Japan is a world of it’s own and a must-see for any sushi-living globe trotter. Some of the best bars in Japan are in Osaka- including a favorite Bar Nayuta. And you might be surprised to learn the bar in Lost in Translation is not actually a physical bar, but a communal table at the Park Hyatt. We think the best tempura is at Tsunahachi in Shinjuku, Tokyo. And our biggest piece of advice is to learn a little Japanese before you go (Jess’s useful Japanese essentials are listed below).
Traveling around Asia? Check out our complete Singapore Guide.
Don’t know what to pack? Here’s Jess’s Packing List.
Top Restaurants
Overall: Highly Recommend
Service: 9.5/10 Atmosphere: 10/10 Food: 9/10 Beverage Program: NA (Sommelier pairing was very good)
Located on a high floor of the St. Regis Osaka, and overlooking the city below, this dining experience takes Teppanyaki to the next level. In semi-private to private dining rooms, you have a personal chef preparing delicious bites- ranging from cold appetizers to grilled meats and vegetables- on a mini-kitchen in front of you. Truly, if you want a fine-dining experience with good food- this is our top recommendation in all of Japan. (Jess isn’t the biggest steak person, and she ate every bite of her wagyu). We did the basic set menu with the sommelier pairing. It really doesn’t get much better than this.
Overall: Highly Recommend
Service: 8.5/10 Atmosphere: 7/10 Food: 9/10 Beverage Program: 8/10
This was our favorite omakase in Japan. Master Chef Musashi takes great pride in his fish and seaweed quality, but especially cares about his rice (he beamed with pride when Jess mentioned she liked the texture). It turns out, he is famous for growing the rice himself. There was also a delicious eel hand roll that we are not sure we will ever forget. This quiet sushi bar is located in the highly luxurious Aman hotel (they only let hotel guests in, so if your reservation is at 7pm… you get let in at 7pm… however, if you simply ‘pretend’ that it is earlier, you sneak in and have a drink at their stunning bar beforehand).
Tsunahachi in Shinjuku Tempura (Tokyo)
Overall: Highly Recommend
Service: 8/10 Atmosphere: 7.5/10 Food: 9/10 Beverage: 2/10
This walk-in only tempura spot was recommended to us by our hotel concierge as the ‘number 1 must-eat’. Two reasons we almost didn’t go: We don’t love the idea of fried food for a whole meal, and we are definitely not line people. But at the high recommendation, we decided to give it a try. We arrived in line before their 11am opening for lunch, which we recommend doing (the wait can be very long), and we were in the first seating. This was the best tempura we have had in our lives, and it was so light that we felt great afterwards. We did not feel that gross fried-food feeling, and I think that is a testament to the chefs (which you can watch from the counter) and their centuries-old recipes. Do not order the one burgundy- stick to sake.
Oryori Hayashi Kaiseki (Kyoto)
Overall: Highly Recommend
Service: 9.5/10 Atmosphere: 8.5/10 Food: 9/10 Beverage: NA
This Kaiseki traditional lunch in Kyoto was so incredible that it’s hard to put into words. If we were in charge of giving Michelin stars away, we would certainly give this place 2. Tucked into a tiny building that feels more like a house, we were sat in a tiny room upstairs where you sit on cushions on the floor and drop your feet into a lowered section under the table. This is a multi-course sensory experience containing small bites of both raw and cooked traditional Japanese dishes. Fun fact: Gio was not a big uni fan before this, but the uni dish changed him. It is (and will probably forever be) the best uni either of us have ever had in our lives.
This is the only restaurant we visited in Kyoto. We hired a driver in Osaka and it took about one hour to get to Kyoto (be careful with your timing, however, with traffic it took us much longer to get back).
