higher, but we probably didn’t order right (we would suggest avoiding their specialty crab dish unless you truly love saffron). However, what we did order right: a delicious modern ‘cigar’ made with foie gras, truffle, and snow crab that we highly recommend (it is big enough to share, but the layers differ in flavors so you might want two). There is a vegetable dish that includes ‘lotus root stuffed with prawn mousse’ that is outstanding.

    Overall: Consider

    Service: 7.5/10    Atmosphere: 6.5/10    Beverage Program: 9/10

    The reason to go to Sago House is for the cocktail program. This bar is #10 in Asia’s best bars, and they create a brand new cocktail menu… every… single… week. The best part was that every single cocktail was expertly balanced, creative, and you could still ask for a bespoke cocktail to your taste. This Tanjong Pagar hotspot is in a narrow semi-grungy spot with a very thoughtful bathroom that added .5 to the atmosphere.

    Overall: Recommend

    Service: 7.5/10    Atmosphere: 7.5/10    Food: 7.5/10    Beverage Program: 5/10 (beer, sake)

    For uni lovers only. Located on level 3 of the small Bugis Cube building, this tiny 6-seat sushi counter gave us the first ever uni soup of our lives- which might be one of Jess’s favorite dishes of all time and also a dish she never imagined she would love so much. We opted for the lunch omakase, and the reason the food rating isn’t higher is only because the actual sushi courses were very traditionally aged fish (which we don’t love, but some people might). However, this is a great place. We’ll likely go again in the future for the uni tasting and uni soup, plus the negitoromaki handroll add-on that we devoured happily.

    Hotels

    So far, our favorite hotel in Singapore is the Ritz Carlton Millenia. While it certainly doesn’t top our list of ‘best hotels in the world’, it is in a good location, has a very good gym, and offers both a comfortable pool and nice rooms. They do have a hotel bar, Republic. And the service was nice when we stayed there. 

    On our next trip to Singapore, we will likely either return to the Ritz or check out a hotel in Tanjong Pagar area, which we haven’t stayed in yet.

    The Mandarin Oriental is okay and it is in a very good location (next door to the Ritz Carlton), but it can get really busy. A big problem is that they offer a buffet dinner, which families of mostly non-hotel guests flock to, and there are lines that block the elevators (then fill the elevators with 20+ people). This all sounds terrible- which it is- but it does only last an hour or so. The MO Bar is good. Also, we’re not really breakfast people, but the breakfast at this hotel is great and offers global cuisines plus a very sweet old pastry chef who is very proud of his croissants. We stayed in the family suite for access to laundry facilities- and the room was pretty comfortable overall. The pool was nice, especially in the early afternoon, and the gym was well-equipped albeit a bit tight. 

    Ugh. For being a 5-star hotel, there are some major problems with The Fullerton Bay Hotel. Good things: the location is convenient and the AC works perfectly. The bad: There is approx 2 sq ft of shade in the pool that disappears by noon, mold in the showers, confused concierges, a busy gym with a max capacity of 4 people… and no indoor bar. Overall- skip it.

    While the Four Seasons is fine, Orchard as an area is very business-oriented and too inconvenient for all the restaurants we love and recommend, so we’d skip this hotel for the location alone.

    Jess’s mom loves the Capella Sentosa, so we are not allowed to say anything too harsh. That being said- we do not recommend staying on Sentosa Island, and Capella is the best hotel there (Taylor Swift, Donald Trump, and Kim Jong Un have all frequented). We had a serious problem with the AC in our room, and the restaurants at the hotel were poor (but the pools were lovely, and if you do stay there Sara at the pool gave the best service).

    Do yourself a favor and stay on mainland Singapore, and visit Ocean restaurant for lunch on Sentosa, but skip the rest of this little futuristic kid-land.

    We have never given hotels in Tanjong Pagar a chance- which we are likely to do next time because almost all of the good bars and restaurants are in that area. We are curious about The Mondrian, which is in an ideal location.

    On a separate note- The Fullerton is really outdated, busy, and it has a bad pool. Marina Bay Sands is the most iconic hotel, but with 2,500 rooms it is really not for us.