Top Bars
Overall: Highly Recommend
Service: 9.5/10 Atmosphere: 8.5/10 Bar Program: 9/10
This no-reservations bar is run by a creative/grungy Osakan with an Australian accent, and it is great. A bit difficult to find, it is best to search for the logo from their instagram and go from there, before tucking under a short door (an old Japanese bar tradition to keep people’s swords out of bars). There is no menu. The bartender listens to what you like a creates an herbal concoction of your dreams. It is like stepping into an apothecary and leaving happily tipsy. Make sure to buy him a drink (which is very common in Japan!)
Overall: Recommend
Service: 9/10 Atmosphere: 6/10 Bar Program: 5/10
We watched the World Cup here (and visited at least 2 other times because we loved it so much). This casual bar has the best service and no one ever seems to like sitting at the actual bar (many large groups sit at tables)- so we got two bar seats every night. This is a super popular local place, and the service is great- we still follow some of the bartenders on Instagram.
Overall: Recommend
Service: 8/10 Atmosphere: 8/10 Food: 6/10 (fish cakes are a 9) Bar Program: 8.5/10
This basement-level bar in the Minato City area of Tokyo is incredibly charming. The bartender is a kind older gentleman who takes great care and caution with each of his cocktails, and his wife cooks up delicious bites in the back kitchen. We went two nights in a row.
Overall: Recommend
Service: 8/10 Atmosphere: 7/10 Bar Program: 8/10
This sister bar of the famous Benfiddich, which we were not fans of (exclusively for tourists). This bar has more locals, and an Irish-theme, which we enjoy. We visited during the winter, so the Irish music in this comfortable spot felt right. There is no menu, but there are English speaking bartenders. They have hard to find spirits we love such as Silent Pool and Martin Millers (our favorite!)
More Restaurants & Bars...
Overall: Worth A Visit
Cannot rate, too variable
There are hundreds of bars in this Tokyo neighborhood, where you can walk from street to street and stop into whatever bar calls to you. A few bars will have signs saying ‘no foreigners’, and that should be respected. Be mindful of Japanese customs, if a bar is silent- it generally wants to stay silent… if a bar is loud- feel free to have fun being loud as well.
Overall: Worth A Stop
Service: 8 Atmosphere: 7 Beverage Program: 7
One of the few Tokyo bars that will actually let you tip, Bar Logue is a small and dark spot with good drinks and bartenders. Snacks are served at most Japanese bars, along with your drink. The snacks here are great- smoked duck and smoked Gouda with a perfect, tiny chocolate fudge piece.
Directions- take the stairs to the 3rd floor 3F when you see the street poster for Bar Logue.
Overall: Worth A Stop
Service: 7/10 Atmosphere: 7/10 Bar Program: 7/10
A tight classic cocktail bar with an experienced bartender, the smell of cigars.
Directions- 3F look for yellow sign with bar name and follow inside to the elevator on your right. The first thing they will ask is for a cover charge (like most Tokyo bars). Say yes then take a seat.
Overall: Worth A Visit
Service: 8/10 Atmosphere: GOTH Beverage Program: 5/10
Honestly, this is worth going to just for the story.
Overall: Highly Recommend… if you like street food
Cannot rate, highly variable
Memory Lane is a famous road of many hawker-like shops within a small and charming street. We went on a Wednesday and had a great time, but imagine it would get very busy on weekends. Most shops have a small counter with an open kitchen, and barely any wiggle room. Simply find a shop you like, signal how many seats you want, and every one will slide down to make space for you (this is expected of you, too). This street is not for the faint of heart- there are cockroaches and public toilets and probably a lot of things we were lucky not to see. The locals love it though, and a tip is to look for a shop with many businessmen enjoying their meals. We would go back in a heartbeat.
This was our favorite spot, make sure to order the tiny crunchy shrimp, and try to speak as much Japanese as you can (it is polite, and they also don’t speak English).
Overall: Worth A Stop… if you love Irish Pubs
Not rating
We had a great time here, and it is a nice spot for a drink when you’e bored in Osaka. Ring the bell and you buy everyone a the bar a drink.