    Tourism & Travel Notes

    One time, when landing on Air France, the pilot came on the speaker and warned everyone that ‘Any THC or CBD product, including gummies and creams, are punishable… by death.’

    Make sure to look up everything you are bringing in online to make sure it is allowed (including sleeping pills and the like). Here’s the government link.

    Also, ensure you fill out your Singapore arrival card online before landing. You can then quickly scan your passport when you leave. If you are asked to pay money to fill out this card online- it is a scam. Singapore Air provided us with a link to the direct government site here

    Singapore Airport has the best marketing team, because many of us are under the impression that it is the best airport in the world and… eh. (Maybe it’s because of the waterfall, which is fine to see once but Disneylandy nonetheless).

    The good news: Security is at each individual gate, so you save a lot of time (hence, do not have to get to the airport that early). When you arrive at the airport, you simply go through immigration and get into your terminal.

    The bad news: We’re pretty sure it’s a scam. We actually saw a poster marketing a ‘deal’ of 3 pints of Guinness for nearly $60. Super normal for Singapore Airport. All of the (2) bars per terminal are empty, and the people that work there seem genuinely confused when guests do sit down and order something. But, you can buy 3 pints of Guinness? So… there’s that. Also- hate to say it- but the Singapore Air Business lounge is also rough (however, the food on the flight can be really good- Jess recommends pre-ordering the bibimbap).

    Also: If you are flying Business on Singapore Air and the airport screens flash that your flight is doing ‘last call’, that is for economy. You have an extra 10-ish minutes. It makes no sense, and you cannot time it perfectly. Go to the gate, but do not panic.

    Point is: Don’t go early.

    Grab is the Uber of Southeast Asia, and Singapore is no exception. Make sure to select the option for paying with your credit card in advance, or the driver will expect cash upon arrival at your destination. Grab is especially convenient at the airport, and we highly recommend using it instead of booking a car through the hotel. For anyone who has used Uber before- download the app and upload your credit card before arrival in Singapore… then it is really, really easy.

    Here’s a link to a Google map of Singapore’s districts.

    D1 Raffles Place: This is where The Fullerton Bay hotels are. While it is central and has a good view of Marina Bay Sands (MBS), it’s not our favorite area. It’s a little busy and touristy.

    D2 Tanjong Pagar: Our favorite area with the best restaurants and bars around. Young and vibrant with colonial architecture.

    Chinatown: Very close to Tanjong Pagar with good restaurants and good markets.

    Marina Bay Sands: This is a huge expanse covering the hotel, neighboring mall, expansive casino, and the gardens are nearby. It’s busy. It’s touristy. And while it’s not really our thing, we do end up there at least once every trip.

    Millenia Walk: This is near the Ritz and Mandarin Oriental. We like staying in this area because it is less busy than across the river, while being walkable if the weather permits. It is quieter and comfortable (and sometimes under construction, but that’s everywhere in Singapore).

    National Gallery Area: This is where Long Bar and the National Gallery is. It’s a nice part of town and quite walkable, but there isn’t too much going on at night (that we know of).

    D6 Beach Road: This is near Atlas Bar & Haji Ln (a lively tourist spot with graffiti and small restaurants). It’s a cool area we would like to explore more.

    D8 Little India: We are terrible tourists because we have never been.

    D9 Orchard: While this was Anthony Bourdain’s place to stay, we found it really out of the way for what we wanted to do. Plus, it truly did feel like a business district and bored us.

    Sentosa: This resort and amusement island is a 15 min drive from central Singapore. We do not recommend staying here or even bothering going out of your way to visit. However, we absolutely recommend going to Ocean Restaurant for a once-in-a-lifetime lunch.

    Hawker Stalls: This is a tourist right of passage in Singapore, but we have always had a really hard time with it due to the heat. Maxwell is certainly one of the more touristy spots, and Albert is very authentic. We recommend choosing a smaller center close to your hotel (some are air conditioned in malls and are reminiscent of US food courts). If you do go, note that seats are ‘reserved’ by people putting everything from a stack of tissues to their phones in front of a seat. Look for a chicken rice stand with some locals in front of it… But maybe make another lunch reso, just in case.