Overall: Recommend
Service: 6/10 Atmosphere: 7/10 Food: 7.5/10 Wine list: 4/10 (limited)
This Shinjuki City Chinese restaurant is perfect if you get a little tired of sushi. We would recommend skipping the peking duck, and making sure to order the soup dumplings. There is a language barrier, but the staff is helpful and does try their best. Overall, the food is good- after all, we did go twice.
Overall: Recommend
Service: 7/10 Atmosphere: 6.5/10 Food: 7/10 Beverage Program: 7/10
It may seem silly to go to a Nobu when in Japan, but after so many omakases it is truly wonderful to order sushi a la carte. This is not our favorite Nobu (which is a tie between Malibu and Cabo), but it is definitely good. And they have more sakes outside of the Nobu-only selection, which is a plus.Lunch does last call for food at 2pm and drinks at 2:30pm, you can order their dinner a la carte menu at lunch if you ask for it.
Overall: Recommend
Service: 6/10 Atmosphere: 6/10 Food: 9/10 Beverage Program: 3/10
Who would have thought it took a trip to Tokyo to find one of the best pizzas we have ever had? Not kidding. The world being small, the chef-owner trained in pastry at the Culinary Institute near where we live. The pizza crust proves this. It is really, really good. This casual pizza spot is reminiscent of childhood pizza arcades, and it gets very busy, especially on weekends.
Overall: Worth A Visit… if you’re bored and have low expectations
Service: 9/10 Atmosphere: 3/10 Food: 6.5/10 Bar Program: 5/10
We found this bar out of desperation on a very cold and windy day in Osaka, when not much was open. It is located on the basement, 2 floors down, and you can see the signage by a giant Monster energy drink ad sign (which should explain the atmosphere ranking). But Rudy… oh Rudy. Our entire time in Osaka was changed for the better by entering this bar. In addition to giving us great recommendations for the city (including L&L Bar), Rudy joined us in several drinks as we tried Israeli wine and ate some of the best hummus of all time.
Overall: Recommend
Service: 9.5/10 Atmosphere: 6.5/10 Food: 8/10 Beverage Program: NA (Sake pairing was enjoyable)
Hosted by the kindest and most adorable sushi chef (he jokingly made us a baby maybe 3cm sushi roll when we said we were starting to get full), Sushi Minazuke offers one of our favorite omakase experiences in Japan. While the rice did lean a little vinegar-y, it was certainly the most fun omakase we’ve experienced in Japan. We did get lost trying to find it: Go to the address and you will find it on the left side, in the front of the building, on the ground floor.
Hotels
After watching Lost in Translation, it’s hard not to be tempted to stay at the Park Hyatt Tokyo in Shinjuku. It was a nice hotel, and the gym was lovely (the pool was really just used as a lap pool)… but it definitely felt more like a business hotel and the walkable area matched that. We probably wouldn’t stay again, mostly because the bar in the movie does not have an actual bar counter (the one you see in the movie is a communal high top).
We can’t imagine a better hotel in Osaka than the St. Regis. And while everything did smell a little like cigarette smoke, everything in Japan smells a little like cigarette smoke. We would definitely recommend this hotel. The bar is lovely and we enjoyed every restaurant.
Not recommended.
This is definitely the busiest and one of the most outdated Ritz Carltons we have stayed at. The TV had a VCR player. The piano bar was highly enjoyable.
We stayed at the Grand Hyatt or a quick stop at the end of our time in Japan. It was fine, the check-in process was difficult, but the room was lovely and there was a lot going on. However, this part of the city (Minato) has a lot of traffic, so getting to the airport was incredibly difficult.
We would recommend looking into the Aman Tokyo, which had a lovely bar and restaurant (Musashi). It looked to be one of the nicest hotels in Tokyo, with great quality design and security. Additionally, we did not go to the Marunouchi area, but they have several luxury hotel options and we heard good things about the area as a whole.
Tourism & Travel Notes
It is important to note that the train from Tokyo to Osaka requires 2 tickets. You need 1 ticket to get into the station, and a separate ticket for your actual train. We did not know how to do this and we still do not know.