    Art Science Museum: This is the building that looks like a lotus in front of the Marina Bay Sands. Avoid unless you are going with children and are comfortable with crowds. Very strange exhibits that are not very nice. VR was broken when we went (it did not mention this online, and it seemed to have been out of order for a while).

    Gardens by the Bay: Marked by the big flower-like statues you see- this spot can get busy but the statues are fun to see lit up at night- we like the rooftop views at Ce La Vie.

    Cloud Forest: The best part of Gardens by the Bay and temperature-controlled to stay cool.

    Water/Light Show in Marina Bay: Underwhelming. Usually occur around 8pm and 9pm nightly. Do not leave dinner early to see this.

    Marina Bay Sands: Shopping galore and wildly busy on weekends, and around concert times. If you want to go on the roof, wait until late and go to Ce La Vie for a drink, or make a reservation at Spago. There is a wait for everything here, so reservations are important.

    National Gallery: Good views with solid restaurant options in a multi-level museum.

    Long Bar: Do. Not. Go. (see below)

    Of course, always be cautious while traveling. That being said, Singapore is probably the safest country we have ever visited (in large part due to the very severe punishments with being caught for any crime). You don’t need to worry about being robbed, mugged, taken, etc. If anything, you need to worry more about you getting yourself into trouble. Small things to be cautious of:

    – Absolutely do not even think about bring chewing gum into the country (And definitely no THC or CBD products!)

    – While jaywalking is illegal, locals say that tickets are given if you cross the street illegally within 50 meters of a crosswalk

    – Everything you do is on camera. Apparently tourists show up at the airport immigration and learn there if they were caught doing something illegal/given tickets there.

    Other unique laws can be found here.

     

    Notable Places Visited & Not Reviewed

    Analog Bar: Trendy and cool vegan bar with health-focused cocktails. Book Bar: Cute Tanjong Pagar bookstore and cafe that ‘happens’ to serve alcohol, with local authors. Cat Bite Club: Cool bar (walk to the very back) that is worth a stop, especially if you like tequila and mezcal. Cherry Garden: Unbelievably bad on all accounts. Please avoid. Elephant Room: A popular bar with innovative cocktails, we liked it but didn’t love it. Fiamma: Jess’s dad said it was the worst meal he’d had in memory and we understand. Garibaldi: Extensive wine list but only alright food and service. The atmosphere is boring and not very high-end. Imperial Treasure: This chain is meh. Avoid. Jypsy One Fullerton: The whole area is weird and touristy. Skip. Khiri: Big disappointment. Definitely skip. KOMA: Standard sushi (but the DIY tuna is good) in a well-designed space that fits with the TAO brand. Often open between lunch and dinner even if it says closed online. LONG BAR: We had to emphasize it…. DO NOT GO. Biggest tourist trap in Singapore and your reward for waiting in a hot and miserable line (which is unceasing) is a very large sour/sweet Singapore Sling that will roll around in your stomach for hours after you step on other people’s used peanut shells. It might sound fun, but it is (at best) mediocre. Do. Not. Recommend. Madame Fan: Ok atmosphere, below average food, decent wine list. Nighthawk: A way too tiny bar that gets packed but has good service. Panamericana: Fine food for Sentosa. Republic: Just an ok bar. Shinsora: This was one of our favorite omakase experiences of all time, led by sushi genius Sky Tai, but days after we tried it they switched concepts to private dining only. We would recommend it if that’s something you’re interested in. 8 seats, minimum of 2 week advance notice, booking available on their site. Shoukouwa: Worst omakase ever, do not waste your time. Avoid. Smoke & Mirrors: This mostly outdoor, barely indoor bar in the National Gallery is worth going for the views if the weather is good. Summer Pavillion: The service was good but the food was just ok. +twelve: Please avoid this terrible place. Wakuda: We only went for snacks and drinks, but both were solid. Febby runs the bar program and she is awesome.

    favorite moments

  • Tokyo & Osaka, Japan

    Japan is a world of it’s own and a must-see for any sushi-living globe trotter. Some of the best bars in Japan are in Osaka- including a favorite Bar Nayuta. And you might be surprised to learn the bar in Lost in Translation is not actually a physical bar, but a communal table at the Park Hyatt. We think the best tempura is at Tsunahachi in Shinjuku, Tokyo. And our biggest piece of advice is to learn a little Japanese before you go (Jess’s useful Japanese essentials are listed below).

    Traveling around Asia? Check out our complete Singapore Guide.

    Don’t know what to pack? Here’s Jess’s Packing List.

    Top Restaurants

    WAJO (Osaka)

    Overall: Highly Recommend

    Service: 9.5/10    Atmosphere: 10/10    Food: 9/10    Beverage Program: NA (Sommelier pairing was very good)

    Located on a high floor of the St. Regis Osaka, and overlooking the city below, this dining experience takes Teppanyaki to the next level. In semi-private to private dining rooms, you have a personal chef preparing delicious bites- ranging from cold appetizers to grilled meats and vegetables- on a mini-kitchen in front of you. Truly, if you want a fine-dining experience with good food- this is our top recommendation in all of Japan. (Jess isn’t the biggest steak person, and she ate every bite of her wagyu). We did the basic set menu with the sommelier pairing. It really doesn’t get much better than this.

    Musashi by Aman (Tokyo)

    Overall: Highly Recommend

    Service: 8.5/10    Atmosphere: 7/10    Food: 9/10    Beverage Program: 8/10

    This was our favorite omakase in Japan. Master Chef Musashi takes great pride in his fish and seaweed quality, but especially cares about his rice (he beamed with pride when Jess mentioned she liked the texture). It turns out, he is famous for growing the rice himself. There was also a delicious eel hand roll that we are not sure we will ever forget. This quiet sushi bar is located in the highly luxurious Aman hotel (they only let hotel guests in, so if your reservation is at 7pm… you get let in at 7pm… however, if you simply ‘pretend’ that it is earlier, you sneak in and have a drink at their stunning bar beforehand). 

    Tsunahachi in Shinjuku Tempura (Tokyo)

    Overall: Highly Recommend

    Service: 8/10   Atmosphere: 7.5/10    Food: 9/10    Beverage: 2/10

    This walk-in only tempura spot was recommended to us by our hotel concierge as the ‘number 1 must-eat’. Two reasons we almost didn’t go: We don’t love the idea of fried food for a whole meal, and we are definitely not line people. But at the high recommendation, we decided to give it a try. We arrived in line before their 11am opening for lunch, which we recommend doing (the wait can be very long), and we were in the first seating. This was the best tempura we have had in our lives, and it was so light that we felt great afterwards. We did not feel that gross fried-food feeling, and I think that is a testament to the chefs (which you can watch from the counter) and their centuries-old recipes. Do not order the one burgundy- stick to sake.

    Oryori Hayashi Kaiseki (Kyoto)

    Overall: Highly Recommend

    Service: 9.5/10   Atmosphere: 8.5/10    Food: 9/10    Beverage: NA

    This Kaiseki traditional lunch in Kyoto was so incredible that it’s hard to put into words. If we were in charge of giving Michelin stars away, we would certainly give this place 2. Tucked into a tiny building that feels more like a house, we were sat in a tiny room upstairs where you sit on cushions on the floor and drop your feet into a lowered section under the table. This is a multi-course sensory experience containing small bites of both raw and cooked traditional Japanese dishes. Fun fact: Gio was not a big uni fan before this, but the uni dish changed him. It is (and will probably forever be) the best uni either of us have ever had in our lives. 

    This is the only restaurant we visited in Kyoto. We hired a driver in Osaka and it took about one hour to get to Kyoto (be careful with your timing, however, with traffic it took us much longer to get back).