If you are a tall, large person (like us) it is important to know that there are many, many places in Japan that you simply… might not fit, literally. You will be uncomfortable. There are certain things that may not work for you (Memory Lane, many bars, some elevators, train seats, traditional kaiseki rooms…). Consider this as you plan your trip to Japan.
There are a few things we learned about Japanese culture while we were there. It was really helpful to learn/memorize a bit of Japanese beforehand (Jess forgot her iPad and the plane had no TV’s, so she was left with her downloaded Japanese podcasts and learned en-route). Tipping can be considered offensive in many places, but almost every bartender will let you buy them a drink– and they’ll drink it with you! Stay off your phone, especially in restaurants. You must ask sushi chefs if it is okay to take a picture. Also, in high-end omakase settings, you are expected to eat every bite of sushi placed in front of you (this includes the standard pickled mackerel)- if you don’t, you might stop being served. If you do get soy sauce- dip fish first. Obviously, do not rub your chopsticks together. Also, it is very uncomfortable for many Japanese people to say no– so if you want to sneak into a bar at the Aman, for example, being slightly pushy (but respectuful) does work.
These pronunciations are simply Jess’s way of pronouncing/hearing what is being said- they are certainly not spelled correctly or even phonetically correct- but when spoken how it is written out, it is clear.
Hi, thank you, excuse me, (get attention)- “Domo arigato”
Yes – hi
No – iye
Excuse me – Sumi ma same
Please- oneg ay shi mas
Thank you- arigato cosai mas (Tokyo)….. Oh kai-knee (Osaka)
See you later- matanee
Goodbye- sayonara
Check- okai kay (,oneg Ay shi mas)
Delicious!- oyshi!
Very delicious! – metcha oyshi (apparently this is very bad Japanese though)
That was delicious- gotso sama deshda
2 people- ni men
Is that okay?- ee desca?
This please- Cordei ku da sai
I humbly receive- Eeee te dai ke mas
Help me- paskete kuda sai
Bathroom? – toilewa toko desca?
Where is ___? – ___ toko desca?
Good morning- Ohio
Good afternoon- konichiwa
Good evening- kon ban wa
Hi- Yah
Don’t speak Japanese- no homo okari ma sang
I don’t understand- wakari ma sang
English?- engowo?
I’m sorry- comen na sai
Credit card- credito cardo… 🙂
English menu- Engano menu
Wi-Fi- Wi-Fiwa ari musca
Password- passwordawo… 🙂
I’ll take one- Sorewo kuda sai
Non-smoking- king en
What is this? – Correva nan desca?
You’re welcome- doi deshi mashde
Nice to meet you- haji me mashde
How to eat? – tabe kata wa?
What do you recommend? – Nani ga ossu su ne desca?
Let’s eat- eatah dakimas
That is delicious- totemo oishides
Water- mizu
Two- (g)ni
How do you say- nan te imasco
And/also- tO
Glass- curasai
Umm…- edo..
It is here- tokorai desca
Notable Places Visited & Not Reviewed
TOKYO- Bar Benfiddich: It took forever to get a seat, and once we sat we were surrounded by Americans. The cocktails were standard. Shinjuku Makoto: Quality neighborhood omakase, but we were way too jetlagged to rate fairly. Spirits Bar Sunface: 10th floor directly above Benfiddich, good tequilla and rum bar but we were only there for a quick drink. Yakiniku Ikuta: Avoid. Irish Pub An Solas: Standard Irish pub. Brussels Beer Project: Nice casual gastropub next door to an Udon place that smelled amazing but the line was too long for us. Tusk: Average bar with good popcorn. Sushiya Ichiyanagi: We almost never say awful things about a place, but we have nothing but awful things to say about this place. Definitely do not go. OSAKA– Captain Kangaroo: Average bar. Banjara: Decent Indian food with good poppadom, but iffy service. Bar Fort Horse: Cocktails in the subway station, not bad.
favorite moments