    Top Bars

    Bar Nayuta (Osaka)

    Overall: Highly Recommend

    Service: 9.5/10   Atmosphere: 8.5/10   Bar Program: 9/10

    This no-reservations bar is run by a creative/grungy Osakan with an Australian accent, and it is great. A bit difficult to find, it is best to search for the logo from their instagram and go from there, before tucking under a short door (an old Japanese bar tradition to keep people’s swords out of bars). There is no menu. The bartender listens to what you like a creates an herbal concoction of your dreams. It is like stepping into an apothecary and leaving happily tipsy. Make sure to buy him a drink (which is very common in Japan!)

    L&L Bar (Osaka)

    Overall: Recommend

    Service: 9/10    Atmosphere: 6/10    Bar Program: 5/10

    We watched the World Cup here (and visited at least 2 other times because we loved it so much). This casual bar has the best service and no one ever seems to like sitting at the actual bar (many large groups sit at tables)- so we got two bar seats every night. This is a super popular local place, and the service is great- we still follow some of the bartenders on Instagram.

    Bar Qwang (Tokyo)

    Overall: Recommend

    Service: 8/10   Atmosphere: 8/10   Food: 6/10 (fish cakes are a 9)   Bar Program: 8.5/10

    This basement-level bar in the Minato City area of Tokyo is incredibly charming. The bartender is a kind older gentleman who takes great care and caution with each of his cocktails, and his wife cooks up delicious bites in the back kitchen. We went two nights in a row.

    Bar B&F (Tokyo)

    Overall: Recommend

    Service: 8/10   Atmosphere: 7/10    Bar Program: 8/10

    This sister bar of the famous Benfiddich, which we were not fans of (exclusively for tourists). This bar has more locals, and an Irish-theme, which we enjoy. We visited during the winter, so the Irish music in this comfortable spot felt right. There is no menu, but there are English speaking bartenders. They have hard to find spirits we love such as Silent Pool and Martin Millers (our favorite!)

    More Restaurants & Bars...

    Overall: Worth A Visit

    Cannot rate, too variable

    There are hundreds of bars in this Tokyo neighborhood, where you can walk from street to street and stop into whatever bar calls to you. A few bars will have signs saying ‘no foreigners’, and that should be respected. Be mindful of Japanese customs, if a bar is silent- it generally wants to stay silent… if a bar is loud- feel free to have fun being loud as well.

    Overall: Worth A Stop

    Service: 8   Atmosphere: 7  Beverage Program: 7

    One of the few Tokyo bars that will actually let you tip, Bar Logue is a small and dark spot with good drinks and bartenders. Snacks are served at most Japanese bars, along with your drink. The snacks here are great- smoked duck and smoked Gouda with a perfect, tiny chocolate fudge piece.

    Directions- take the stairs to the 3rd floor 3F when you see the street poster for Bar Logue. 

    Overall: Worth A Stop

    Service: 7/10    Atmosphere: 7/10    Bar Program: 7/10

    A tight classic cocktail bar with an experienced bartender, the smell of cigars.

    Directions- 3F look for yellow sign with bar name and follow inside to the elevator on your right. The first thing they will ask is for a cover charge (like most Tokyo bars). Say yes then take a seat.

    Overall: Worth A Visit

    Service: 8/10     Atmosphere: GOTH   Beverage Program: 5/10

    Honestly, this is worth going to just for the story.

    Overall: Highly Recommend… if you like street food

    Cannot rate, highly variable

    Memory Lane is a famous road of many hawker-like shops within a small and charming street. We went on a Wednesday and had a great time, but imagine it would get very busy on weekends. Most shops have a small counter with an open kitchen, and barely any wiggle room. Simply find a shop you like, signal how many seats you want, and every one will slide down to make space for you (this is expected of you, too). This street is not for the faint of heart- there are cockroaches and public toilets and probably a lot of things we were lucky not to see. The locals love it though, and a tip is to look for a shop with many businessmen enjoying their meals. We would go back in a heartbeat.

    This was our favorite spot, make sure to order the tiny crunchy shrimp, and try to speak as much Japanese as you can (it is polite, and they also don’t speak English).

    Overall: Worth A Stop… if you love Irish Pubs

    Not rating

    We had a great time here, and it is a nice spot for a drink when you’e bored in Osaka. Ring the bell and you buy everyone a the bar a drink.

    Overall: Recommend

    Service: 6/10   Atmosphere: 7/10   Food: 7.5/10   Wine list: 4/10 (limited)

    This Shinjuki City Chinese restaurant is perfect if you get a little tired of sushi. We would recommend skipping the peking duck, and making sure to order the soup dumplings. There is a language barrier, but the staff is helpful and does try their best. Overall, the food is good- after all, we did go twice.

    Overall: Recommend

    Service: 7/10   Atmosphere: 6.5/10   Food: 7/10   Beverage Program: 7/10

    It may seem silly to go to a Nobu when in Japan, but after so many omakases it is truly wonderful to order sushi a la carte. This is not our favorite Nobu (which is a tie between Malibu and Cabo), but it is definitely good. And they have more sakes outside of the Nobu-only selection, which is a plus.Lunch does last call for food at 2pm and drinks at 2:30pm, you can order their dinner a la carte menu at lunch if you ask for it.

    Overall: Recommend

    Service: 6/10   Atmosphere: 6/10   Food: 9/10   Beverage Program: 3/10

    Who would have thought it took a trip to Tokyo to find one of the best pizzas we have ever had? Not kidding. The world being small, the chef-owner trained in pastry at the Culinary Institute near where we live. The pizza crust proves this. It is really, really good. This casual pizza spot is reminiscent of childhood pizza arcades, and it gets very busy, especially on weekends.

    Overall: Worth A Visit… if you’re bored and have low expectations

    Service: 9/10    Atmosphere: 3/10    Food: 6.5/10   Bar Program: 5/10

    We found this bar out of desperation on a very cold and windy day in Osaka, when not much was open. It is located on the basement, 2 floors down, and you can see the signage by a giant Monster energy drink ad sign (which should explain the atmosphere ranking). But Rudy… oh Rudy. Our entire time in Osaka was changed for the better by entering this bar. In addition to giving us great recommendations for the city (including L&L Bar), Rudy joined us in several drinks as we tried Israeli wine and ate some of the best hummus of all time.

    Overall: Recommend

    Service: 9.5/10   Atmosphere: 6.5/10   Food: 8/10   Beverage Program: NA (Sake pairing was enjoyable)

    Hosted by the kindest and most adorable sushi chef (he jokingly made us a baby maybe 3cm sushi roll when we said we were starting to get full), Sushi Minazuke offers one of our favorite omakase experiences in Japan. While the rice did lean a little vinegar-y, it was certainly the most fun omakase we’ve experienced in Japan. We did get lost trying to find it: Go to the address and you will find it on the left side, in the front of the building, on the ground floor.

    Hotels

    After watching Lost in Translation, it’s hard not to be tempted to stay at the Park Hyatt Tokyo in Shinjuku. It was a nice hotel, and the gym was lovely (the pool was really just used as a lap pool)… but it definitely felt more like a business hotel and the walkable area matched that. We probably wouldn’t stay again, mostly because the bar in the movie does not have an actual bar counter (the one you see in the movie is a communal high top). 

    We can’t imagine a better hotel in Osaka than the St. Regis. And while everything did smell a little like cigarette smoke, everything in Japan smells a little like cigarette smoke. We would definitely recommend this hotel. The bar is lovely and we enjoyed every restaurant.

    Not recommended.

    This is definitely the busiest and one of the most outdated Ritz Carltons we have stayed at. The TV had a VCR player. The piano bar was highly enjoyable.

    We stayed at the Grand Hyatt or a quick stop at the end of our time in Japan. It was fine, the check-in process was difficult, but the room was lovely and there was a lot going on. However, this part of the city (Minato) has a lot of traffic, so getting to the airport was incredibly difficult.

    We would recommend looking into the Aman Tokyo, which had a lovely bar and restaurant (Musashi). It looked to be one of the nicest hotels in Tokyo, with great quality design and security. Additionally, we did not go to the Marunouchi area, but they have several luxury hotel options and we heard good things about the area as a whole.

    Tourism & Travel Notes

    It is important to note that the train from Tokyo to Osaka requires 2 tickets. You need 1 ticket to get into the station, and a separate ticket for your actual train. We did not know how to do this and we still do not know.

    If you are a tall, large person (like us) it is important to know that there are many, many places in Japan that you simply… might not fit, literally. You will be uncomfortable. There are certain things that may not work for you (Memory Lane, many bars, some elevators, train seats, traditional kaiseki rooms…). Consider this as you plan your trip to Japan.

    There are a few things we learned about Japanese culture while we were there. It was really helpful to learn/memorize a bit of Japanese beforehand (Jess forgot her iPad and the plane had no TV’s, so she was left with her downloaded Japanese podcasts and learned en-route). Tipping can be considered offensive in many places, but almost every bartender will let you buy them a drink– and they’ll drink it with you! Stay off your phone, especially in restaurants. You must ask sushi chefs if it is okay to take a picture. Also, in high-end omakase settings, you are expected to eat every bite of sushi placed in front of you (this includes the standard pickled mackerel)- if you don’t, you might stop being served. If you do get soy sauce- dip fish first. Obviously, do not rub your chopsticks together. Also, it is very uncomfortable for many Japanese people to say no– so if you want to sneak into a bar at the Aman, for example, being slightly pushy (but respectuful) does work.

    These pronunciations are simply Jess’s way of pronouncing/hearing what is being said- they are certainly not spelled correctly or even phonetically correct- but when spoken how it is written out, it is clear.

    Hi, thank you, excuse me, (get attention)- “Domo arigato”

    Yes – hi

    No – iye

    Excuse me – Sumi ma same

    Please- oneg ay shi mas

    Thank you- arigato cosai mas (Tokyo)….. Oh kai-knee (Osaka)

    See you later- matanee

    Goodbye- sayonara

    Check- okai kay (,oneg Ay shi mas)

    Delicious!- oyshi!

    Very delicious! – metcha oyshi (apparently this is very bad Japanese though)

    That was delicious- gotso sama deshda

    2 people- ni men

    Is that okay?- ee desca?

    This please- Cordei ku da sai

    I humbly receive- Eeee te dai ke mas

    Help me- paskete kuda sai

    Bathroom? – toilewa toko desca?

    Where is ___? – ___ toko desca?

    Good morning- Ohio

    Good afternoon- konichiwa

    Good evening- kon ban wa

    Hi- Yah

    Don’t speak Japanese- no homo okari ma sang

    I don’t understand- wakari ma sang

    English?- engowo?

    I’m sorry- comen na sai

    Credit card- credito cardo… 🙂

    English menu- Engano menu

    Wi-Fi- Wi-Fiwa ari musca

    Password- passwordawo… 🙂

    I’ll take one- Sorewo kuda sai

    Non-smoking- king en

    What is this? – Correva nan desca?

    You’re welcome- doi deshi mashde

    Nice to meet you- haji me mashde

    How to eat? – tabe kata wa?

    What do you recommend? – Nani ga ossu su ne desca?

    Let’s eat- eatah dakimas

    That is delicious- totemo oishides

    Water- mizu

    Two- (g)ni

    How do you say- nan te imasco

    And/also- tO

    Glass- curasai

    Umm…- edo..

    It is here- tokorai desca

    Notable Places Visited & Not Reviewed

    TOKYO- Bar Benfiddich: It took forever to get a seat, and once we sat we were surrounded by Americans. The cocktails were standard. Shinjuku Makoto: Quality neighborhood omakase, but we were way too jetlagged to rate fairly. Spirits Bar Sunface: 10th floor directly above Benfiddich, good tequilla and rum bar but we were only there for a quick drink. Yakiniku Ikuta: Avoid. Irish Pub An Solas: Standard Irish pub. Brussels Beer Project: Nice casual gastropub next door to an Udon place that smelled amazing but the line was too long for us. Tusk: Average bar with good popcorn. Sushiya Ichiyanagi: We almost never say awful things about a place, but we have nothing but awful things to say about this place. Definitely do not go. OSAKACaptain Kangaroo: Average bar. Banjara: Decent Indian food with good poppadom, but iffy service. Bar Fort Horse: Cocktails in the subway station, not bad.

    favorite moments